old_dirty_dime

So I went to an alignment specialist and they fixed my steering issue. I took my front sway bar off and changed my rca to normal mode from negative camber mode. Which now the only camber adjustment is from my camber plate! My front camber is -1.3, and rear toe in 1/16” rear camber is -2. I can finally drive my car the way I want to drive it…. at WOT! Jk not really… but I do want to thank everyone who replied and helped me out in every way. I am truly grateful for this Datsun 510 community and the members who know this car from the inside out. I am a mechanic and smog tech for 15 years but no longer do either but still hold a valid ca smog and repair license and ase 6, 8 and L-1 which are required to do smog repairs. But this forum rocks and thank you again!

Does anyone know exactly what alignment my specs should be or ideally what would be best for my set up? And I’m not super low at all with no stretch tires. Currently I took off my 5mm spacers up front and it cleared my wilwood big brake kit. As I was watching a YouTube of bump steer it seems to me adding washers under my outer tie rod would help fix my bump steer? Since the angle of my outer tie rod became bigger when my car was lowered? And adding 5/8” washers will help correct the angle of my outer tie rod? I don’t feel my steering wheel move whenever I hit a bump it’s that my car wants to go in the same direction of the grooves on the road.

Also should my outer tie rod where it bolts to my steering knuckle sit under it or over it?

My spacers currently are 34mm. I used a dial caliper to measure it. I also have my old rca spacers from dp racing as well which I believe are 1” which were on my previous 280zx coils by tsr. If you meant my wheel spacers are only 5mm up front. I maybe be able to clear my strut without the spacer if that will help. I also have my oem lca and tension rod. My outer tie rod is the beefier 5/8” so I had to drill out my center linkage and steering knuckle. Sorry and the t3 evolved rca on negative camber mode is negative 2. As long as my camber plate up front is set at zero

Still don’t know how to post pictures I just took…

There the ones that t3 made. I’ll measure them. But I also have 3 modes on them which are negative camber mode, regular mode, Ackerman mode depending on how they sit on the strut but that can be changed. I do have some old rca that will fit and they’re about 1” tall and not adjustable. So to me the front end is my biggest issue. I’ve brought my toe from out to zero ish. But will need an alignment done to be sure. My tire pressure is 34psi up front and 32 psi rear.

I haven’t gotten it aligned anywhere bc I wanted to take it to a 510 alignment place or someone who knows about these cars bc I heard they’re not like most cars. I was gonna take it to motoiq seems one of the guys knows about 510’s.

Not sure how to? I’m new to this forum but I figured to get some answers is to post on here with fellow 510 enthusiast like myself.

I believe tire pressure is about 32psi

Thank you guys for all the responses. I really appreciate it bc this is the only thing me not loving my Datsun. I haven’t done a bump steer test. How do I do that? I have love2bee fender flares and I cut my firewall in the front about 1.5” back for clearance my tires would rub at full turn in sometimes but not anymore. And if I adjust my tension rod and bring the rim forward then it would rub on my fender. But now I have no issues rubbing at all. I am not running stretch tires nor will I ever. I want more meat on my rims not less and I’m not about stance or hella flush look. My rims are 15x8 watanabes offset 0 but I put spacers on so I’m -5mm up front and my rear is -25 but will go back down to -15. Tire size is 15” Toyo proxies 8RRR’s up front is 15/50/205 and the rears are 15/50/235 but with fender flares I may go 245. But that depend on how much camber I can run or not. With the front T3 evolved RCA’s I have set on negative camber mode which is -3 plus my camber plate up front I can adjust it even more. B

So my car has been upgraded in all areas. So currently I have Troy Emrish Stage 2 coil-overs with camber & caster plate, Troy Emrish KA/SR front sway bar & rear 3 way adjustable sway bar, T3 GTX2 front control arm & tension rod, T3 5/8” outer tie rod, T3 Evolved RCA’s, T3 evolved steering knuckles, T3 lightened billet hubs, and my rear cross member has been modified by DP racing for camber and BRE style 5/8” toe adjustment with an enlarged hole for a 3” exhaust, and my rear trailing arms have been modified by DP racing with all heim joints. I also have an idler arm with derlin bushings, T3 steering gear box brace and also T3 idler arm brace. I’m running wannabe 15x8 r type rims -5 offset front and -25 offset rear. My alignment for the front is -3 camber, and rear is -2 camber, front toe is .5 out, and rear toe is .5 in. With castor I made it as more positive as I can do drive better in a straight line. I also have wilwood front and rear brake with drilled and solid rotors. SO MY BIGGEST ISSUE IS MY CAR DOESNT FEEL SAFE TO DRIVE. It’s the only car I’ve owned that it’s a little scary to drive. So on the freeway all the grooves in the road my car wants to steer turn left or right into the grooves like my car is on a rail like a train. So if their grooves in the line my car may want to steer towards the right or left. So my cars kinda all over the road. I am able to correct but at any moment or if I’m going faster than 70mph it’s nerve racking that my car will have a mind of its own and will want to follow where the line in the road are. Idk if this has anything to do with having the T3 gtx suspension parts bc the ball joint sits 2” higher. So what I did is find my old front Lca and cut the ends off and welded in a heim joint similar to jbcoachworks kit, and I ordered oem ball joints, and I’m gonna see changing my front control arm will help my car suspension better. I also have the stock tension rod but the bushings are worn out and I need different style end links bc the T3 comes with end links and 5 mounting points. What I want to do is sell my T3 gtx kit and buy FUTOFAB or Troy Emrish front Lca and tension rods to more of a stock oem set up. If this doesn’t fix it then I want to buy a rack and pinion set up from tsr or datsport or whoever has one for sale and possible electric power steering kit from silver mine for future steering and suspension upgrades.