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Posts posted by tsekc

  1. Thanks for the response. I have that pic from the Service Manual. It would make it appear that the supply port points aft, but doesn't clearly show if pointing up or down. Mine points up. I tried it down and I think it's better. I saw another diagram that almost made it look as though it pointed forward. 

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  2. Does anyone have a picture of the banjo fitting on the front brake at the wheel cylinder that will show the correct orientation? Mine had/has the supply port pointing up and aft, and it does not seem quite right. The brake hoses come close to contacting the suspension when turned to the stops.



  3. On 6/16/2021 at 11:47 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Basically all you need is a dial indicator.

    Remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are adjusted correctly.

    Make sure your TDC pointer is accurate and bring the motor to TDC. You're checking the rear cylinder at "split overlap".

    Set the dial indicator on the #4 intake valve then back the motor up until the valve stops moving (closed).

    Zero the indicator.

    Bring the motor slowly up to TDC and watch the dial indicator. When it's at TDC, write down the measurement (should be something like .100" for a stock cam).

    With the motor still at TDC, set the indicator up on the exhaust valve and zero it out.

    Turn the motor until the exhaust valve stops moving (closed) and take that reading.

    For the sake of this discussion, if the exhaust reading is .090" and the intake reading is .100" then your cam is .010" advanced, which is good for a L motor.

    Straight up is ok (.095" and .095"), and retarded (higher number on exhaust than on intake) is not great.


    Thanks! Very clear instructions. I'll give it a try when I put my engine back together. 


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  4. On 5/28/2021 at 2:24 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    No special tools other than that gauge I linked above. You use the TDC pointer, and no, you don't need cam specs.


    22REs are point and shoot. There's not a lot you can do to them, since they run pretty well in stock form. I deleted all the emissions stuff from the one in my ROver, and all that I removed was a handful of hoses and a couple vacuum valves.


    The RD350 is a fun bike. My buddy brought over his RZ350 a few weeks ago and let me take it for a spin. Brought back memories.


    So yeah, not special tools required, except the wobbly arm dial indicator. You can even do it with feeler gauges, but that's a pain.

    Stroffregen: you referenced setting up the cam timing using a dial indicator several times. Can you give a quick tutorial on how to do that?

    Thanks. T

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