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Posts posted by njp.18

  1. Hey guys, I was wondering what the difference would look like if I put a 15x6 wheel with a 3.75 backspace on my 521 vs a 15x7 wheel with a 4 inch backspace. I know the less backspacing the wheel has, the more the tire will stick out but my 521 has the stock 14x6's on it with 195 75 r14's and I don't know the stock offset/backspacing. It looks like that set up is almost identical to if I were to I put 195 70 r15s on it but I'm not sure about whether I should get 15x6 or the 15x7 because of the backspacing differences. My truck sits basically stock with a 1inch lowering drop block in the back.

  2. 9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    There may be a reason for including a new push rod. Compare them. Again the push rod is adjustable for play so not that important.


    With the engine running and clutch pedal down, slowly shift into reverse. Is there any slight sound of the gears 'rubbing'? If there is then the clutch is not fully disengaged. There are many causes for this.

    just checked and no sound of rubbing. when installing the slave, I was supposed to measure the 2mm of free play when there was no fluid in the cylinder, correct? Cuz right now, there's no free play but I would think that's because I can't push the rod any further cuz its filled with fluid?

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

    Unless someone replaced the push rod, it's the correct length. Besides, it's adjustable.


    What can happen is the release bearing housing, the thing that holds the release bearing, is matched to the pressure plate and they must stay together. If the transmission is replaced and the release bearing housing that came with it is used, it could be from anything. The release bearing collars come in many different length to reflect the different heights of all the pressure plates that are available. This allows the slave, push rod and clutch arm to push through the same position geometry. 


    Make sure the free play or push rod/clutch arm clearance is 2mm. Make sure that the clutch hydraulic system is completely bled of any air.

    my new slave cylinder came with a new push rod so I did replace it. I have the clearance of the push rod/clutch arm a tad bit more than 2mm which is why I was wondering if you guys have any idea on if more or less free play/ having the rod longer or shorter would cause difficulty shifting... so I know which way to adjust it if it can any effect on shifting gears

    • Like 1
  4. 22 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    With out the spring to retract the slave, the weight of the fluid above the slave is probably pushing the clutch arm and the release bearing is rubbing the diaphragm fingers. Google wouldn't play that clip for me without some kind of sign in permission.

    there was a nut below the shifter under the car that was loose causing the washer to rattle around. tightened it up and no noise. and just out of curiosity, if the slave rod is too short, that would cause shifting into gears to be more difficult right, or if the rod is too long?

    • Like 1
  5. I replaced the slave cylinder and the shift boot and took it for a drive and now have this sound coming from the shifter area. Is anyone familiar with this? I do not have the spring on the slave yet as mine broke taking it off and I do have a little more than 2mm gap when slave is bottomed out and clutch lever arm is pushed back. Heres a link with the video of the sound im talking about. https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1twBmhjcS74Xx8PPHnNwXCq0SCwuB3-KttVAoangBxaQ/edit?usp=sharing

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:
    4 hours ago, d.p said:

    Go to any parts store and buy a set of throttle springs.  Or get it from a Amazon 


    Dorman 59207 Throttle Return Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HZKGCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PMW0P6DSC37NXVSNPEZJ

    I had went to the Nissan dealer at first and the parts guy had told me that I would have had to buy 10 of them so I said forget about it and that's when I came home and hopped on the forum but then found out that if I ordered it from my own computer, it'd allow me to order just 1 of them so should be all good, thanks guys



    • Like 2
  7. On 12/15/2015 at 6:09 PM, dat521gatherer said:

    For reference there are actually two different springs with two different part numbers. If you look at the pic I posted the only difference is the orientation of the end hooks. The used one on the top has the correct orientation. In the future try part number 30533-76001 which replaces 30533-10600.



     do you have any of the springs you'd be willing to sell?

    • Like 1
  8. 20 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    No, it will fill while being bled. I recently lost my original slave and had to buy one of those cheap ass Chinese POS ones. I took it apart to make sure it didn't have chips from the machining and I lubed the 'rubber*' seal with brake fluid so it wouldn't be dry when used. 


    * originals are rubber or vibrin or something hard and they wear and last forever. This Piece Of Shit seal looked like cured RTV and was soft and floppy like a contact lens. I tell ya replacement parts are just the shittiest quality these days. A dealer slave is $72 this was $20 and I've seen them for $8.

    lmao yea I probably shouldn't of got an autozone one but we'll so how it goes.

    • Like 1
  9. 19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:


    Once you push the clutch arm away from the slave, so the release bearing is against the diaphragm fingers, the push rod is free to move.


    15 minutes ago, d.p said:

    Hey man hard to visualize , at least for me but this pic helped me a lot. 


    that pic helps a ton. thanks guys!

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

    The external spring will retract the slave piston into the bore. Adjust the nut so you can push the clutch arm away (against the spring) and wiggle the push rod  by 2mm. This will give the required 1.3mm between the release bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. Tighten lock nut and confirm there is a slight free play on the clutch pedal 

    if the push rod should be pushed into the slave all the way, how will I be able to wiggle it out 2mm?

    • Like 1

    On 12/14/2015 at 6:45 PM, wayno said:

    You have the rod with the nuts, correct?

    What you do is to push the rod as far into the slave as it will go(bottomed out), then you pull the fork as far away from the slave as it will go by hand.

    Now you adjust the nuts on the rod so that you have about 1/16th of an inch play with the fork as far back as it will go with the slave piston bottomed out, now bleed the system.

    The reason you do it this way is so the piston in the slave don't get pushed out of the slave and start puking all the fluid out.

    You can use a spring if you like, it might stop it from rattling down there if that is an issue, but it does nothing else important, as Nissan deleted the spring, the rod adjustment is the most important, sure having the spring on there might just pull the throw out bearing away from diaphragm fingers, but as long as you have the 1/16th inch play it will not cause damage, as Nissan deleted the spring. 

    The spring is optional in my opinion, nothing I have has a spring except maybe the 320s, they might have one, I have not been under there to look lately, so I don't remember.

    On 12/14/2015 at 6:46 PM, flatcat19 said:

    That will save a million headaches. Thank you.


    hey guys, I got a 521 as my first project car so I don't know much but I got my old slave off as it was leaking and am putting on my new one and have a question regarding where I should have the 1/16th inch of play. I understand that I push the rod as far down into the slave as it will go and then push the fork as far away from the truck as it can go but then, Should I have the nut on the rod where that the fork is 1/16inch away from being as far back as it can go Or have the nut on the rod be where the fork is 1/16 inch away from as far forward as it can go? Or neither?  haha. let me know, thanks guys.

    • Like 1
  12. 43 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    The return springs are, or should be, on the ends of the two e brake cables.

    On the same end that I included a photo of correct? I don't see anywhere where another spring can be attached to though. Unless they were just slipped over the cable but what use would that do.

  13. 14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

    Never trust a fuse by looks. Use a test lamp and check both sides to be sure power is going through the fuse.

    I put in a 10amp fuse and the cig lighter started working but not the dome light. hopefully just a burnt out bulb

  14. 30 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    Never trust a fuse by looks. Use a test lamp and check both sides to be sure power is going through the fuse.

    ok, I had used a multimeter on them. do you know if the correct amperages for the fuses for an l16 should be 10,15,10,15,15,15 ?

  15. 1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

    Looks like Lt Green/Red stripe. It goes to around the middle of the fuse box and does not need to ignition on to work. Its a 15 amp fuse and also powers the interior light. If the interior light works then the fuse is OK.


    To work, the cigar lighter needs to be well grounded to the metal dash. Make sure the lighter it tightly screwed on.

    hmmm my interior light does not work either but all the fuses in the fuse box are fine. is it possible that the wrong amperage fuse could do it cuz I just checked it and there's a 5amp in there. Ill switch the right one in there anyways but from left to right, the correct amperages for an l16 should be 10,15,10,15,15,15 correct?

  16. 33 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    Put the bulb back in. That's the sense wire and it needs more power than what an LED provides.

    ok. I put the probes on the battery and watched the meter while putting a quarter on the fuses while it was running and there was no change on the meter.

  17. 36 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

    The wire that makes up the leg if the "T" should have battery voltage with the ignition on.


    Can you post pictures of the alt wiring, and wiring at the regulator, showing all the wires at the harness side of the plug?

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FEpyMxHDDcnnAtqmmrR8XZ9-nQWH1FizMH6AkAXJxq4/edit?usp=sharing ill have to take off the reg tomorrow cuz im boutta go to work. I don't think it has to do w the reg tho as the problem was happening with the old reg I had and my new one.

  18. 18 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

    Do you get the same reading at the regulator on yellow?


    What do you get on the white with black stripe wire at the same plug on the alternator (ignition on, but not running)? 

    at the t on the alternator, I have the yellow wire and a green wire, not black. green is reading .03v and the yellow is now at .71 volts.

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