DAW

About your question, that setup you pictured would be OK for full- throttle racing. But there is a version in which there are individual vertical columns for each barrel and that design would work better for a car driven at part-throttle. . I don't know if anyone has tried this, but I wonder what a vacuum secondary spread-bore type carb would be like on an L6 (modify the square-bore manifold)? I am putting together an AMC 258 cu.in. with a Jeep 4.0 HO head (inline 6 cyl) and I am using an Offenhauser Dual-Port manifold, but with a spread-bore carb adapted to the manifold. I use Dual-Ports on my L4 510 and my Toyota 20R with Weber 32/36 for street driving. But I'd like to find a progressive 2 bbl. with a vacuum secondary barrel (the Webers are mechanical secondaries).

I searched for air dams and this thread looks like the closest thing. My air dam is intact on my 510, but I wanted a spare or two so I bought a mold a few years ago. It is a great looking air dam mold that was being used for road race 510s. It has two round ducts. Now I see that this 510 air dam would probably also fit my '75 Toyota Chinook. I was going to fabricate something but a bolt-on would be great. The point is that I haven't worked with fiberglass or carbon fiber. If there is another 510 fan nearby (Seattle area) that is good with fiberglass maybe we could collaborate. I'll try to click a photo of the mold next time I'm out to my shop. If interested PM me.

For a 83' 280zx, flat top pistons. Has a N42 head available. Will it work and how well. Other head options that would be better are? Now you listen; and you listen good... Call me crazy, but the best recommendation I would make to you is that you find an L24 Crank and rods (>'72.[That leaves '73]). they have 9mm rod bolts and are stronger than 8mm rod bolts '72 1/2 and earlier). Yes, you take it all to a machine shop and have the L28E/F54 flat top pistons pressed off of the L28 rods. Then press the L24 pistons off of their 133mm long rods (rods = 9mm bolts because you have selected these) and then have the 86mm, L28E, F54 flat top pistons transfered to their new home atop the L24 ('73 L24, 9mm bolts) rods. Which are on an L24 crank...it works out to about 2.7L as I recall, but the important factor is that since the displacement/swept volume has been reduced it allows for closed-chambered heads and there arebut some nice choices Less (cc) is more in this situation. I've run the 10:1 c.r. F54 bottom end/N42 head situation. It's OK...but there are compromises and they are not surprising...the open-chamber N42 head is not optimal with flat-top pistons re quench/lack thereof & detonation issues. Better to concede a little displacement using a shorter stroke crank but maintain the 86mm bore for breathing at the valve/cyl bore region rather than try to relieve the crowding of the exhaust valves/bore top situation. Girlfriend is on to me...gotta go. DAW You do this to de-stroke your F54 L28E, thus making it a versatile base for a variety of excellent small cc heads which are closed-chamber and an excellent combination for any flat-top piston interface.

I use this manifold on my PL510 L18 with a 32/36 Weber with good results. I have a '76 Hilux mini-motorhome (Chinook) with 20R, rv cam, headers, m/t and a Weber 32/36 on the stock intake, but I'd like to see what a dual-port would be like on the vehicle. 20R is a round-port intake manifold. thanks in advance, any leads appreciated. Dave

Proper grammar in many cases means you are not so lazy that you wouldn't look it up. Most people who spell and write the English language accurately, take the time to type a word that looks funny to them or they're not sure about up into their browser search to access the word in Wikipedia, Webster's, OED, etc. Or grab a Thesaurus (get one at Goodwill for cheap). If you screwed up in school, admit it; you can pick up where you left off anytime. One's written word tells a story about them; often they are to be avoided rather than interacting. If you struggle with dyslexia, I for one, would like you to speak up and tell that right up front. I'd do all I can do to streamline the communication with you. If, however, you are just a pedestrian piss-ant punk perpetually looking for the shortcut, the easiest way rather than the best way or correct way... Lately, I see a certain type who is out to exploit the enthusiast forums to buy low and sell high in the classifieds. They aren't really concerned with the soul of the Marque, they are sell-outs who are concerned only about making a buck. Someone will likely provide a smart-ass remark about this post and I'll ignore this site for a long time again.

I'm looking for the collapsable spare tire itself (C78-14). I don't care about the can of fill, I'll use a 12v compressor to fill it. I don't even need the rim, I have one already and I'm going to try to use it on a 14" alloy wheel as a spare (the steel spare rim is heavy). The tire has to be able inflate and hold air. Price has to be pretty cheap. If off the rim it wouldn't cost much to ship (my expense).

might have a good P90A

I'm pretty sure I have one; bare, no carbs $100 SHIPPED. PM me for my PayPal info.

I'm definitely interested; just need some money to complete the sale...

Timing, yes, but more likely the combo of lean condition coupled with either correct, or too advanced, timing. The photo documentation there of the pistons say that a high mileage engine was run lean and poorly tuned. It was audible but no one was listening, or didn't know what to listen for.

That is an excellent question, one of the best. Not enough input, though. Recreational needs/access; value to being at an ocean (or small lakes, Great Lake, etc); value in being at the mountains (skiing); value of access to racetracks (road race/drag race/autocross/track day); clear weather days (flying); number of heating/cooling days...those are critically important criteria, and there are a lot more. But you are asking the right question.

Thanks!

As with any paint, it's how you apply it. I've done a few and will definitely do more. You guys who try to rip someone off when they are just trying to have some fun restoring their car in their own fashion:...you must hate this kind of thing. You probably hate Ratsun, since it is the epitome of your antithesis. It will be fun to pass you by. Oh, BTW, this works so great in the NW because it rains so much. Once there is any water on the finish, it glows like a $20,000 paint job. Just like it. My sons helped me with a black 720 king cab. When we got this S130 from Eastern Washington, it just cried out for a Rustoleum gloss black conversion. And my boys now knew what to do and we painted it behind our house. I picked up a gallon of Tremclad when I was in Canada. It's a VOC thing re why we don't have it in the US. I think the choice of colors is funny with these paints. Recognize yo. http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/DAW_cars/selling%20my%20cars/96MercedesBenzC280000153.jpg

I searched and didn't come up with any history, although that seems unlikely. (that there isn't any history; not that I searched). I saw some Miata manual seats that were tan leather and the color looked a reasonable match for transplant into my 280ZX with tan interior. I'm wondering about the seat brackets...any chance the Miata seats drop in? Really the question is how difficult are seat bracket adapters to make? I usually use square steel with the holes in it (like you see at the hardware store). It's light but strong for its weight and has so many holes in it that you can't miss in adapting the bracket to the floor mounting. Plus, those are galvanized and don't really corrode. So, I've done that many times. Is it any more involved or difficult? Thanks for the input and happy holidays. Let's keep it safe out there. DAW

They are in the diff. There are pics on Craigslist Seattle