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MGTS

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Everything posted by MGTS

  1. The driveshaft yoke that goes into the end of my transmission is phuked. Is it possible to get a replacement? I'm not finding anything online. Is there a part number?
  2. Rotor was fine. So when I disconnected the mixture solenoid, it (surprise) changed the mixture. I have to compensate by opening the throttle a bit more, so instead of it taking on fuel from the idle mixture, it was taking fuel form the venturi
  3. I know where the idle speed screw is and how it works. By "against the stop" you mean do I have it turned in far enough that it won't turn any more? No. Things have not been adjusted since my initial idle speed set and the idle circuit was working perfectly then
  4. When I was originally getting idle set, it was behaving normally. I did standard lean drop, set idle to 700 via throttle plate screw, turn mixture screw in until it stumbled and back it out a half turn. Right now it's set at 700. I wanted to re set the idle after my finding and discovered this problem. I know for a fact the solenoid is working properly >Is the idle speed screw against the stop? What do you mean? It will go lower. I do know about having to adjust the throttle cable to get it to go lower
  5. Ok so it runs and idles great, but it's getting extra fuel from somewhere. When I turn the idle mixture screw in all the way, it doesn't hesitate or die. My assessment from reading the manual was that my mixture solenoid was stuck on all the time and that was causing my running issues
  6. IT RUNS! So forgetting to plug something back in actually helped me this time. I had unplugged the emissions computer to run come continuity tests on the wires and didn't bother to plug the wires back in. So when I reinstalled the carb today, it wouldn't idle because the fuel cut solenoid is connected to the emissions computer. Forgetting that I had left the computer unplugged, I jumped the leads for the fuel cut. It ran perfectly. Then I remembered that I have left things unplugged. Then I realized that I could unplug individual wires from the carb harness, so I unplugged the mixture solenoid
  7. @banzai510(hainz) Spring seems strong to me @datzenmike done and done
  8. @datzenmike You wanted to see the carb?
  9. I haven't found another switch like that. EGR is clean
  10. Finally found it in the manual. It's a 30,000 mile switch. It's an idiot light for the O2 sensor
  11. If it is the speed sensor, what does it affect? How does it work? It doesn't seem to make any sense
  12. Is this the speed sensor? I can't make sense of how it works
  13. Also, my main jets look really badly etched. Would this cause adverse running conditions, and where can I find new ones?
  14. Starts great. Idles great. Once warm, any sort of throttle from idle and it falls on its face. Doesn't usually completely die. Stumbles a lot at higher RPM. Manually choked it and that improves things greatly. So it's either getting too much air, or not enough fuel. I'm checking the boost controlled deceleration device. It might be out of adjustment and letting too much air in all the time
  15. Goody. Back to square one
  16. @datzenmike I saw your post from 2012 stating that the non-california carb main jet should be 107. Do you have any idea what the CA carb would be? My jet reads 94. The secondary is 170 which is on spec
  17. Replaced fuel cut solenoid. No change
  18. Figured as much. I only applied power long enough to ensure that it clicked on an off
  19. So just to humor myself, I did a manual check of the mixture and fuel cut solenoid. Directly connecting them to battery power. Mixture clicks. Fuel cut doesn't. I pulled it off and did a bench test too
  20. I have replaced the temp sender and the O2 sensor, I confirmed via multi meter that the throttle switch i working. I guess I have to follow the book and check all connections going to the computer. I should have tested the fuel cut solenoid when I rebuilt the carb.
  21. Manually choking it did cause it to run better, I ran it in the dark and didn't see any stray arcs
  22. First thing I did when I got it home was check compression. 180-185 in all cylinders. I will try to do a spark test later. Wouldn't that affect it running at idle? I did discover that my valve seals are leaking BAD, but I don't feel like that would affect the way its running this much In general, does this seem like an air, or fuel delivery problem?
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