SamL

Got the bolts out. Rethreaded to M8x1.25. Original thread pitch was 20. Now I'm going to tap the holes to see if they're damaged. If its too loose I'm thinking of using blue locktite. If its okay then anti-seize. Thoughts?

Did the 720 ever had the carburetor mounted on the driver's side? In which case, it would use DFEV or DFAV.

Success. One stud off the intake manifold. So, he used SAE studs and forced them into the intake manifold. Then used metric nuts to hold down the carburetor. I've been stripping nuts like crazy.

Thomas, go to Harbor Freight and spend $10 and buy these: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-self-adjusting-wire-stripper-70291.html I've own those similar to yours but ended up using scissors because I could manually feel the pressure. Then I bought the ratcheting strippers; night and day difference. Its like bending metal over an anvil as opposed to using a modern hydraulic press.

A clogged catalytic converter? A non-carburetor equipped car would have problems this but a car with a carburetor? Vacuum lines? Stuck choke? or starved for air? Just throwing out non-electrical problems out there.

I hear you from someone who've been dealing with lighting problems since I've bought my truck. Switch worked initially, but strange behaviors pop up after putting it back to factory. But I know my problem is more functional than anything else. I had it working properly until I switched the in-line fuse to positive side (factory) from negative side. What I would do from easiest to hardest: 1. Check battery. 2. Check alternator. 3. Using a DMM (digital multimeter) check continuity across last two fuses in fuse block in drivers side. Should be 10A each. Then check continuity from switch to lower end of fuse and check switch to top end of fuse. 4. Check voltages across low beams. On drivers side its red/yellow and red/blue wire. On passengers side its red/yellow and red/brown. 5. Turn engine on and check how much voltage drops. 6. Check voltage across high beams. 7. Check all grounds. 8. Check in-line fuse to battery. If voltages are okay, I would replace bulbs first. If not, then: 9. Replace lighting relay above fuse block (black). 10. Combo switch. The lighting switch is located on the drivers side on the back of the combo switch. There are 4 (or 5?) copper strips which makes various contacts depending on if switch is in hi/low/pass. Do NOT take it off. Mine had built up grime between contacts. Take contact cleaner and spray and spray it again. 11. Check continuity between lighting switch and the gauge cluster (high beam indicator lamp). Make sure cluster has no broken contacts. If problems still exist, you probably have a short somewhere. Clean all contacts with appropriate cleaner, check parking lights or all lights that comes on when beams are engaged and lastly check wire/wire bundle integrity.

I've replaced my 84 4x4 dash with a 83 2wd because it was pretty clean but the space for the radio is about 1/4" smaller. I don't mind not having one and probably will be looking to blank it out. Also, what do you think about leaving the center console (below the climate controls) out? Since mines is a Franken' truck with stick closer to the seats, I'm thinking it will look cleaner without it. I could hang aftermarket gauges underneath the climate controls. One reason to leave it out is the design flaw where the 'hood' of the two gauges is angled up which is in the way with the climate controls above it.

I would advise caution. I believe the trace is between two layers of some plastic material. Solder melts at around 350 degrees F. At that temperature, it will easily melt plastic. Could you somehow use a strong tape to hold the plastic down? Then you could use a DMM to check continuity.

He drives in reverse a lot.

I'm just going to order the Weber kit. What's on there now looks similar to an aftermarket Chinese carb. Considering it has the experts here stumped, trying to find instructions for it will be a nightmare. Hopefully, it will eliminate vacuum lines and I can revert it back to electronic choke. The ECC unit is still there under the drivers seat.

Front Left side (drivers) Right side (passenger) Top with throttle plate open

A manual choke was installed but questionable. Perhaps its me but linkages are easily moving in directions they're not suppose to. But I'm asking the same question. Yes, its a 1984 4x4 King Cab. He told me he installed a 80's transmission. In the bed of the truck, he left an extra Z22 engine. It may have come off the same vehicle. Could it be the reason why he 'hacked' up the speedometer? All I know is the transmission is a FS5W71B long tail. The shift point is closer to the seats. I guess I'm going to dig around and find out what he put in it. But the biggest concern is getting it operating again. After all the rewiring I may have left a short somewhere. I also found a lot of disconnected vacuum lines while trying my hand at adjusting the valves on a cold engine. BTW, anyone near me want a Z22 engine? No carb but seems like everything else is there. Comes with hood and several quarter panels. Use it as a boat anchor. Bring a winch.

I also found the VVT valve. The accelerator cable was resting on the EGR and was used to hold the cable back. The more I dig into this the more funds I see putting into it just fixing the previous owners hacks. I dug out the carpet due to being wet and found this: BTW, the truck has an 1980 tranny with an extra tooth in 2nd and 3rd gears.

I was wondering if the vacuum line outline in red is the same outlet/inlet as the one in the diagram. I don't trust the configuration its in now but the hose currently 'T' to an open line and the middle outlet on the T.V.V. What you're seeing above is cardboard used as a carb gasket. All I can think of is this truck would be a candidate for a Weber conversion.

Have you tried continuity tests? Assuming the 'primary' is on the left in the distributor, do a continuity test on the red wire: from ignition coil to either "I" or "E" (Intake or Exhaust?) The 'secondary' or white-blue (blue in the above) wire would be opposite. You could also check the Black-white wire (opposite the red wire on 'primary' ignition coil) to fuse block.