toshts

81 720 - that's the lz22 I've been messing with for the past handful of months

I've got a pump from a d21 and lines that run to the factory pump location for the z series. This is what I'm working with right now With the l series setup mounting the pump in the original location is definitely doable, if I used the cast iron bracket from the d21 pump and spaced it out using one of the mechanical fuel pump bolt holes it would make alignment with the pulley easy. I'd prefer to keep the hard coolant line that runs the thermostat bypass and intake line but doing so makes it tricky to mount the tensioner. I'd probably end up mounting the tensioner under the power steering pump. Was also considering making a bracket that would let the ps pump pivot like the alternator and a slotted bracket that would let me tension it without a separate tensioner just like the alternator. But with space and time constraints I think it'd be easier to just swap everything over until space and time are no longer a constraint

Yeah I had to swap to a different column when I switched to power steering, still have my old column and everything from the manual setup. The issue is mounting the pump and tensioner with the l series setup, for the past handful of months I've just been driving with the ps box but no pump which is getting annoying. It'd be pretty easy to make brackets and mount it where the AC compressor would go but I plan on installing AC in the future so I wanna leave that space open so I'll be sticking with the factory location for the PS pump. I've got a spare l20b on a stand that I'm planning on using to fabricate the mounts eventually but I've got other priorities for the time being so I'm thinking of just throwing the manual setup back in until the summer when I've got more free time?

Thanks, my manual box is from my 81 and ps box is from an 82 but I'd assume it's a similar difference across the years. Think that's a good enough difference to justify swapping it back in the meantime so I'll add that to my to do list

I assume the answer yes but I want to confirm before swapping everything back, does the power steering gear box have a different gear ratio than the manual steering one? Been putting off fabricating mounts for the power steering pump and tensioner since I put the lz22 in and have just been driving with the power steering box not hooked up to anything. Was considering putting the manual steering box/everything else back in in the meantime but it's been so long since I originally swapped to power steering I don't remember if it was any different with the manual box than it is now lol.

You're all good, good work going through all the other diagnostics for the engine. Luckily this is just about the easiest clutch replacement you could do. Pop the clip and pin out and pull the shifter, 4 bolts at the dif drops the driveshaft, 4 bell housing bolts plus 2 for the separator plate, 2 starter bolts, 6 nuts for the crossmember, 1 for the exhaust clamp and you can wiggle the trans out. I'm sure there's good writeups on it already out there but always feel free to ask questions

Think the confusion came from the wording - very little power until certain rpm vs doesn't move but revs increase but you did spell it out with saying it barely moves until 4k. Good news is it sounds like your engine nice and healthy 🙂 Also worth it to call up a machine shop and get your flywheel turned, cost me 40$ at my shop.

Lmao how did we miss this, yeah it's a bad clutch. About 100$ and a handful of hours of labor, since you've got a 2wd truck it's not bad at all to pull the trans.

Like the trucks still, in gear, you let off the clutch and it doesn't move? Doesn't sound like a hydraulic problem, more likely your friction disk is worn out. If the pedals released, the pressure plate should be firmly clamping that friction disk to the flywheel with no hydraulic pressure on it. Unless the master cylinder is always slightly engaged you probably need a new clutch. You can check the master cylinder pushrod and confirm that it allows full release of the master cylinder, if it doesn't you can adjust it and see if that fixes it

My local parts house also sells a synchromesh by Pennzoil for like 12$ a quart, I've been curious about it compared to the Delco considering how much cheaper it is. Apparently napa sells a Valvoline synchromesh for 9$ a quart too

Rebuilding a carb is far from swapping a full sized truck drive line into a small Japanese truck. People have swapped small blocks into 720s but the main concern is handling, a 350 is roughly double the weight of a z24. Getting that drive line to fit will also be a challenge. If you have significant experience with fabrication that can withstand the weight and power of that drive line and a whole bunch of free time you can do it, but it would function much better on a drag strip than on the street. If you don't have significant experience fabricating and want to swap in something with more power, the ka24e is pretty much a direct bolt in and you'll still have a solid project or the vg30 for more power but more work. Or if you really want a V8 and take on all the work find an Oldsmobile or Buick 315 aluminum V8, weighs only like 100lbs more or so and you can make solid power out of them. Here's some discussion on the topic

Yeah these new mounts are pretty bad about the pins. Alternatively you can drill a new hole in the mount bracket but grinding it offs just fine too

Looks good, timing should be close enough to start up and run. If it feels like it's having a hard time cranking the timings too advanced, bring it back down a little and try again

While not the best option if you're looking dirt cheap, quick and easy you can throw some helper springs on the bottom in half an hour for like 40$ and regain some height and spring rate. Don't even need to take the leafs out to put em on. Getting the springs redone or getting new ones will be better for sure though.

Theoretically yes - there's some concerns on how solid the separator plate would be just bolted on and not sure of clearance but I think it'd clear fine. There's also the issue of heating, no coolant runners or exhaust runner to help warm it up so depending on the climate your in it could give you issues, maybe less issue with efi