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    Camden SC
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    71 Datsun 521, 66 Datsun Roadster, 70 Datsun Roadster, 99 Miata, 01 Toyota Tundra
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  1. Great reminder to double check my wiring. I was getting a voltage drop on the jumper I had hooked up from the choke. I re-wired both the choke and the solenoid and boom - problem solved. Thanks guys!
  2. Update: The cut-off solenoid arrived yesterday. Installed this morning. The threads are correct, but the fit is VERY tight - almost at an angle since it is up against the electric choke assembly. The 12MM hex fitting interfered with the housing but would turn with a little effort without binding. I did get it seated however and wired, but it would not idle. Ran like crap. Idle would not adjust, so I removed it, re-installed the idle jet ran great. Tried once more since I could have had it in wrong. No joy. It fits but something is very wrong. I put the old idle jet back and re-adjusted the idle. It runs fine and almost does not diesel, but it still does blip over a few times, which cannot be good for it, so back to the clutch lugging cut-off for now. What do y'all think the deal is with the cut-off solenoid? Any experience with this? PN 43928.060B
  3. I'll let you know if it works. One is on the way.
  4. Just to update y'all on my progress. Re-timed to 10 BTDC and still had a high idle. Took the carb off turned it upside down and fiddled with the primary butterfly thinking maybe it was open too much regardless of my fast idle screw adjustment. Looked OK, so I re-installed, adjusted again fired her up and running very nicely now. Oh the overheating issue was diagnosed after I replaced the thermostat (the old one tested OK) and the rad cap, I noticed I had apparently not ever checked my water level, and since the rad looked low, topping it off solved my problem - DUH! So now it is running nicely, but still dieseling. Redline support says it will not diesel if it is tuned properly. I'm calling Bull Shit on that claim and I have ordered a cut off solenoid for this carb. The clutch trick does work fine, but if my wife ever drives it that is not something I want to teach her. She was not a fan of me getting the 521 to begin with so... Thanks for all the comments and support.
  5. bansai, Got the 1/4 in thing from the Haynes Manual, but sounds like a useless shortcut since the oil pump came out easily once I jarred it loose. After a couple of tries I re-inserted it in the now correct position and it was a tooth off. Accounts for the terrible gas mileage I was getting. It now has plenty of travel for adjusting timing. Started up and adjusted the idle on my new Weber, then set the timing warm with vacuum advance unhooked at about 8 BTDC running a little fast, so reset the idle adjustments on the Weber to get it back down to maybe 800-1000 (by ear) and tried a test drive. Running better, but seems to be running on the hot side (needle far right but not pegged to H. Still Diesels like a freight train. Cannot "idle adjust" out the run-on. Too hot in the shop to continue today. Will play with it again tomorrow Still trying to get the accel linkage to work smoothly on the Weber. I obviously got the carb without the electric cut-off solenoid for the idle fuel jet. Can that be added, or did I not do enough research? I'll contact the vendor and discuss if I cannot get the run-on to stop. Anyway, thanks for all the help and comments. making progress, but I'll keep y'all posted as to final outcome.
  6. Thanks Mike - exactly what I was asking about. If I could figure out how to post pix, I have them, but the cam looks good as you have shown, so my timing issue is at the distributer. It appears that my dog is pointing slightly left of your pic (but not much) maybe 11:00 rather than 11:28. If that is the case, I am thinking that I can loosen the oil pump bolts, drop the pump 1/4 inch and maybe rotate the dog one tooth right? Having never done this I wanted to check. Also before breaking the stubborn pump loose wanted to know if I am doing the right thing. Thanks for the quick response. You guys ROCK!
  7. Long story made short: Bought a 521 which ran OK, but got terrible gas mileage and drained gas from the float chamber after a couple of days. Replaced fuel pump no help. Rebuilt carb - ran better but now I have dieseling (run-on). Still drained dry. Broke down and bought a Weber conversion kit. Still have run-on and fast idle. Timing cannot be set to 10 BTDC, so I started looking at timing. Cam sprocket looks OK (see pic) but distributer looks off. Set to middle it is way advanced of #1 plug. Retarded as much as possible (both adjustments) puts it close, but no room for tuning after start-up. (see pics) I think it may be a tooth off on the oil pump. The 11:28 alignment should be bottom left and top right, but mine looks bottom right and top left. Tried to drop the oil pump 1/4 inch to re-align per the Haynes book, but the pump will not drop (easily) Before I take drastic action (prying and pounding) thought a second/thiird/forth opinion would help. Maybe I am as good as I am going to get - maybe not. What say you guys? Having trouble uploading pix. Any help would be appreciated. Hope y'all can understand from the text
  8. Thanks for replies. I did finally find a picture on-line that shows the linkage. It is an ebay ad for a similar carb and has details from all angles. The internet is a marvel, even though it sometimes a 2-edged sword. Without groups like this most of my old cars would be in the scrap heap.
  9. Thanks for the diagram, and while it will help, I really need to see the linkage assembled and on the carb to figure out the geometry and where all the little bits fit together. I'll probably fumble through it in time, just looking for a short-cut and visual verification. BUT if you are serious about not needing your carb, I would love to buy it as a spare since I plan to keep the L-16 stock. It is the original Hitachi. PM or e-mail me if you are interested in selling your old carb. roadsterdude1600@gmail.com 843-729-4996.
  10. Just rebuilt the carb on my 71 521 (with replacement L-16) and took good pictures of all my jets and bleed valves pump etc. so it is back together BUT forgot to get good pictures of the linkages (choke & accel) before I disassembled, and as you probably know, every time something comes off another piece of linkage comes with it☺️ SO, I am looking for good carb pictures with the linkage visible. It is quite a puzzle. Any good pix on the forum that you can point me to? If not, can someone pull their breather and get a couple of pix for me? Be glad to return the favor. I feel like an idiot. You cannot take too many pictures when working with small parts.....
  11. Update: Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I finally traced it down. After disconnecting connector to the rear (taillights/license plate light and rear side markers, the front parking lights would remain on with no fuse blown, so I started disconnecting one thing at a time and isolated it in the left rear tail light. after thoroughly cleaning connections and applying some dielectric grease I have lights and no blown fuse any more. Hate electrical gremlins!!
  12. 1971 521. After I git the truck I realized the headlight switch was previously repaired and shorting out.. Would blow fuse immediately. I broke down and replaced the switch and the headlights are AOK now, but no tail lights/parking lights/side markers lic plate light etc an the first pull. I keep blowing the fuse even with the new switch. I know there are a bunch of lights that work on that circuit so tracing everything to find a short is a pretty big deal, but ongoing. I notice the way mine is wired that there is a wire going from the battery directly to the front of that fuse on the box (3rd from the left) Is that the correct set-up? Asking to see if there is a known issue with this circuit or do I just keep tracing wires in the harness. Am I correct that the dash lights are also on this circuit?
  13. Thank you for the great and insightful info. I have several Datsun Roadsters but this is my first truck and like the roadsters it appears that things changed during model years as the parts bins depleated, so you may not be true to a model year. That said, I think I can now rewire the six pin switch that I came across to work with my four pin connector. I would love to see a close-up of the 52136 switch on the site to see which 2 wires are not connected to the 4-pin connector, but I think I can figure that out. Will go back to the garage today for some trial & error, but you sent me in the right direction. I'll post the outcome.
  14. Great. I look forward to hearing from you!
  15. Thanks for the quick reply. The numbers do not match so it is a replacement engine, but the issue is really the headlight switch connector. My switch is bad, and has been "worked on" in the past. The plastic case is broken and the slider is likely shorting out. Blows a fuse each time it is used. I tried the new relay fix on this site before just pulling the switch and seeing it is broken. Looked on ebay and the replacement for a 521 is a larger switch with 6 pins. This one has 4 pins, and looks like the one on ebay for a 620 J15, but the 4 pins on mine are tighter together than the 620 connector pins which look to be the wide 6-pin connector with only 4 pins. This is confusing, and I am still looking around. May should post this under "electrical". Where is the best place to check for electrical parts?
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