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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on December 29 2018

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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    Cool, CA
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  1. Nice job. Farm trucks don't need return lines, but a vent may be helpful. If you still have the charcoal canister, use it. If you want t delete it altogether, make sure your tank doesn't pressurize or you may get a facefull of fuel when removing the cap.
  2. If you want to use the 620 column, you will have some machine work to do to get the lower portion of it supported in the tube. A few years ago, I did a write up on a balljoint conversion, and part of that job was making a new column/steering shaft. Check that link for how to make your -
  3. Every L 4 that we ever dyno'd while I was working for Rebello, made more HP with the right muffler than with no muffler at all. Even on the GT class engines. A straight through Borla was our muffler of choice.
  4. Nice! I don't know how much experience you have with custom engine builds, but I would take a minute to knock the sharp edges off the piston domes. Any little sharp edge can cause detonation and a simple smoothing with a cartridge roll or a flap wheel on a die grinder can knock those down in no time. Also, drill the #2 and #4 main bearing oil feed holes to 1/4", do the same with the #2 and #4 bearings. Chamfer all the holes before assembly. This gives much needed extra oiling to the rods.
  5. You could use oval tubing where it goes under the axle.
  6. While possible to use a power steering box with the ports connected together, it will have some drag to it. A non-power box would not have this drag. Electronic power steering is becoming very popular these days, with a few aftermarket offerings. Hot rod guys use them, so if you don't want a clunky OEM unit under your hood, try searching the web for aftermarket units. Here's a link to some steering shaft parts that may come in handy. 11/16 is roughly 17mm - https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/borgeson-universal-steering-u-joints/shaft-end-2/11-16-in-36-spline Use a Borgeson collapsable shaft - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-450024/overview/ And then to connect to the column, you could mill the Datsun shaft with two flats to utilize a 3/4" DD joint. I've done this many times. - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/steering-u-joints/shaft-end-1/3-4-in-dd/shaft-end-2/1-in-dd?N=4294924069%2B4294894928%2B4294894936&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=borgeson
  7. Someone obviously removed the choke.
  8. Why not out the side? How about up into the bed and out the tailgate? My 83 Toyota uses a muffler with inlet and outlet on the same end. this was so I could have a full length exhaust, but have it exit the side. I also used oval tubing to exit, just for fun as a nod to racing.
  9. I don't know if I agree with you. That first carb looks suspiciously like a "smog legal" Weber that was available for Datsuns for a long time. I believe Redline sold the kit, and it used that same carb. You're right that the carb was used on many other applications. I think guys used to call it a Fiat Weber.
  10. You're positive about the spline counts? There are no 28 or 35 spline joints in the aftermarket, at least that I could find. Are you sure those spline counts did not include a double or fat spline? There is a 17mm 36 spline joint available, and I use an 11/16 36 spline joint on the Toyota boxes.
  11. Mike was suggesting a 280zx steering box, which has a splined input. Does anyone have a box they could get spline count and diameter from? Either a 720 or 280ZX box? I am sure I could find an aftermarket universal joint to fit the box.
  12. I have a 720 column in back of the shop. It's gutted of everything, but the tube remains. I do recall it having a rather small OD though.
  13. It all depends on how thorough you are. It took me over 8 hours to remove an entire wiring harness from a Lexus LS400 a few years ago. I could have saved about 4 hours by cutting wires, but I wanted every bit of it to remain intact.
  14. RTV is a polarizing topic. Some people (Chevy owners) use it like Italians use olive oil. Others prefer it stay in the tube. I am of the opinion that it is a valuable tool in the toolbox. Front cover gaskets, if they are the good OEM type, don't need any RTV, except at the top corners (inside and out), where just a dab does the trick. I do use Gasgacinch to help glue them in place, but it's arguable whether or not it does any actual sealing. Nissan used similar glue on the engine assembly line. Oil pan gaskets - I've pretty much stopped using them altogether. The Right Stuff black RTV is way better than any oil pan gasket. It can get messy if you use too much, as it will squish out the bolt holes and onto the bolt heads before they are completely tightened. Don't be shy with it though. Just plan ahead the spots you want to avoid.
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