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906-Runner

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    Yooper Peninsula
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    1984 Datsun 720

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  1. Figured out why the idle was messed up. So I checked the plugs and wires and found a nick in two wires and two burnt plugs(intake side), so I replaced all the plugs as well as the wires. Figuring I’d solved the problem I started the truck and it ran a little better, it would just die really quick. Turns out a cap on a vacuum line hidden behind some stuff had cracked and then fallen off so it was pulling too much air in
  2. So right off the bat I just got new plugs and wires cause a connector in one of the old wires was broken. Once those get installed I'll probably have to reset my choke to account for the cold weather correct? How would I go about doing that, same as I did when it was warm outside?
  3. Only one side of the carb was black. How would one go about making sure the choke is operating properly. The temperature here has dropped significantly since I tuned the carb so might that be my issue?
  4. I did have the alternator tested before I even put it in the truck and verified it’s good. Even now it’s in the truck it’s reading like 14.3v with the engine running. Would a bad alternator cause the idle to be choppy? It almost feels like a misfire cause of the way it sputters when I give it gas
  5. So I did a little looking up on these forums but couldn’t really find a definitive answer to my problem. So two weeks ago the remanufactured alternator I got crapped out on me. Just today I got around to putting the replacement in and getting it running. After sitting that long I expected it to not start easily and the carb needed cleaning anyway cause one barrel was all black inside. After I got it all cleaned up and back together I had to jump the battery using my wife’s car but it won’t stay running. It has a Weber carb with an electric choke that’s working, but I have to keep pumping the gas to keep the truck running and as soon as I let off the gas the idle gets choppy and then it dies. I’m thinking it may be misfiring cause of the black soot in the carb but it ran good up until the alternator crapped out on me. What sort of ideas do you guys have for me to get it back up to snuff so I can start daily driving this truck again?
  6. So the alternator from a D21 will be a direct bolt on swap? Might it be possible to rebuild the aftermarket one I have or would that be useless?
  7. I've also been trying to read up on potential alternator upgrades as well as rebuilding the OEM unit. What have people done as far as upgrades? If the stock unit is really only way to go does someone have a used one they want to get rid of?
  8. I bough my 1984 Nissan/Datsun 720 about a two months ago, the alternator wasnt charging the battery so I got it tested. Turns out it was bad so I replaced it with a remanufactured one fron my local parts store. Fast forward a month and a half of everything going fine until today. As I'm driving along, the truck up and dies so I coasted to the side of the road and turned the key off. Tried to start the truck but nothing happened, no crank at all. Head lights, tail lights, radio, and door chime all still work. Got a buddy to jump the truck and it ran good but as soon as the jumper cables got disconnected the battery light comes on and the truck slowly starts to die. Was able to drive it to a place to park overnight after jumping it four times over the stretch of 5 miles. Any ideas out there as to what it might be? im thinking its probably the alternator, but seems like if it was a bad one it wouldve been giving me problems all along?
  9. So I have a 1984 Datsun 720 single cab. The drivers door glass has a large chip out of the top of the glass that makes noise on the road. I’m able to get a window glass from an early model hardbody from my local junkyard. Has anyone tried this? Id like to know before I go pull the window and buy it cause they want $60 for it
  10. So then I guess what I'm wondering is this; if I pull the KA24/71C out of a 4x4 D21 I theoretically wouldn't have to do as much screwing around to get it in the truck(mounts are available to be bought)? But then I'd want to think about getting the intake maifold and wiring harness from a car KA24? And then it'd just be figuring out the wiring for the injectors etc.
  11. I just recently bought a 1984 Nissan/Datsun 720. It's a single cab 5 speed 4x4 with 122k miles. The previous owner out in a 32/36 Weber carb so it runs good but its in need of a rebuild. I stumbled uppon this thread and am intrigued by the work @Crytek89 has done swapping in a KA24DE into his 720. While my truck still runs and drives I am pondering the possibilty of accumulating parts based off your list to eventually do this myself once it is no longer my daily driver. That being said I have a few questions for you and others who have done this swap. Regarding the motor I have found there are two options, FWD and RWD; logic would say get a RWD motor but most of the ones I have found are out of S14 or 240sx and are more expensive. Would a FWD motor work? Visually I can't really tell the difference between the FWD and RWD motors. Next would pertain to the wiring aspect of the fuel injection system. Did you go with a standalone ecu, or did you reuse the KA24DE ecu? I'm sure ill have to get wiring diagrams of my truck as well as whatever vehicle my donor motor comes out of to figure out my wiring. Next is mounts. I see that @]2eDeYemakes mounts for the 620 pickup that seems to work for this swap but need minor modification? Other than motor mounts, all existing mounts will work? And finally Im wondering about the oil pan setup. I know it needs to be modified and cut/rewelded. will my truck being a 4x4 change anything? Will it clear the front differential or will I have to go another route? This is not a project I plan on tackling in the immediate future; but would like to start gathering parts now. Any help/info/advice from all you would be great.
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