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Stoffregen Motorsports

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Stoffregen Motorsports last won the day on September 5 2019

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About Stoffregen Motorsports

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    Datsun Mechanic

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    Cool, CA
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    https://www.fourwheeler.com/features/0611-4wd-1957-range-rover/

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  1. Wow, you've done your homework and you nailed it on all counts. For the idler arm bushings - have you considered having some custom machined out of delrin or maybe even upper and lower bearings? Calmini makes an idler arm brace for later trucks that supports the arm on both ends - https://www.google.com/search?q=custom+idler+arm&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=bALfB3_RU1OehM%3A%2CNTKeKHLTwcUZDM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kR3kx92inchMdhCzDXF2MgOhkCDYw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjdr_qW1u3pAhWLtJ4KHZv2BygQ9QEwAnoECAQQHw&biw=1920&bih=938#imgrc=bALfB3_RU1OehM Here's a custom Toyota arm - https://www.polyperformance.com/total-chaos-86-95-4wd-toyota-idler-arm-95130?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=TCS-95130&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-u2Bl9bt6QIVQT2tBh0f2g7xEAQYBSABEgILxvD_BwE Don't know if you've ever seen a 320 idler arm, but they are basically half of a steering box. Super stout.
  2. Toyota flywheels are totally different and will not bolt onto an L motor. I am sure you can find a six bolt flywheel in Tasmania or anywhere else in Australia.
  3. I like how they mounted the parking brake cable bracket.
  4. Compatibility issues can sometimes be as stupid as having to bend the brake lines to fit the new location. I am sure the larger booster will bolt to the old setup, because I have seen many guys do it, but having not done it myself, I can't say what actually needs to be done. A larger master will also add to the braking power, but beware of disc vs drum residual valves built into the master. I believe Nissan had them installed in the outlet port of the masters and are easily installed or removed as required. Drum brakes do use residual valves. If the new master does not have one built in, you can install an inline residual valve easily. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&ei=DYXaXq6fAYaitQW496mICQ&q=drum+brake+residual+valve&oq=drum+brake+residual+valve&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeOgQIABBHUKygC1jlwwtgt8cLaABwAXgCgAGrBYgBniuSAQswLjEuNC40LjMuM5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwju2cfFnevpAhUGUa0KHbh7CpEQ4dUDCAs&uact=5
  5. I did a quick google search and found a lift for 83.5-86 720 trucks - https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915104-720-pick-up-suspension-lift.html Lifting an IFS suspension is not always a great idea because of the limitations built into the geometry of the control arms, cv joints, ball joints, etc. But in this case, a minor 1.5-2" lift is totally attainable without any adverse affects. Any more than that and you're getting into custom fab territory. Body lifts are not my preferred method of lifting a vehicle either. With a body lift, you only gain tire clearance, but the associated headaches that go along with a boy lift make it not worth the trouble. If I'm lifting a truck, I want diff and frame clearance too, not just tire clearance. If I were building a lifted 720, I would probably solid axle it, but if I were forced to use the IFS, I would make custom upper and lower control arms that widen the truck too. I would also incorporate upper shock mounting that could take coil overs to be able to ditch the torsion bars. This would also require custom axle shafts and custom steering linkage, but the results would perform much better than anything off the shelf.
  6. Well, as Mike said, you really can't beat an O2 sensor. You also said "all things being equal". Thing is, they are not equal. The self tuning capabilities of most EFI systems is the reason for the lob-sided argument. Yes, there are tuners out there that can get ridiculous mileage out of carbureted engines, but that's also not an equal argument. Are you one of these guys? Probably not. To stop beating around the bush and give a hypothetical answer to a hypothetical question, you're probably looking at 5-10% better mileage with EFI. But mileage isn't the only reason EFI is better.
  7. Ok, so all the benefits of putting a KA head on a Z24 bottom end have been made moot.While the Z24 and KA24 are near identical in their bore and stroke measurements, there are other differences that lean in favor of the KA for efficiency. Modern low tension piston rings and narrow rod and main bearings being chief among them. For these reasons alone, the KA would have better efficiency, from less drag/friction. As per your EFI comment, I think EFI has proven itself to be far superior to carburetion. Glad you finally came around to see that.
  8. If it's a vehicle that will probably never get more than a hundred miles from home, no spare needed. Especially if you have AAA or a trailer sitting at home.
  9. A Bosch scan tool costs about $50 and are very handy. You can also use them to clear any codes that may pop up. There are also apps that you can install on your phone to diagnose and clear codes. Some of them also have a dashboard that shows engine vitals while running. I used one a few years ago, but it made me sign up for a service, which I thought was ok, but then it freaked out whenever I tried to connect to another vehicle. So apps = bad, scanner = good.
  10. I send all of my steering boxes to https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ for rebuilding.
  11. I personally would not delete the sway bar. Believe it or not, sway bars help a truck drive better in a straight line, not just better for cornering. It helps control roll steer caused from hitting bumps or undulations on the road. Drilling through the control arm as you mention in option a shouldn't be a problem. The forces on the control arm are not in the direction that would cause it to fold in half. If it would make you feel better, weld a piece of 1/8" steel to either side of the control arm before you drill the new holes to help reinforce the area.
  12. I buy PICO brand fusible link in bulk from Summit Racing. They length of the wire also helps determine the amp rating, so make sure you get the same size and cut it to the same length as the original.
  13. Maybe I missed it, but I don't think you said which car/truck the motor would be going in. A 720? If yes, then that's one reason in the "pro" column for building the custom motor. Being able to use all the stock motor mounts, oil pan, pulleys and brackets is kind of cool. I built one of these Z24/KA24 engines many years ago, using a 12 valve head, and it went in a 510. I also remember building a 2.0L or 2.2L with a KA head, but the details on both of these builds escape me.
  14. It's called "setting the monitors". 50 miles should do it. Do you have a handheld scan tool? You can check the monitor status on most handheld scanners. It sucks that he failed it instead of telling you to take it for a drive and come back.
  15. The PHH series Mikuni/Solex carbs are similar to Weber DCOE side drafts, but many people feel they are better, and I agree. But, they are hard to find as they stopped producing them about 25 years ago. The Mikunis Hainz linked to are a motorcycle carb, and not in any way similar to a Weber DCOE or PHH Mikuni, but are very tempting to try, since they are inexpensive, modern, compact and easy to get. The "regular carb" you mention, if you're referring to the stock carb, can be ditched in favor of a downdraft Weber DGV, DGEV, DGAS, etc. Those are all very reliable, easy to tune, easy to work on and easy to get. I don't know how old your son is, but if he's young, he probably likes flashy things. So I understand his desire for dual side drafts, but they take a huge learning curve to set up properly and tune/maintain.
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