GeneralDipDIp

After replacing front passenger wheel bearings, races, and rotor i was tightening the spindle nut to 100 ft/lbs and the two teeth on the "special washer" in the diagram below snapped off. Now I can't back off the spindle nut as it continues to spin and I am in need of a new special washer. I can't seem to find a new one online so far. Help would be appreciated on how to get the spindle nut off now as well.

Following up on this, what was the part number you eventually used? Currently looking for a 82 4x4 center link.

I think the wiring of the auto choke relay is wrong, currently i have the white/blue and a brown wire on the COIL and the yellow/red on the COM, with a blue wire on the NC. Looking at the wiring diagram, the blue/white COIL is connected to the lamp wire going to the alternator. Wouldn't the brown wire be feeding current into the alternator through the coil? It makes sense so that when the alternator isn't charging, the choke heater turns off, but doesn't this mess with the lamp circuit?

The white/blue is wired to the bottom of the T. The top of the T is the white sense wire which goes to the battery.

Quick summary of work done: rebuilt original alternator, new battery, new auto choke relay, new battery dash light (burnt up), new alternator belt, rewired fusible links and all alternator wires (sense, lamp, bat). All wires get bat voltage besides the blue/white lamp wire, which gets bat. voltage when ignition switch is on. Checked voltage of all fuses. I pulled the alternator and had is rechecked after the rebuild and it tested good at ~14 volts. While running the voltage is 12.5 and very slowly drops, all other electrical components seem to run fine. I've read through many helpful posts on this issue but still can't seem to fix it. Thanks for the help.

It worked great toshts, thanks. On a separate topic, 1 of my intake manifold bolts snapped and I can't seem to find any online? I am already getting 2 new exhaust manifold bolts from nissanpartdeals but the intake manifold bolts are discontinued. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the reply Mike. Another question, I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Holding-1980-1989-4-Cylinder-Engines/dp/B0002Q8TVO but it seems too small and wouldn't hold the tensioner in place. I found this timing chain holder that is for L series engines and looks much more secure. Is this one compatible with my Z22? I was going to make it out of wood. http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/mklotz70/Engine/L%20Series/TimingChangeTensionRetainerSAE.jpg

Just wanted to do a sanity check that the engine is set to TDC. I have the inside tab of the distributer pointed to E 1 (first image) and there is another tab on the distributor that is pointed to I 1 (second image). The marking for 0 on the pulley is almost lined up but I wasn't sure if I could turn counter clockwise (third image). Another question is what the camshaft sprocket markings mean (fourth image)? Clarification would be great while I make the timing chain holder. https://imgur.com/a/OMRQkwC

I have a king cab confirmed, didn't know there was a heavy duty model. I pulled the tank and it was a 19 gal. identical to the 1986 tank in the link earlier and I swapped it in without any issues.

It is a long bed, should have mentioned in the original post. The link seems to work for me, it shows a 19 gal. tank for 1986 nissan 720. Thanks for the reply Mike.

Looking for a new gas tank for my 4wd 1982 Datsun 720 King cab. Can anyone confirm this is the right part below? It says it doesn't match my vehicle but looks identical to what I've found. On Nissan parts website it seems to be the same tank for 1986 and 1982. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1982-nissan-720_pickup/fuel_engine_control/fuel_tank.html?filter=(2=Z24;4=F5;5=LONG;6=4WD;1=K%2fCAB;7=FED)&diagram=172_H01 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1986-nissan-720_pickup/fuel_engine_control/fuel_tank.html?filter=(6=4WD;2=Z22;3=DX;1=K%2fCAB;4=F5;5=LONG;7=FED)&diagram=172_K01 https://a-premium.com/product/19-Gallon-Fuel-Tank-for-1986-Nissan-720-faQMKWH712?variant=3144976&utm_source=gmc&utm_content=114912715440977951_3144976&country=US&currency=USD&language=en&code=gmc10&campaignid=21979245962&adgroupid=&adid=&extension_id=&utm_campaign=2_PMAX_Run_Key_states_241207&device=c&device_model=&keyword=&matchtype=&utm_site=x&geo=9030450&utm_placement=&target=&target_id=&ad_position=&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_id=3144976&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21979263011&gbraid=0AAAAAo5iiwnawwb0W4CYjsnyr3W3FWiaL&gclid=CjwKCAjw89jGBhB0EiwA2o1On7G0FzhFG4U4rwSr-_qR6owuRbMQRE4MvBiY0dwhLaClKKNnpGYJ7RoCMCIQAvD_BwE

The heater hoses are blocked with a wooden dowel, the heater core was leaking under the dash. I have the top hose of the TVV routed correctly. Any idea on where the AB valve would even connect?

https://imgur.com/a/ilK92YJ Here are a few photos of my setup. Everything is connected as 720_daniel had it, besides the canister purge line since there is no AB valve. In that diagram, the canister purge is not connected to the vacuum advance? It seems on other air cleaners there is a large L connection for the AB valve to connect to, however my air cleaner doesn't have this. I also followed fastboatman's tutorial on Nicoclub for some of the air cleaner connections. Thanks for the link Sephakrid.

In the diagram 720_daniel showed, there is a canister purge line going into the AB valve. Where should this line go while I don't have the AB valve? You mentioned it would run fine without it but I don't want open vac lines. Thanks again Mike.

I can't seem to find any online, are there other compatible AB valves that are easier to get? Also, how is the AB valve mounted?