Blue720

Initially, after a long cold winter it had no fire from either coil. After breaking the coil terminals (they just twisted off when I attempted to loosen the bolts), I replaced the coils but still got no fire, so I replaced the IC Ignition unit inside the distributor. In order to do that I had to remove the 'reluctor', and I attempted to put it back exactly as I found it. I now had fire at the coil but intermittent spark at the plugs. So I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I now have good spark at all 8 plugs, but it will not start. From your post it sounds like I may have gotten the 'reluctor' a degree or two off and my timing may be off. I didn't know if the 'reluctor' mattered as it pertains to timing, so next time I'm out there, I'll check the timing and see if I can adjust it. Thank you.

Just wish I knew how important that 'reluctor' part needs to be reinstalled. It's just round, with a roll pin to keep it in place. I did my best to put it back where it was, but without any actual oem markings I can't be sure. I just eyeballed it and 'tapped' it back on. Made a little scratch on the out side of the distributor so I could keep track of it, but it wasn't a precision effort. It cranks strong, so I don't think the starter is the issue. It used to start immediately without much cranking at all. Just fired off and ran for 40yrs

Hard to say how that might have happened. It's always run fine. Just sat in the snow all winter, and then wouldn't start this spring. I haven't moved the distributor, just changed out the distributor "IC ignition unit" module. Do wonder how important the "reluctor" being reinstalled 'exactly' as it came off. I could be off a degree or so because there are no alignment marks. I attempted to get it back exactly as it came off, but not sure how to tell. It seems that shouldn't matter, but maybe it does. If anyone knows how to verify, it would be greatly appreciated.

Damn thing still won't start. Had to drag it out of the way. Now I got spark at all 8 plugs, but it won't pop off. Poured some good gas in the carb, and still nothin. Cranks, but it hits a 'hard' spot and stops, drags, then it cranks, hits a 'hard' spot, drags...etc. Maybe the starter is weak, but not sure what's causing the 'hard' spot. Like a clunk, but then it cranks again. Was thinking maybe water in the gas, but pouring gas in the carb I thought would circumvent that.

Went out to check some more things. Brought a spark plug tester, and all 8 are working fine. Checked all the plug wires and they're all within spec (~10K, manuals said <30K). Got good fire going to the cap from both coils, but I get slow intermittent spark at the plugs...so when the new cap n rotor show up next week, hopefully I can back it out of the drive and get it out of the way. Quite the headache it's been. Not sure what would make the cap n rotor work so poorly because I replaced it probably less than 5K miles, but it sat all winter in the cold. Contacts don't look corroded, but something isn't happening in there.

In this picture, they call it a 'reluctor' and its held in place by the roll pin. Can it be put back on incorrectly? I tried to align it the same way I took it off. Was hoping it didn't impact the spark

Any thoughts on proper install, alignment of the 'reflector' in the distributor? I had to remove it, and I think I put it back the way it was, but I'd like to verify I've got it right.

got the 'new' one, installed it, and I get fire from both coils. Still won't start though, so I pulled some plugs/wires and sure enough, intermittent spark. Going to replace the cap/rotor and maybe the plugs if they aren't firing after the cap/rotor replacement. One thing I'm concerned about is the 'reflector' as its called above. I made a mark so I could reinstall it after I removed it, but there is no index or other alignment key, just the roll pin. How important is it that the reflector is put back 'exactly' as it was? I could be off a degree one way or the other? Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Best place to source a cap n rotor? Plugs/Wires?

I'll try that if this 'new' used one doesn't work. Supposed to show up today. Will report back. Currently the old one is off the vehicle

I attempted to follow that routine while it was on the truck, and I wasn't getting the voltages I expect from I and E poles. The B pole showed 12volts. That's what initially made me think my module must be bad. However I asked in a previous post if I had to ground both coils because the routine above isn't clear about it. Now that I've got the module out of the truck and home in my garage, I was wondering how to bench test it to verify it being bad, and when I get this 'new' one from ebay it would be nice to verify it being good.

I've got the 3 pin module. I'm not sure what the other PINS are even for(I suspect Tachometer), but the 5 PIN module is physically larger and won't even fit into my distributor. I was in somewhat of a hurry and didn't grab anything else. Didn't really see anything I needed. My rig is pretty much stock and has all it's parts. Might have been able to pull the coolant reservoir as mine is cracked, but it's been held together by a piece of vinyl tape for years. I suspect any 3 pin module would be the right one, but I don't have any proof of that. Wish I knew how to bench test the module I pulled from my distributor, just to verify it's the problem. My rig has all the symptoms, but my coils don't fire and they're getting 12 volts. I grounded the distributor and cleaned up all the connections...get nothing. I just found a 3 pin on ebay, I guess I'll gamble the $45

Went out to Braven today and the flatbed kingcab was missing the entire distributor, and the yellow regular cab had a 5 terminal ignition module. Not sure where to source from now.

I went on the Braven website, and tried their interface, but it said they don't have any early 80's Nissans. I found a hardbody 86 with a V6 Edit: Looked again and found the two 1983 Datsun rigs. Thanks

I didn't see it there, so I looked in the door jam and found a sticker. I should have grabbed the registration, but I didn't

not sure where the rest of the VIN is. The sticker only shows those 8 digits. Took a picture of it, but don't know how to post it