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wayno last won the day on February 19

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About wayno

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  1. I have found this update to be very confusing, I logged in yesterday without issues, yet today when I tried logging in it would not let me in, keeping in mind what Charlie said about being locked out after 3 tries I closed the window after 2 tries and opened a new window to try again and I was now already logged in, my point is even though it kept saying I was not logged in I was logged in when I opened a new window. I just tried posting a photo from my computer as someone mentioned it could be done but I was not successful, so I checked the properties of both photos posted above, it appears that photos still need a host, is this correct?
  2. wayno

    620 Land Speed Record

    Well my back room isn't under water, but it is dark and cooler in that room compared to the rest of the house. They are the way I got them, but they did get wet at Canby, that is the first time they have been wet in my possession, they have a spot on the shelf next to the Weber stuff I have. Someone spent a lot of time making them, the reason for them being built up like they are is a mystery to me, at Canby it was mentioned that maybe they are so heavy to offset the engine torque created by them, I laughed at that suggestion.
  3. wayno

    Sd22 detonation knock

    Keep in mind that someone may have fiddled with the IP timing, you mentioned it sat for a long time, who knows what has been done to it. I mentioned that vacuum line because if the stock line has a crack it will create issues, mostly an idle issue, does your engine idle smoothly at around 800rpms, does it blow black smoke out the tailpipe when you rev it? A cracked diaphragm will have the same issues as a cracked vacuum line going from the throttle body to the IP(injection pump), it would likely run rich(blow black smoke out the tailpipe), if your not blowing a lot of black smoke out the tailpipe then your vacuum line and diaphragm are likely OK. I have 2 SD series engines, they are timed differently, one has this sort of knocking sound, I believe that when the former owner put the home made turbocharger on it he fiddled with the injection pump timing, I removed the turbocharger as the waste gate was wired shut which is not a good sign, I ran the engine without the turbo for years with it timed that way, it had alright power but was hard to start when the block is cold, nearly impossible to start under 40 degrees, about a year ago I installed a smaller turbocharger on that engine than it had when I bought it, it is still hard to start but has lots of power on the freeway. My other SD engine which has had a turbocharger on it since I bought it starts easy even when cold out, it has never made that knocking sound, that engine is a different animal, the turbo and injection pump have been modified, it is set up for low end torque, it really isn't set up for freeway driving. Does your engine idle smoothly, it would help if you went into more detail, does it start hard or easy(how long does it turn over before hitting), does it blow a lot of white smoke out the tailpipe when first started, how long does it blow white smoke, does that smoke smell funny? Have you ever used ether to start the engine? Another thing I just thought of is the gear that is connected to the IP has a set of springs on it, it changes the timing of the IP according to RPMs, if that mechanism is rusted solid, the timing of the IP will not be correct at higher RPMs, is the knock load related, meaning do you hear the knock more when speeding up fast rather than slowly getting up to speed?
  4. wayno

    Sd22 detonation knock

    OK, I do not know everything about these small diesel engines, but I will try to tell you what I believe I know. The diaphragm has a spring that tries to floor the injection pump rack(rich), the venturi in the throttle body(carb looking thing) is what pulls the rack back to the idle position, when you let off the pedal that cuts off the air creating a lot of vacuum in the venturi which pulls the rack to the idle position, when you give it pedal, that creates less vacuum which lets the injection pump rack move to a richer position. If that venturi is blocked, or if that vacuum line going to the rack/IP from the throttle body has a crack(air leak) in it, it causes issues like a lot of black smoke out the tailpipe, if the diaphragm has a crack in it you will have the same issue(black smoke coming out of the tailpipe), you will also have an elevated idle as the engine is getting lots of fuel but no air. If it sat a long time the diaphragm could have dried out, if that has happened and the injection pump diaphragm may not move like it should, that could also cause a rich or lean issue, lean usually means no power, rich creates black smoke out the tailpipe, it depends on what position the rack was in when it sat, this depends on if the rack is controlled by a choke cable or if it still has the stock electrical system with a IP controller and a DPC module, does the engine quit when the key is turned off or do you use a choke cable to start/stop the engine? If you have white smoke coming out the tailpipe you likely have low compression, bad glow plugs, a wore out injection pump, or a combination of all of the mentioned plus other stuff I know nothing about. Keep in mind that diesel engines do not sound like gas engines, they have there own special sounds, the injection pump advanced or retarded too much can make them knock or make them hard to start, but it also can give them more power and that makes them way louder which sounds like rod noise. I have found that if they run good and don't smoke you have a winner, it they have issues then they are a headache, they tend to get parked when they have issues, this likely means you are the proud owner of some ones else's headache.
  5. wayno

    620 Land Speed Record

    I don't recall saying they were pretty, unless I said they were pretty ugly, and they are very heavy. The guy selling them sent a photo of them mounted in a 510 I believe, the stock down draft manifold mounted to these extension runners barely cleared the strut tower, it was very close to hitting the sheet metal in the photo, I cannot find the photo, it may be in the old classifieds somewhere, it is not in my gmail account. Yes they have coolant holes in them. They also have angled fins inside the intake tubes at both ends about an inch in, 4 fins in all in each hole, they appear to make the air spin or purposely cause turbulence, the fins are not installed with any kind of uniformity, nor are the fins all the same size or mounted in the same spots, most are mounted around 180 degrees from the other, some touch in the middle, others do not touch, one of the fins is only 90 degrees off set from the other fin, they are obviously home made, the insides of the holes are fairly smooth except for the fins sticking out, way smoother than the outside of the manifolds. I do not have a camera at this time, also if I try messing around with photos on this computer the CPU overheats(over 215 degrees) and Windows eventually gets corrupted, so I basically use this computer to check my emails and lurk on the 2 forums I frequent these days, I rarely log in anymore.
  6. wayno

    NapZ in my '64 320

    My fuel gauge does not work backwards, empty is still empty even though the truck is negative ground now and no wires were changed on the gauge, but I do not know how Mike wired everything, but like I said he went by mileage on the fuel, the gauge didn't work, and when I pulled the sender the float had multiple holes in it, he also used a aftermarket temp gauge, I expect that he changed nothing on that gauge cluster wiring wise. Like I said, when the ignition is not on, the temp needle rest on the "H", when the ignition is on it drops to the "C", I do not know what will happen to the gauge if the juice is reversed, it may smoke the gauge.
  7. wayno

    620 Land Speed Record

    I am not sure I understand how this works, what I see is the carbs pointed backwards and when the truck is moving forward it seems to me that the air going by the carbs would try to suck air out of them being the air around them is moving towards the windshield, the faster one goes the more suction that is created, velocity stacks would make it even worse. This is what I see, now I am no means any kind of expert on this subject. I always thought that the stock SU carb manifold was good because there was basically only one turn the air mixture had to make before entering the cylinders. I have a set of 7 inch intake manifold extensions for the L block with fins inside that make the air spin down the extensions after going thru the stock intake/carbs(was on a 510 with a stock single carb manifold, it had a Weber), I have been told the extensions give it more torque, I do not know if that is true, but they were strange extensions so I bought them to keep them from being scrapped, I took them to Canby and they drew a lot of attention, especially being they are so heavy. I also thought it was better to have all intake tubes the same length, and the exhaust tubes a certain length also to help with exhaust flow(scavenging), I am asking about all this as this is how I learn how things work, getting the info from the folks doing it is the best way.
  8. wayno

    NapZ in my '64 320

    One has to keep in mind that these trucks were positive ground with a generator, I successfully got the fuel gauge to work negative ground on my NL320 I bought from Mike K, but that gauge rests at empty when the ignition is off, but the temp gauge rests on full hot when the ignition is off, not sure if it will work negative ground, so far I have not tried as Mike had an aftermarket temp gauge installed so I didn't even bother to try, but he was using mileage for the fuel gauge, I needed to fix that.
  9. wayno

    Differences Between 80-82 720s and 83+?

    OK, your 1981 Datsun 720 has non-vented rotors, these type of spindle assemblies are not compatible with vented rotor types and that is what the belltech drop spindles are made for, so if you want to use drop spindles just buy them(belltech 2005) and then use your hubs and put 86+ rotors on them, buy 86+ calipers/pads, rubber brake lines and then put it all on to your existing ball joints if they are good/serviceable. There is a little more involved with the modification like the lower tie rod assemblies need shortened a little, I am sure someone that has done it will chime in with how much needs to be taken off of them.
  10. wayno

    Pinging under power and drive train Q's

    So I had/have the same issue, originally I had the cam timed wrong and it was easy to time it so it didn't knock/ping that much, only when hot did it knock/ping slightly when going up a slight incline, if I floored it or let off it quit knocking/pinging. I re-timed the cam on all my L blocks, on my 520 I run non-ethanol premium so not much changed, but the work truck I burn regular, I have a reason to burn regular(lets leave it at that), originally I had the work truck set at 6/7 degrees BTDC and it ran fine, but when I re-timed the cam it knocked/pinged like crazy, I kept retarding it a degree at a time till it quit knocking/pinging for the most part, it only knocks/pings when it starts getting warm(around 5/8ths over on the temp gauge) going up slight incline, I ended up at 0 degrees BTDC before it was over, it is the only place it will run without knocking/pinging, to fix it properly I will have to re-curve the distributor so it doesn't advance so much, then I will be able to time it properly, until then I am at 0 degrees BTDC, I have plenty of power as the engine is an LZ23, but the truck weighs 3900lbs and I haul a trailer full of pressure washing equipment, I am pushing 6000lbs plus most the time, so when climbing a slight incline my foot is into the pedal around half way, maybe a little more when raining or bucking a head wind, I was floored most the time(slight incline) when I had an L20b in it. Changing the rear gears is easy in an H190, first you need to find a 3.90 gearset/pumpkin from a Datsun 720, there are lots of them out there, should be able to get one for under $150.00/$200.00 plus shipping if you don't have one in your area, then you drain the fluid out of the rear axle, then remove the brake lines from the backing plate, disconnect the e-brake cable in the middle(521), remove the driveline from the axle(do not pull it out, just push it to the side, remove the 4 nuts on each side holding the backing plates on, then slide the axles out around 4 inches, remove the 10 nuts holding the rear pumpkin in and then drop it out, clean everything up and put the new to you 390 gearset in and fill it up with gear oil, you are then good to go. Gearsets/pumpkins should have less than an 1/8 play in the pinion flange, any more play and I don't use them if I can help it and I have never sold one with more, my H190 LSD has more but it is an LSD so I live with it as it doesn't knock or make noise. I had 437 gears in my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck for years, it ran just under 4000rpms at around 70mph as I recall, I got used to it, my L20b lasted 15 years that way, I now have 4.625 gears in it since making it a dump truck, I like it better with them gears as my truck weighs a lot now since making it a dump bed(3900lbs), I used to just turn the radio up louder to drowned out the engine noise, now I cannot hear the radio because I need a better muffler, another thing I will eventually get around to. I run non-ethanol premium in every gas engine I own except the work truck and they are timed properly/normally, all the L blocks have peanut heads on them, I believe they are all around 8.9 to 1 compression ratio, the LZ23 was the best upgrade I have ever made to my work truck, I hardly ever have to floor it anymore.
  11. wayno

    1969 roadster a true barn find.

    Them clips are mounted on the rear door pillar right in front of the convertible top frame hold down adjuster, 2 screws hold it on, it is meant for the cable that goes thru the top inside door flaps from that point to the windshield area where the tang sticks down on the top frame, I am not even using that on my top as until the last 10 years I had a hard top, and it doesn't even get driven anymore since putting the rag top on, I have driven it maybe 4 times in the last 10 years, so when I do drive it the top is down or completely off.
  12. wayno

    1984 Nissan/Datsun 2.4 Truck will not start. Please Help!

    I just recently moved my 521 cab to a 1986 Nissan 720 chassis and I used a 1980 Datsun 720 wiring harness, I had to jump the power wire to the 1986 fuel pump and that made it run all the time when the ignition is on which I really don't care because it has a return line so it cycles this crap fuel they sell now days, well all of a sudden my fuel pump started working intermittently, I checked the power to the pump and it had power, well the issue turned out to be the stock ground wire, if I wiggled that wire it would sometimes turn on briefly, so I added another ground wire and used the fuel filter mount bracket/clip mount screws for the new ground and I spliced into the stock ground wire with one of those vampire type clips that one uses pliers to connect them, it has worked great ever since. Grounds are very important in these 720 wiring harnesses.
  13. wayno

    Info on seats for my truck

    The door mirrors were installed by the dealers, there likely were hundreds of different types depending on what dealer and where they were sold, most installed big ugly mirrors, find something vintage you like and install them. What exactly is wrong with your instrument cluster? Do you have your bench seat or at least the frame, if you have the sliders you could put them on a 620 bench seat and use that, 520/521 bench seats are the same except for maybe the seat material design.
  14. wayno

    Wiring near Heater Core/Glove Box

    If 4wd it could be console gauge wiring/plug? What color is the plug/connecter, white, black?
  15. wayno

    Headlights won’t turn on

    Does the 620 have fusible links?

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