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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Everything posted by Stoffregen Motorsports

  1. Shops remove everything when they hot tank the blocks. It's the best way to ensure that all orifices get clean.
  2. It's ironic how the more you know about a particular thing, the more there is to worry about. A favorite quote of mine is from my old boss Dave Rebello. He said once, when we were talking about the stock rod race motors he and Rick Freeman built for dirt track racing, and they would run them up to 10K regularly - "that was before we knew we couldn't spin them to 10K rpm." Ignorance is bliss.
  3. I spoke with a guy in the Reno area the other day and he mentioned having a spare J series cylinder head. He's an MG guy and doesn't need it, and I tried to talk him out of it, but he said it's spoken for. Could this be the one you found? That would be ironic.
  4. Within spec is good. Leave it where it's at then. Some bearings have oversize thrust. Besides that I always check everything when assembling a mechanical part. You never know what you may find. So yes, you've gotten lucky.
  5. How many home builds blow up or never run right in the first place? How many home builders use factory supplied OEM bearings? Aftermarket bearings are supposed to be built to the correct spec, but standards vary between manufacturers, and even mistakes are possible. It is not uncommon for bearings to be too tight and sometimes so tight that the crank won't even spin. Checking and adjusting is not the end of the world. Again, Mike with the questioning reality.
  6. Very diplomatic @Turbosauce74 There are ways to get your point across without calling everybody an idiot. I think the point you missed by a mile is that a cage is unsafe on the street because you're not wearing a helmet while street driving, and if you bounce around and hit your head on a piece of tubing, that's worse than having no cage at all.
  7. .002-.003 is not enough. You need to get that clearance up to .006". As mentioned, too much clearance can cause the oil pressure to drop, so be sure not to go more than .006". Sand the front side of the bearing ONLY. Use some 240 grit emery cloth and lube it with WD40 while sanding on a flat surface, like a piece of glass.
  8. I check crankshaft end play with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. I don't use feeler gauges, as they can be misleading, but if that's what you've got, then go for it. .006" is ideal, and remember to only sand the front side of the bearing. No sense in removing material from the thrust side of the bearing. To check thrust clearance (end play), install the crank with oil on the bearing surfaces, but not on the thrust surface. Drop in the center main cap only and seat it to the block, but do not tighten the bolts. Using a dead blow hammer, knock the crank forward in th
  9. Have yours rebuilt. I have a local shop that does nothing but motors, alternators and generators. They rebuilt my Sprite alternator for less than $100, paint and all. Boyle Future Tech in Auburn, CA. Or, if you must buy a new one, buy from someone like Mini Mania who knows their parts - https://www.minimania.com/SI/SearchText/generator
  10. 510 mirrors were plastic and rectangular. Those look like they're from a '60s American car. This one on Amazon looks identical - https://www.amazon.com/Fit-System-1701-Passenger-Replacement/dp/B001A0KUMC
  11. I use Toyota cables, because I have a lot of Toyota parts laying around. They are nice because they have a lot of adjustment built into the them.
  12. It's been years since I have actually purchased a muffler for a Datsun, but "back in the day" we would run either a standard muffler shop "turbo" muffler, or a Borla "lazy S" stainless muffler. I like the sound of the Borla more, but the turbo muffler sounds right at home on a Datsun.
  13. All L series, including 4 and 6cyl engines and Z series engines use the same dowel. I think even the KA is the same.
  14. You mean the light is on until you blip the throttle? I have had that problem before. There is a related thread on ahexp about problems with Speedhut gauges, and they discuss the charge light. Someone figured out that a strategically placed resistor (or even a light bulb) fixes this problem. https://www.ahexp.com/forum/the-sprite-forum.6/speedhut-be-gauge-artwork.238342/page-3
  15. Do you have a multi-meter? You can check it with that to rule out the gauge.
  16. Did you test your fuses on your Toyota?
  17. I've had a couple of those. They were actually Diahatsu Hijet. Both had dump beds and 7.17:1 gears. The transfer cases were unmachined for the 4wd parts. Cool trucks, but were useless to me.
  18. Really? That small? I figured they would have been 8x1.25 or 5/16-24.
  19. Lots of Spridget guys here. Who knew...? Mike Klotz said he ordered a handfull to measure for himself. I guess we'll find out soon enough. FWIW - I don't even own a Datsun anymore. I just hang out and try to help where I can.
  20. Never heard of them, and would have expected anyone who has to have responded by now. Their website looks kinda sloppy, but if they are a wrecking yard, this can be expected.
  21. Time is money too. I had a chef once who told me "if someone already makes good ketchup, why go through all the trouble making ketchup?" If you can provide the cotters to Datsun guys, whether you make them or not, everybody wins.
  22. Sounds like a win all around.
  23. Someone just posted that the big Healey pins are the same - https://mossmotors.com/pin-cotter-unf
  24. Set the bed on the chassis to measure the sag. That will give you an idea of how close they are.
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