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Everything posted by FD3S

  1. So i need this truck gone now 600 takes it only thing needs to be done is timming chain cover and webber tune. if no takers im going to tear the truck apart and scrap everything part out the engine
  2. So the only reason why the trucks not running because of the coolant canals in the timming chain cover the gaskets are just so crappy fittin that its leaking from there... if not one wicks the truck up soon. im just to just redo the gasket again ( for the 5th time) and hope its on right
  3. No one likes dem trucks here? I need this thing gone -_- our 1jz is going to arrive soon i need the space :mad:
  4. need to get rid of truck quick 700, loosing money from this - 4088330637 for any questions
  5. Sorry My mistake forgot bout pictures Here they are . like I said no rust.
  6. bump need truck out of drive way 900$ or reasonable offers want to get what i paid+parts at least
  7. I love the truck, but I have to many vehicles any how... and to many things I need to do... I just dont want to look at the datsun any more... I'm really just looking for 1000-1100 ( what i paid for in parts and junk+the truck itself ) Jun 408-833-0637
  8. Yes after all that work, I'm going to have to stick with Fuel Inject engines.. I love the Truck tho really would like to keep it but i have to many vehices, 2007 r6 1993 rx7 1996 civic and the 1974 620 My yard and garage is field with car bumpers engines , and misc engine parts from customers and myself...the trucks been in the garage for a while now and well it's done and I really dont want to deal with it any more after the broken bolts the pain of getting the timing chain cover on and all the other bs... 1500 obo , really im just looking for 1100 ( pay for what i paid for t
  9. I'm just no good at tunning the carb... I'm to used to the electrical crap... Engine has a 180 170 170 170 compression we did a quick valve lash so we could get the trucking running. Just need to redo the valve lash to get a 180 all around Body has pretty much no rust.
  10. Hey guys sorry for delay been busy with work and my rx7 and side job. Got the truck running im just no good at tunning the carburated engines so I dont want to screw anything up Well I'm putting the truck up forsell. I find im no good at carburated engines. truck has 4 new pistons reading 180 170 170 170 valve lash needs to be redone again to get 180 all around, we did a quick job to get the engine running head has been hot tanked and machined Block has been honed. has all new gaskets timing chain cover, oil pan, valve cover, and head gasket Comes with extra gaskets and stock
  11. I'm Selling my 74 Red 620, The Truck has ** Sent the head out to machine shop to hot tank and milled. New head gasket New pistons ( All four ) New pistons rings New Alternator New oil pan gasket New valve seals New timing chain gasket Has a webber 32/36 Also comes with the stock carb. Bought the truck looking sat a smog exempt way out but found that I'm no good with Carb engines. Asking 1500 Local Buyers only please. Feel free to contact me about any questions Jun 408-833-0637
  12. lol FUK! lost a bolt for the water pump so now its leaking!... I'm fresh to carb systems so I'm looking through manuals for now .. going to home depo to see if i can find sa bolt that fits there. .. gots to tear the fan apart again tomorrow... but man i sounds like a v8 for the few seconds i had it on.. sorry to answer your question the thing that was over looked was the itmming part on the distributor. from what you guys had said above... Again really apreciate all the help you guys have givin me.
  13. OMFG It's alive , the whole time it was somethign that was so simple we over looked it. I just now have to research on how to ajust the idle on the carb and figure out how to make the flaps close all the way. the previous owner's son had played with the truck and screwed the shit out of it . so now my engine uns just reving the crap out of itself... freakin weber 32/36 when I bought the truck the carb flaps seems to bee open all the time. not sure if it suppose to be... but yea thanks much for all the help... the issue was the distributor being slightly off from #1
  14. We've watched the video prolly twice and read the tech section on the620.com a few times aswell everything is checking out... So tonight if I have time I will adjust the distributor counter clock wise to the max and try from there after that I will check in back of the distributor... I apreciate all the replies...
  15. I had thought that aswell so i got a screw driver and expanded all the metal so it would have propper connection still same thing -_- . I feel like a retard for being able to work on a rotary and yet not the simple l18's
  16. So I Have everything in order when I try to crank the engine it chokes/wont crank proper ( crank stop crank stop ) But if switched # 1 and 3 it would crank fine. anyone have any idea's ?
  17. So fixed the oil pump rod to this heres photos of everything on TDC
  18. So here are photos of the Cam, and the Oil pump @ TDC
  19. firing order is correct. It's at 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise. One starting at the bottom.
  20. Plugs replaced , Wires were replace before I purchase the truck, Coil pack is the old coil pack& old points... Lash is ajusted to specs of .08 and .010. we're slapping on the alternator to see if that helps. sad that I can work on complicated cars and yet such a simple engine I cant get runnign. -_- . Thinking It might be the carb since I don't know which wire plugs to the carb Compression is checking out 1) 165 2) 165 3) 163 4) 163 I'm located in Northern California, Bay Area When doing the timming Cam lobe intake @ 10 o'clock exhuast @ 2 o'clock cylind
  21. So I've tried starting the car today without the Alternator and radiator on...It cranks over but just wont start I'm getting Air Fuel and spark.... I just Don't know what going on now... The base of the engine is so simple... But then when I bought there car theres some Wires that are cut in the engine bay... Could anyone tell me what the wire is that I was holding in the picture near the battery holder? its black So i think its ground and have it plugged in the ground...
  22. So I found out it wasnt the head gasket today ( went out bought a new one ) still got 0 compression... we took the valve cover off and decided to test the compression without retainer ( so all valves would be close) this way we would know if the 0 compression wsas due to valve's or piston rings or what not turns out it was the valve lash. We reajusted the valve lash ( had to cut the tool to make it fit) did a compression test again and got 150 120 and so forth but this was due to a weak battery.. so engine start slow was unable to crank over... I'm haveing a buddy charge the battery and am
  23. So L18 1 , Home team 0... I got the spark still no crank checked the compression got 0 0 15 0 noticed the head had alittle oil... I shouldnt have let my friend do the gaskets... anyhow we reused a metal heasd gasket that was pretty much brand new... well I'm thinking now that the block is warped, from the the looks of the engine when we took it apart the previous owner didnt know wtf he was do and prolly damaged everything there is .. going to go buy a new head gasket tomorrow and this Time I'm going to do the gasket job.. and idea's or suggestions?
  24. Just recently purchase the car from the original owner, spark plugs have been propperly gapped to 30, coils and wires havent been changed yet from what previous owner says its been change before the head went. I'm completely new to this so I don't know what distributor system is running on it... I know is that it has a 32/36 weber and thats boout it... the wires in engine looks spliced and what not But we did get it running before we tore it apart so I pulled a plug wire and plugged it directly to the coil and tested for spark got nothing... I notice the coil pack had a wire co
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