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Everything posted by Mspencer

  1. Anyone have a template? or a lead on a center console, i will be modifying it a bit so dont need one in pefect conditon. PO took it out completly so have nothing to work with. thank you.
  2. The PO has bypassed the heater in the engine compartment so i expect it was leaking inside. I have pulled the heater\fan box and will be replacing the short and long hose under the dash and also wanted to see if there is a "Test" to see where the heater may be leaking? I have also removed the Heater Valve and cleaning that up and i expect that it may also be suspect of leaking. Any guidance figuring this out is greating appricated.
  3. Well not really replacing it, there was no rubber under the wing windows so am installing new ones. on the bottom of the new rubber are 2 rubber posts shown in the photo. They seem higher then i expected, is this normal? also on the under side there is a spot that says "cut out" if i do it, it would expose the painted metal under it. 1970 R1600 Thanks, just some of the questions i have trying to pick up where the PO left off.
  4. i dont know what this is ? i have a manual choke, it works well so what is this for? if it is smog related can i remove it? i While i am asking, what are these "ports" for? Thanks for the help.
  5. I took my temp gauge out and found the issue, i think. the needle is disconnected from the actuator not sure how to reconnect it. 1970 R1600.
  6. Looks like the previous owner replaced the sending unit, i traced the wire "new" to a temp aftermarket gauge up in the dash, it doesn't work either. I did find the yellow wire that was disconnected on the drivers side fender. i grounded it and nothing on the gauge in fact i don't even see the needle! So i guess its broken. I expect the replacement is hard to find and very expensive.
  7. the gauge is not working no reading at all. the amp gauge is also looks to be off. Do i need to remove the dash to get the gauge out?
  8. I started over, but pulled 2 shims off the brake cylinder then fitted the drum, it went on nicely. Then added the 2 shims back in. The wheel now turns freely and the brakes work! Thanks for the help.
  9. So, pulled the wheel, the hub was a little hard to get off but no different then any other hub. Pulled the brake cylinder and replaced the plunger and seals. pulled the adjuster out to clean it up and replaced it. now putting the hub back on with the adjuster all the way out should just slide in. Not the case here. I can squeeze it on and spin it to align the studs but if i push the hub in it firms up quickly to the point i cant trun the wheel at all. its a simple system but what am i missing? the green spring is in the top and the other is set at the bottom, the hand brake adjuster is through the slot on the rear shoe, everything looks like it did when i pulled them off. i took Pics and matched them up. With the rear-end off the ground i can start the car and put it in first and the drivers side wheel will spin but nothing on the passenger side. Note: this is a new car for me, only had it a few weeks and it was not working when i got it. i have the engine running now but haven't driven it yet. Was hoping to be able to do that as soon as the brakes were fixed so don't know if there is another issue. Just seems i am missing something. i would post a Pic but have not figured out the "Insert image from URL" yet. thank you for your guidance.
  10. only have had the car for a few weeks, and cleaning it up while waiting for parts. replaced the starter, the plugs, cap and rotor. the car starts right up, don't need to give it any gas but the idle is at 1800 rpm so after it warmed up i adjusted the Idle so now its between 950 and 1k. the timing shows 16 at 600. that idle seems low but i will give it shot, any guidance here is appreciated. the timing marks are interesting, as i understand it, the center mark is TDC and the other marks are 5 degrees thank you.
  11. i was able to swap out the stater and we are good! thank you for your help.
  12. Thanks that was very helpful. I was able to find the part as i needed the rubber cover as well, on line and its on its way. Thank again for all your help.
  13. sorry to bug you on this, but what vendor or site has these? i have only found one vendor and you have to send the order in an email and not sure the part i am looking for is it. Is there a better site to order this parts from? Thanks again.
  14. On my 1970 1600, the rear (r) brake cylinder is leaking, and I am looking for a rebuild kit. I have found several online, but with the shipping delays I wanted to know if anyone had a part number, I can ask my local parts dealer to see if they can get it much sooner. Thanks, just trying to get it back on the road as soon as i can.
  15. Shanking them, sure sounds like liquid, i will weigh them and see if there is much of a difference.
  16. I have not worked on these SU R16 before so i wanted to check in before moving forward. Each float has liquid in them just a little (so i think) i cleaned up the floats and looked at each under a magnifying glass but don't see any holes? i have let then sit on a paper towel for 5 min on each side and no wet spots on the towel. So, i assume the floats should be empty, If i need new floats i am not sure where to get them? i have only found Kits that start around $400 that include new floats. the kits seem overkill for floats with a leak. thanks
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