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Posts posted by 69datsun510

  1. Wayno, I got the same email.  I haven't uploaded any pics in a while.  I did recently go on PB and deleted all but ones I remembered posting on this forum.  I've only posted on here, and a few other forums I don't go on anymore,  using PB.  So, I'm pissed because some of my pics on here, I want to remain on this forum, they are informational on some of my threads or comments.  Pictures in a "How to" topic, are important to understand what your are trying to convey.  So, after I did delete most of my pics on PB, I have them on hardrives, I received another email about being over the bandwidth!  So, looks like all my threads and post with pics from PB will be blurred, cause I'm not paying PB!  I'm not going through the hassle of another pic hosting site, modifying all threads with the new hosting site etc.  Just to much computer crap for me, rather been driving in my car, spearing, sailing, skiing, or kicking back!

  2. On 5/20/2019 at 6:30 PM, EWD said:

    I took off the front bumper and put the passenger seat back in after completing 3pt seat belt install for it. Definitely prefer this setup without the bumper although I feel a lip or air dam is in my future.



    FYI, don't give the cops a reason to be able to stop you while out cruising local hang outs etc.  Federal required bumpers in 1973 production years, you made it under the 1973 federally. However, most states have a front and rear bumper requirement, I know California does Div 12 Article 11.5 Bumpers 28070-28071.

    Since I can't tell from your member info and no front plate, what state you are from.  I'm assuming California or Arizona with all the Palm trees in the background.  If California, also required to have a front plate, Arizona does not.

    Can you drive without a front bumper, rear bumper, no driver side mirror, no review mirror, and tinted windows forward of the driver, sure, plenty do.  But, don't be crying when you get pulled over, get a ticket and told you have to put the original manufactured bumper on. And no, the carbon fiber or fiberglass reproduction ones won't do, by law.  You would stand a better chance of not getting stopped if you had the fiberglass ones on and painted.  Plus in California you get to mount the ugly front license plate to it! or not, as many do.


    Love the rims by the way!

    • Like 1

  3. On 3/18/2019 at 2:22 PM, yenpit said:

    Yes, the original "captive nut" is up a little higher into the headliner......too high for my liking.


    What year is your 510?  I think the NON adjustable/rigid shoulder harnesses came out 70-71, but iirc the 68-69 DID have that "captive nut" in place for other Euro market requirements.  I think the retractable belts came out 72-73......??


    How tall are you?  Reason I ask is that the factory "captive nut" is really high up & causes the shoulder harness to ride up your neck, especially if you are taller & have the seat moved back.  I'm shorter & it even bothered me!  We welded another captive nut LOWER on the B-pillar & installed aftermarket retractable belts.  Lowering the mounting point brought the shoulder belt down, which made it much more comfortable!  It's my buddy's car, but I see it most weekends.  If you want some pics, send me your EMAIL or TEXT.............pain to post pics on Ratsun! 


    I also have a parts car right now with the headliner removed, can send a pic or two of the factory captive nut location via EMAIL or TEXT.







    The "Datsport", 3 point retractable seat belt set up, solves the belt hitting you across the neck.  They have pics of the installation, uses the standard bolt locations, plus a few extra holes has to be drilled.  Below is one of the pics with the top bolt location, this pic is on a 4 door. I don't recall, if the location is different for the 2 door, and my 2 door is at the A/C shop.  So, im not able to reference the location on the 2 door is the same or not.  Just thought I'd throw out another solution for you.  

    belt full length

  4. Ordered Motul 90PA for my R160 limited slip differential, split collars for my rear sway bar, picked up my rebuilt brake booster, and got my Whitline mustache bar bushings. Getting there! To the A/C shop on Monday to get the A/C hooked up and working, that's right, Air Conditioning ❄️❄️


    • Like 5

  5. 5 hours ago, edekalil said:

    That is or those art some very fine builds, I may have to write you for some advise on things when I get to my 2 door that's all apart. Simply beautiful.

    Thanks for your appreciation of my projects and work.  Just PM me if you have any questions on you build. 😎 

    • Like 1

  6. 8 hours ago, Draker said:

    I can see the pictures and they look good! Looks like you are pretty close to on the road. Been a long journey that's for sure.


    Thanks for coming back and updating this thread!

    Never quit!!  Just have to persevere and keep saving money to put in the restoration 💲💲💲😬

  7. 2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

    I can't see any of the pictures....

    Hmmmm, can you see the other pics posted?


    Photobucket for all of my pics, and i'm able to see them all, old and recent.  I did have to use the URL for direct link option on Phototbucket, to be excepted by this website, when choosing the "insert other media" tab.


    Browser setting? Anti virus program?  I'm not enough of a tech to help out with the problem or if its just specific to you.  I do get the watermark, "proudly hosted on photobucket" on the pics. 



  8. Finally have gotten back on my project car!!  Hoping to have on the road in a month, whoooo!!  So, I thought I'd get on the forum and update some pictures of my build, with more to come soon!!


    1/2 shafts converted to CV joints and added the sway bar (green).  This pic I didn't have the rear coil overs installed yet.




    280ZX Front Wilwood calipers and bigger rotors ?



    S13 240SX rear disc conversion and Troy Irmish rear coilovers?



    This is the engine bay from sometime ago, much further along then this picture



    • Like 4

  9. Doh, guess I'm tired and not seeing straight ?

    I stand corrected on that last comment I made!  Guys just need to run bump stop spacers when lowering their cars as extreme as most do, even if no interference issues.  The car needs to have the correct geometry to be safe and as designed, but each to their own.  We got old from living through doing stupid stuff and risking the possibility bodily injury or death, so can they. 




    In this photo, you'll have the most extreme articulation of the suspension with the car jacked up and no load on the suspension.  This will give you the smallest angle between the control arm/tie rod end and the strut assembly, putting the tie rod nut and caliper mounting bolt the closest during the suspension travel.  You really need to look at the relation of the two with the tire on the ground and not jacked up.  Looks like you need a 1" bump stop spacer ?‍♂️ or new brake pads.

  11. I haven't been on for sometime, and saw this post.  I'm sure you figured this out by now, my post is for future members using the search function on the topic.


    So, just thought I'd add to the thread and my experience with 280ZX strut conversion.  The 280ZX strut assemblies are lower then  the stock 510 struts, and why they are used.  They lower the car without taking up suspension strut travel, car rides lower, but you still have suspension travel, one of the reasons for the upgrade, along with the bigger brakes.  Since the set up is already lower the stock 510, the steering geometry will change, tie rods won't be level, as datzenmike has suggested.  Further, most owners lower some more because of having coil overs, and that, "lowered race look".  On 2 of the 3, of my 510's, I did the 280ZX struts, coil overs, and the 1" bump stop spacer, installed all at the same time, hadn't had any issues with clearances.


    While its each to his own, I just don't like seeing the front calipers not in a trailing position. You wont have to spend the $ change up the brake line and hoses.  Your steering will be in the position designed to take the loads, level tie rods, an important safety concern at high cornering speeds and bumps.  Just the brake hose and line modification can cost more then the bump stop spacers, and also have the cost of replacing pads more often.  Hope you are driving down the road safely in your dime.

  12. Thanks everyone for positive comments supporting the person was a jerk.


    Unfortunately, I made myself a mark by not having another person along to help me sell, giving the person the window of opportunity.  I wanted to share the incident with the community to help others, to prevent others from becoming a victim.  Just be aware when selling, our parts are just getting more rare and expensive as the years go by, their not Ford's or Chevy's with unlimited reproduction parts.


    See ya on the road



    • Like 2

  13. So, I had a guy ask me if I would sell just one 1/4 window, told him no, sold as sets.  I guess he didn't like my answer, waited until I was distracted by other potenial buyers, then walked off with the one 1/4 window he was wanting.  Stealing from me, a guy who sells items well below most sell things for, because I want to support our community of guys building a 510.  Your a total dirt bag!

    Your also not the most intelligent individual because most likely you won't be able to use the 1/4 window you stole, it was a factory tinted version, not many cars have these windows.  If you do use it, and bring your car to any of the SoCal meets, I'll be able to identify you.  Your car will stand out with all clear windows and a Passenger side factory tinted 1/4 window. :rofl:  :rofl:


    On a better note, I hadn't been to a Eagle Rock meet in around 6 years, sold parts back then because I was moving and didn't have much room for parts at the new place.  A young guy remembered me and some the etched windows I had.  He tried to buy them back then, I wasn't partial to parting with them, I was still on the fence about using them myself.  He reminded me of the time he meet me and still wanted the windows.  We came to an agreement on a price and he got his 1/4 windows he had wanted for years.  I was genuinely happy for the guy, almost gave them to him at the price, but that's what makes it right, a younger generation supporting our Datsun community, it's what I'm about.  I enjoyed selling my stuff, seeing people enthusiastic about getting parts for their builds.  Sadly, I most likely won't be selling again, sold all of my spare parts.  Now I will be showing up with my 510. :thumbup:



    • Like 5

  14. If there is a member out there who knows the size and length of the screws, 2 per frame, for the "L" bracket to body?  Star washer or flat washer and lock washer?
    The 4 screw sizes and length for the screws used to secure the frame, at the two hinges, to the body?  Marks on hinge appear to indicate, flat washer and lock washer?
    I currently don't have access to my car to check these screws.  I'm guessing M4- .7 for size, and maybe 10mm on length.  Would be great to have the complete hardware list.
    Top view pic of the "L" bracket (parts in the upper right corner)


    Pic of hinges that attaches to the body where the 4 screw are located



  15. I thought I'd put all the information on the 510 1/4 windows that I have learned while doing 3 car builds.  I'm hoping to cover, types of screws used, where to buy them, replacement rubber, or reconditioning original, and pics to help with the information.  I'm just a backyard wrencher, so remember there are many ways to skin a rabbit, I made the effort to do the write up to help others.  So, be kind with your input, Thanks

    First the glass, some of you may or may not know, the glass came as no tint in the earlier year productions, and factory tinted in the newer models, same with the rear window.  Below is the two versions side by side


    Next would be choice of window condition and what to do with each. There are 1/4 windows in decent condition as far as the frame to glass rubber goes.  If the rubber isn't hard and cracking, may be just hard and a rough texture, not much rust or corrosion on the frame, you can disassemble the frame, and save the rubber.  So, you can try to dissemble the frame carefully, patiently, and delicately as possible. I use 303 protectant to lube between the glass and rubber as I work the glass around.  This keeps the glass from sticking back to the rubber. Take your time, be careful with the rubber at each corner, this is where the rubber likes to tear or break.  It's not the worst, you can always glue the ends back to reassemble, if the rubber is worth saving.  I have taken some apart with a corroded frame, hard, cracked rubber, and pretty much all falls apart and only the glass is usable.  So, at least get frames with no corrosion or very little, the less the better.


    Below is a set of 1/4 windows that would be a good to rebuild with the original frame to glass rubber.


    So, now we have our windows selected. Tools and materials I like to use for the job:
    1/4 inch drive ratchet with Philip head tip
    Philip head screw driver
    Small regular blade screw driver
    Thread locker- Blue
    303 Protectant- my preference for UV and preserving plastic, rubber, wood, etc, around longer then Armerol.  303 was originally made and used by the aerospace industry as a spec item to treat rubber and plastics 
    Screws QTY 7 per frame, 14 for set, Stainless steel (18-8) Philp Pan M4-.7 x 6mm long with star washers attached sourced from McMaster Carr or other hardware supplier, ACE Hardware stores have a good supply of stainless screws and metric.
    Screws QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, Stainless steel Philp Pan M4-7 x 8 to 10 mm long
    Flat washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, #8 ( American) stainless steel or M4 metric
    Lock washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set #8 (American) stainless steel or M4 metric
    Tap M4-.7 and tap holder
    Tap oil or other light oil for tracing threads
    Outer frame to body rubber QTY 2 per set

    To start, you'll need to remove the frame to body rubber. The rubber seems to be glue to the frame, sometimes its even stuck from rust of the frame.  I use the small screw driver to help scrape the rubber and glue off the frame, pulling on the rubber as I go.  I haven't found a way to remove this rubber without destroying it and needs to be removes to take the frame apart.
    Rubber off, there are 4 screws, two at each end, on top and bottom of the vertical piece of the frame.  They can be tough or impossible to remove.  I use my 1/4 drive ratchet and Philip screw tip to help get leverage.  Worst case, you have to drill off the screw head, ONLY the head, leave the thread portion of the screw, don't want to ruin the threads.  You can use vise grips to remove the thread. Worst case, carefully drill out the screw thread, make sure to have a small enough drill to not remove the eternal threads.  Then use the tap to finish up the internal threads.
    Pic of the screws to remove on the frame


    Once all the screws are out, remove the vertical piece. I mark each end on the vertical piece and frame with a center punch, one punch to one punch, other end two punch to two punch. On the other frame mark with 3 to 3 and 4 to 4. So, if you have the frame pieces chromed or powder coated, you can always see the marks.  Make sure to make the marks deep enough if powder coating.  If you have them parts chromed or powder coated, use the tap to clean up the threads after.
    Now you can remove the glass.  My most successful way has been to remove the glass and leave the rubber in the frame.  You have to bend open the ends of the frame and wiggle the glass loose from the rubber.  Be careful, with the rubber at the corners.  I usually slip the rubber off the glass at that end, be patient and eventually the glass will come out.
    Then carefully remove the rubber from the frame.
    Then remove the 3 screws from the window bracket.
    I use warm soap, nylon stiff brush, to clean the old rubber.  If you don't want to use the frame to glass rubber, I recommend buying "Datsport", 1/4 window rubbers and frame to body rubber too.  They are both one piece and fit excellent.  They are made by a local plant in Australia, are of top quality, and fit like OEM.  I bought all the rubber for my car from them.  Yes more expensive and shipping to USA, etc, but you won't get the fit and quality from any world supplier I know of. Hey, your ride, I just don't want to spend years building my car, loads of money, and try to cut cost on parts that see tons of wear and UV damage. Who wants the rubber cracking on windows that are a bitch to remove and install.
    Reverse the procedure
    Stainless Screws should be lubricated to get the proper seating of the thread and combat galling.  So, while the screw has a star washer to keep from losing, I use blue thread locker to lubricate the threads, seal the threads from corroding, and makes for easier removal down the road.
    The Frame Screws: The reason there are 6mm and 10mm screw is the length makes a difference with the 7 in the frame.  Even with OEM rubber the screw go through and start to in coach where the glass edge will be, making it difficult to get the frame pieces to match up.  All of the screws I have removed, measured 6mm, and had star washers separate.  Since you need to buy stainless, to battle corrosion, you can buy screws with the star washers captive on the screw for almost the same price.  Will save you the headache of putting each one on, keeping it on, while installing the screw. My big, clumsy, fingers, and tiny parts aren't easy for me or in the area of the frame.  You can just buy the screws, and buy American #8 star washers.  You may be able to buy the screws and washers at a local Ace Hardware, not HD or Lowe's.  I couldn't seem to find them, so bought mine at McMaster-Carr, with the star washers already on them.
    Here is the window bracket with the screws installed. You can see they protrude some what towards the glass edge channel.  Therefore, length is important.

    Apply several applications of the 303 protectant before installing the glass in the frame.  Use plenty while installing the glass and rubber in the frame.  I like to put the rubber on the glass, then rubber and glass in the frame.  Can be tricky around the window bracket.  Sometimes its different methods to get them in.
    The 2 screws 8-10mm long screws, flat washers, and lock washers go on the body to latch bracket, use thread locker here too.
    OEM Bulkhead latch assemblies L and R

    Here is a look at how the spring goes on the latch


    When installing the frame to body rubber on to the frame, rubber is not symmetrical, and should be installed as below in the small channel spot welded to the frame.  Use a small amount of glue for rubber weather stripping.  Be careful on the type of glue, some attach rubber.


    I don't remember the size and length of the 2 screws to secure the bulkhead bracket to body(" L" shaped bracket) or the 4 screws securing the frame to the body.  I'm guessing M4-.7 x 10 mm long with flat washers and lock washers?  My car is a ways away at a buddy's for some wiring, not a fan of electrical.


    Thanks for reading this length post if you made it this far!!  I hope this helps with your build!!


    • Like 2
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