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About 69datsun510

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    Advanced Member

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    Brea, Ca
  • Cars
    1969 2 door

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  1. There can always find ways to ease the sting, with a little humor, except life moves on, and laugh when you can. Glad you picked up on that, pretty sharp of ya :rofl: :rofl: :thumbup:
  2. Thanks everyone for positive comments supporting the person was a jerk. Unfortunately, I made myself a mark by not having another person along to help me sell, giving the person the window of opportunity. I wanted to share the incident with the community to help others, to prevent others from becoming a victim. Just be aware when selling, our parts are just getting more rare and expensive as the years go by, their not Ford's or Chevy's with unlimited reproduction parts. See ya on the road :thumbup:
  3. You do live in AZ and might be more popular in a sunshine inferno climate or your 90% stack of 1/4 windows, has left 10% for the rest of us, making them more rare for us. :rofl: :rofl:
  4. 69datsun510


    I had a good time at the meet, except for the dirt bag who stole my passenger side 1/4 window! Here is the whole story http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71681-to-the-stupid-dirt-bag-who-stole-my-passenger-side-14-window-at-the-eagle-rock-show/ I would like to thank the510keeper for paying and collecting the parts as we had agreed on, stand up guy and builder. :thumbup:
  5. So, I had a guy ask me if I would sell just one 1/4 window, told him no, sold as sets. I guess he didn't like my answer, waited until I was distracted by other potenial buyers, then walked off with the one 1/4 window he was wanting. Stealing from me, a guy who sells items well below most sell things for, because I want to support our community of guys building a 510. Your a total dirt bag! Your also not the most intelligent individual because most likely you won't be able to use the 1/4 window you stole, it was a factory tinted version, not many cars have these windows. If you do use it, and bring your car to any of the SoCal meets, I'll be able to identify you. Your car will stand out with all clear windows and a Passenger side factory tinted 1/4 window. :rofl: :rofl: On a better note, I hadn't been to a Eagle Rock meet in around 6 years, sold parts back then because I was moving and didn't have much room for parts at the new place. A young guy remembered me and some the etched windows I had. He tried to buy them back then, I wasn't partial to parting with them, I was still on the fence about using them myself. He reminded me of the time he meet me and still wanted the windows. We came to an agreement on a price and he got his 1/4 windows he had wanted for years. I was genuinely happy for the guy, almost gave them to him at the price, but that's what makes it right, a younger generation supporting our Datsun community, it's what I'm about. I enjoyed selling my stuff, seeing people enthusiastic about getting parts for their builds. Sadly, I most likely won't be selling again, sold all of my spare parts. Now I will be showing up with my 510. :thumbup:
  6. 69datsun510

    What to know and how to Rebuild 510 quarter windows 1/4 window

    Thanks for the recognition! :thumbup:
  7. 69datsun510

    What to know and how to Rebuild 510 quarter windows 1/4 window

    If there is a member out there who knows the size and length of the screws, 2 per frame, for the "L" bracket to body? Star washer or flat washer and lock washer? The 4 screw sizes and length for the screws used to secure the frame, at the two hinges, to the body? Marks on hinge appear to indicate, flat washer and lock washer? I currently don't have access to my car to check these screws. I'm guessing M4- .7 for size, and maybe 10mm on length. Would be great to have the complete hardware list. Top view pic of the "L" bracket (parts in the upper right corner) Pic of hinges that attaches to the body where the 4 screw are located Thanks
  8. I thought I'd put all the information on the 510 1/4 windows that I have learned while doing 3 car builds. I'm hoping to cover, types of screws used, where to buy them, replacement rubber, or reconditioning original, and pics to help with the information. I'm just a backyard wrencher, so remember there are many ways to skin a rabbit, I made the effort to do the write up to help others. So, be kind with your input, Thanks First the glass, some of you may or may not know, the glass came as no tint in the earlier year productions, and factory tinted in the newer models, same with the rear window. Below is the two versions side by side Next would be choice of window condition and what to do with each. There are 1/4 windows in decent condition as far as the frame to glass rubber goes. If the rubber isn't hard and cracking, may be just hard and a rough texture, not much rust or corrosion on the frame, you can disassemble the frame, and save the rubber. So, you can try to dissemble the frame carefully, patiently, and delicately as possible. I use 303 protectant to lube between the glass and rubber as I work the glass around. This keeps the glass from sticking back to the rubber. Take your time, be careful with the rubber at each corner, this is where the rubber likes to tear or break. It's not the worst, you can always glue the ends back to reassemble, if the rubber is worth saving. I have taken some apart with a corroded frame, hard, cracked rubber, and pretty much all falls apart and only the glass is usable. So, at least get frames with no corrosion or very little, the less the better. Below is a set of 1/4 windows that would be a good to rebuild with the original frame to glass rubber. So, now we have our windows selected. Tools and materials I like to use for the job: 1/4 inch drive ratchet with Philip head tip Philip head screw driver Small regular blade screw driver Thread locker- Blue 303 Protectant- my preference for UV and preserving plastic, rubber, wood, etc, around longer then Armerol. 303 was originally made and used by the aerospace industry as a spec item to treat rubber and plastics Screws QTY 7 per frame, 14 for set, Stainless steel (18-8) Philp Pan M4-.7 x 6mm long with star washers attached sourced from McMaster Carr or other hardware supplier, ACE Hardware stores have a good supply of stainless screws and metric. Screws QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, Stainless steel Philp Pan M4-7 x 8 to 10 mm long Flat washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, #8 ( American) stainless steel or M4 metric Lock washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set #8 (American) stainless steel or M4 metric Tap M4-.7 and tap holder Tap oil or other light oil for tracing threads Outer frame to body rubber QTY 2 per set DISASSEMBLY: To start, you'll need to remove the frame to body rubber. The rubber seems to be glue to the frame, sometimes its even stuck from rust of the frame. I use the small screw driver to help scrape the rubber and glue off the frame, pulling on the rubber as I go. I haven't found a way to remove this rubber without destroying it and needs to be removes to take the frame apart. Rubber off, there are 4 screws, two at each end, on top and bottom of the vertical piece of the frame. They can be tough or impossible to remove. I use my 1/4 drive ratchet and Philip screw tip to help get leverage. Worst case, you have to drill off the screw head, ONLY the head, leave the thread portion of the screw, don't want to ruin the threads. You can use vise grips to remove the thread. Worst case, carefully drill out the screw thread, make sure to have a small enough drill to not remove the eternal threads. Then use the tap to finish up the internal threads. Pic of the screws to remove on the frame Once all the screws are out, remove the vertical piece. I mark each end on the vertical piece and frame with a center punch, one punch to one punch, other end two punch to two punch. On the other frame mark with 3 to 3 and 4 to 4. So, if you have the frame pieces chromed or powder coated, you can always see the marks. Make sure to make the marks deep enough if powder coating. If you have them parts chromed or powder coated, use the tap to clean up the threads after. Now you can remove the glass. My most successful way has been to remove the glass and leave the rubber in the frame. You have to bend open the ends of the frame and wiggle the glass loose from the rubber. Be careful, with the rubber at the corners. I usually slip the rubber off the glass at that end, be patient and eventually the glass will come out. Then carefully remove the rubber from the frame. Then remove the 3 screws from the window bracket. I use warm soap, nylon stiff brush, to clean the old rubber. If you don't want to use the frame to glass rubber, I recommend buying "Datsport", 1/4 window rubbers and frame to body rubber too. They are both one piece and fit excellent. They are made by a local plant in Australia, are of top quality, and fit like OEM. I bought all the rubber for my car from them. Yes more expensive and shipping to USA, etc, but you won't get the fit and quality from any world supplier I know of. Hey, your ride, I just don't want to spend years building my car, loads of money, and try to cut cost on parts that see tons of wear and UV damage. Who wants the rubber cracking on windows that are a bitch to remove and install. Reassembly: Reverse the procedure Tip: Stainless Screws should be lubricated to get the proper seating of the thread and combat galling. So, while the screw has a star washer to keep from losing, I use blue thread locker to lubricate the threads, seal the threads from corroding, and makes for easier removal down the road. The Frame Screws: The reason there are 6mm and 10mm screw is the length makes a difference with the 7 in the frame. Even with OEM rubber the screw go through and start to in coach where the glass edge will be, making it difficult to get the frame pieces to match up. All of the screws I have removed, measured 6mm, and had star washers separate. Since you need to buy stainless, to battle corrosion, you can buy screws with the star washers captive on the screw for almost the same price. Will save you the headache of putting each one on, keeping it on, while installing the screw. My big, clumsy, fingers, and tiny parts aren't easy for me or in the area of the frame. You can just buy the screws, and buy American #8 star washers. You may be able to buy the screws and washers at a local Ace Hardware, not HD or Lowe's. I couldn't seem to find them, so bought mine at McMaster-Carr, with the star washers already on them. Here is the window bracket with the screws installed. You can see they protrude some what towards the glass edge channel. Therefore, length is important. Apply several applications of the 303 protectant before installing the glass in the frame. Use plenty while installing the glass and rubber in the frame. I like to put the rubber on the glass, then rubber and glass in the frame. Can be tricky around the window bracket. Sometimes its different methods to get them in. The 2 screws 8-10mm long screws, flat washers, and lock washers go on the body to latch bracket, use thread locker here too. ​OEM Bulkhead latch assemblies L and R Here is a look at how the spring goes on the latch When installing the frame to body rubber on to the frame, rubber is not symmetrical, and should be installed as below in the small channel spot welded to the frame. Use a small amount of glue for rubber weather stripping. Be careful on the type of glue, some attach rubber. I don't remember the size and length of the 2 screws to secure the bulkhead bracket to body(" L" shaped bracket) or the 4 screws securing the frame to the body. I'm guessing M4-.7 x ? long with flat washers and lock washers? My car is a ways away at a buddy's for some wiring, not a fan of electrical. Thanks for reading this length post if you made it this far!! I hope this helps with your build!! :thumbup:
  9. 69datsun510


    I'll be bringing parts to sell for 510's. I'm purging all my spare parts I don't need for my current project. My third and final build so won't need to have stock piled parts. I have some parts specific to '68-69 production years. If you see something on the list, PM me for price negotiation and reserve for delivery at the Swapmeet. I don't sell to make money, mostly funds to finish my current project. So, just want a fair price, have been known to sell at a deal if it's for your project, and not to resale yourself for a profit because you lowballed me. I have had the parts for years, not looking to give them away. Items currently on my list: (1) Rear Window No factory tint (1) Pair of 1/4 Windows Glass No tint (Etched with Rampant Lion Emblem) (1) Set of 1/4 windows complete in very good condition, no visible corrosion, and rubber not cracking (1) Set of 1/4 windows gloss black powder coated, original frame/glass seal, rechromed window mounting bracket, all new stainless steel screws- refurbished just need window to body rubber seal and latch. I can put the Rampant Lion glass in the frames or factory tinted glass at your request prior to delivery or factory tint glass, your choice. (1) Set of 1/4 window frames gloss black powder coated, rechromed window bracket, window rubber seal from DatsunSocal from few years back, new stainless screws, and factory tint glass. You get to assemble them (1) Passenger side front window (1) Set of bumpers, front is painted red in okay condition and rear is useable as is, but chrome isn't show quality (2) sets of front and rear bumper brackets (1) set of metal side vents and mounting hardware, original chrome and paint, decent shape ​SOLD! (1) set of front side markers for 68-69 used in ok condition only one has rubber gasket (1) set of plastic vents in ok condition, would paint them all black for best results (1) 71-73 center radiator support (1) 68-69 center radiator support (2) sets of headlight surround all tabs good condition (1) steering column plastic cover 71-73 good condition (2) glove box doors 71-73, 68-69 with button latch (1) Rear seat -red - upper has rip all across the top and the bottom is in ok condition, I would reupholster both 1/4 window pics are disassembled parts, I will have a set assembled and another set your assemble with DatsunSocal glass rubber ​I also posted a pic of the factory tent 1/4 windows next to no tint windows for a comparison. The rear window is not tinted version that matches original condition no visible corrosion 1/4 windows. PM me if you have questions and see ya at the show/swap Thanks Dean
  10. 69datsun510

    510 2 door 1/4 window trim

    I chromed my window frames. There were some 2 doors that had the stainless on the roof cutters, and covering the 1/4 window frames, but difficult to remove intact. So, usually tossed once removed for a new paint job. Since you can get the rubber weather stripping for the glass to window frame from Datsport now. You could take the 1/4 window apart and chrome just the lower frame or all of them as I did. On my current build I powder coated the door seal trim, painted the front door window frame, door pillar and window frame area on the car black, and powder coat the 1/4 window frame black. Pictures of both cars below. Hope this helps you with your decision on what to do. You can find the trim parts at this link for reference, most likely no longer available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/bluebird-1968-1973/body-(sedan) Chrome Window frame and polished front door trim My current project with black painted frame areas I don't have any pics of the black door trim or 1/4 windows installed. Hopefully you can get the idea of what it might be like.
  11. 69datsun510

    9" wide wheels, without flares - stanced 510s

    If you had included the above statment, I believe most of us who think about handling and safety, would not have commented. What the guys do in Japan is mostly done to the newer, post 1980 cars, not the 510. Most of them with the crazy stretch etc, are just like you, driving it under 40 mph on crowded downtown street, around the corner to local car meet, to show off what a crazy extreme look on a current trend. I generalized by saying "most", generalizing from Psycology 101 in college, is not a good thing to do, but phrased such to not offend. I work many years as a Mechanical Engineer and have a hard time dismissing designed safety issues, not a specific trend look. I have my opionion on what I thinks looks good, make my car as close to what I like, and enjoy it. Build your car how you want it, run 2 sets of tires, paint it camo, but don't ask all of us to like it, the more extreme you go, the less you will have people liking it. Most guys with this trend arabian_ryda idea of this trend Just one guy trying to "one up", the previous guy. Remember guys getting killed or mugged for "spinner rims", and costing $10,000 a set? Now you can't give them away or seem them on the road. I'm staying old school, if that's waht you call it, and leave the new trends to the young.
  12. 69datsun510

    510 Air Conditioning?

    I bought an older unit like you are interested in buying. The units are aged plastic and break easily, and mess to work with. I ended up using a Vintage Air set up. I was able to replace the old 510 heater core with and up to date heater core/ evaporator/ dehumidifier. http://www.vintageair.com/ Unit in one of my cars I built My current project, I will have a center console covering the lower bracket and will have the AC control panel mounted in the console. I'm not sure if it would make you much money. The hassle to package the units for shipping would take time and money for shipping supplies. You would have people complaining about units damaged during shipping too. Just seems like a lot of work for not much profit. Good Luck
  13. 69datsun510

    9" wide wheels, without flares - stanced 510s

    So, wonder what happens when the tire heats up, say at high speeds? I typed up two different paragraphs about safety, and deleted them. Comments would just be wasted.
  14. 69datsun510

    9" wide wheels, without flares - stanced 510s

    Ah, you have the same tire for an 8" rim, front, and the 9" rear? I have never strectched tires, but I can already see the tire profile will look different between the two, and not in a good way. The front tires will have a taller profile, less sidewall strecth, and look larger, then the rear. If you have to use the rims you have, put them on your BMW, please.
  15. 69datsun510

    9" wide wheels, without flares - stanced 510s

    You are correct, and Maxima are between the stock and 280 ZX

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