slvrbk

No problem. Let me know if you get stuck.

Yes, exactly. I almost exclusively use True Value Hardware or Ace Hardware because they have a great selection of metric and imperial hardware. You can bring your bolts in and check them on their thread checker. Find what you need and buy the quantity you need. Very convenient.

@datzenmike, I wondered about the cable length, but I panic-bought the parts, figuring the $25 wouldn't crush me. After the fact, I looked up the lengths and realized they were 9+ inches different. That took me by surprise. I'll either return it to Rockauto or put it up for sale here and on the FB page. I don't have the image of the right side. I thought my photo captured it, but it obviously didn't. I can confirm that it was mirrored from the left side, as you see in the photo with my fat thumb. The bracket was mounted in the same orientation, with the cable clamp/holder/guide being closer to the outside of the truck. Here's a picture that was shared to my troubleshooting post on FB. This is essentially my setup...without the successful connection to the threaded adjuster.

I did compare the lines back to each wheel, as mentioned in the previous post. The main front cable is my original. It was in good working condition (and I couldn't find a replacement for the 1979 model year style). The driver-side cable matched one of the old cables, and the passenger-side cable was short by a bit. I couldn't see anywhere else on the truck that I would lose cable length, so I have to believe it was routed correctly and not binding. I'll see what the "long bed" version looks like when it arrives.

I have the stop nut threaded all the way down, so the rubber boot is bunched up because of that. I can take a closer look tonight.

I took everything back apart at the drums (pics 1 and 2) and removed the cables. The driver's (left) side matched up to an old cable (pic 3). The passenger side appears to be off by the extra length on the swaged fitting (pic 4). I thought I would be able to trim the extra length and gain 1/4". Apparently, I don't know how these fittings work; I thought I could sneak up on the stranded wire by cutting through the ferrule. It was solid throughout (pic 5). I purchased the "long-bed" cable for the right side last night. Other than the length difference in the right side cable, I couldn't find anything wrong with my setup. Nothing was binding or routed funny. Hopefully, the new cable gives me enough new length.

I did get it running. Quite well, in fact. It's registered and semi-drivable. I keep tinkering. The lash pad is back where it belongs, and the valves adjusted. I'll monitor it over time. Good to know on the rust preventative. While the truck is solid and rot-free, it's way rustier and dirtier than I was hoping for. I am chipping away at it as time permits.

I am positive that I ordered the correct lines, for the correct side, for the correct year, for the correct bed from Rockauto. I do not recall matching them up before installing. Rookie move. I do still have the old frozen cables hanging around. I double-checked the lever this evening when I got home from work. The handle was down (fully off). I also reached under the dash to check if the cable end was loose. Seemed fine, but I couldn't crawl under it, so I'll retrace those steps tomorrow. I am going to try to tug on it to get more length. 😅 I might be able to fab up something at work, but I'll first start with taking it all back apart to measure cables and atone for earlier mistakes (if it comes to that).

Still having fun wrenching on the weekends, especially now that the weather is getting nice here in North Carolina. I've rebuilt brakes at all four corners and have the truck running pretty good. The parking brakes, however, are beating the crap out of me. I've installed new rear cables from RockAuto (Raybestos brand, I believe). I'm going through the adjustment, and I am far away from touching the threaded equalizer. Not a chance I can close that gap without having the parking brakes engaged. Couple things to note if you can help me out: 1) All new drums, shoes, and hardware on both rears. 2) Shoe adjustment was done per the FSM 3) Pretty confident that I put the correct cable on the correct side, but I'm open to being wrong if there isn't a way to confirm other than disassembly and measurement. I forgot what host I was using for images, so once I figure that out, I'll post the photos I took.

Making slow, steady progress. Finished the valve train work, installed a Weber, got distracted with my wedding, and now jumping back in as winter sets in. The drive shaft is out for a carrier bearing replacement. I have the old bearing off and refitting a new National Brand kit. I have questions about it... The new nut is different. It spins on three full rotations and then gets tight. I think there are some boogered threads, so I am chasing that. Is a 20x1.5 die correct? At the moment I am using the nuts to gently chase. The kit came with what appears to be a grease seal or rubber isolator. Nothing like it came off during deconstruction, so I'm looking for advice on where (or if) it goes on. If I need to post a picture, I can do that when I get on my laptop. Once this is done, I'll drain and fill the transmission, and do the same for the differential. After that it'll need an exhaust (badly!). Thanks for tuning in.

Thanks! Just trying to make it incrementally better every time I work on it 😵‍💫.

Thanks, Mike. The write-up on replacing the retainer is helpful. Both the FSM and Haynes read a little more complicated and involved. The valvetrain is surprisingly clean. The odometer says 45K miles, and certain parts of the truck look like that could be true, but I have no faith that ticker is still working. I did replace oil seals on both hubs, and I went through the procedure on pre-loading the bearings. The calipers were completely cleaned and resealed as well. New hardware and fresh fluid finished off that project. I still have to do the rears. @Ooph!, I'll definitely look at draining the gas. We have a few non-ethanol stations around, so that's what I'll trend toward using long-term. I have a siphon tube for my old SAAB because it sits long periods right now too. Thanks for the help. It's great to get some eyes on this project and I hope to move it along. I miss the forum format. I was on the old SAAB and SOHC4 motorcycle forums before they gave way to Facebook groups.

I love my Bambus! I've got the X1 Carbon and just purchased their new H2D w/ 40W laser. All for work purposes. Really sweet print. Love the welded seams.

Hello (Datsun) World. My name is Alex, and I live in the middle of North Carolina - just west of Charlotte. I recently purchased a 1979 620, covered in mud, from a Mississippi farm. It's becoming more of a project than I initially thought it would be, but we're here and we're getting it back on the road. Here's my current garage setup, sans the daily Buick wagon. First up was a deep clean and a brake job. The thickness of the mud was impressive; I am still working to clean it up. The driver-side rotor was scored badly and needed replacement, but both hubs were welded onto the rotors. After separating the components, installing new rotors, rebuilding both calipers, and regreasing the hub and bearings, we were back in business. My wife even helped bleed the brakes with me! Second are the valve clearances. Honestly, the truck runs like crap. It shakes, it ticks, and it bogs down under acceleration. It might be the original carb or the old gas. It might also be poor valvetrain maintenance. I started with the valves and quickly found an issue. Cylinder two's intake valve rocker lost its lash pad. I found it further down the camshaft out of harms way, but the rocker, or exiting lash pad, had slammed into the spring retainer enough to do some damage. The lash pad won't drop back in, so I think the retainer has to be replaced. I have more planned, but this is where I can leave off for now. I am waiting on some parts and trying to research the best way of replacing the valve spring retainer without pulling the head, or dropping a valve. I am also crossing my fingers that I can leave the camshaft in place, but I don't know what my reach will be once I start the job. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible for now, as I get the truck operational. I'm happy to tackle bigger projects once I know the mechanical guts are good.