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Skoob

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About Skoob

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Location
    West Seattle
  • Cars
    1962 Impala SS, 1968 Datsun 510, 1963 Lincoln Continental, 1989 Mitsubishi Delica
  • Interests
    Cool shit

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  1. I don't know what works homie, hence why I am asking in this forum comprised of potentially an abundance of folks that have done a swap like this. I can tell you with a piece of string my current cable is roughly 48" which I thought about wrapping behind the valve cover but it pinches at the firewall too much in my opinion. I thought maybe one is suppose to run across the valve cover which would be roughly 38.5" but not sure if that is an option with other available cables of similar type of cars. You are "king Rat" which means you are the GURU of all knowledge of "Ratsuns" /Datsuns AND the Ad
  2. I have a 68' Datsun 510 with SR20DE (I think S14?) and when I bought the car the throttle cable was way too long and not correct to the motor or car and I wanted to get a better one on. however most of the forums have some mixed options as in; 240sx or KA24DE OR maybe a SE-R throttle cable. Currently my setup "works" and I have throttle response from the pedal but the cable itself wraps around the inside of the engine bay and looks like crap. I can't seem to find anyone that can just tell me the exact cable to buy that will work and not wrap around the moon. Any help on which cable to use is a
  3. Thank you for your help. I decided to just run a separate fuse block to run all my new stuff to; fan, running lights, various electronics. High Beams still stuck on probably the relay even after cleaning it and my switch. So I throw yellow fogs in the middle and called it a day. Thanks again for the help
  4. I just ordered the H4 conversion for the headlights...F the Bs... As for the temp, the saga continues...(until my aftermarket gauge gets here)
  5. banzai510: I assume I will need a new relay regardless because I tried to clean it up a bit and check connections. I seem to be getting 9volts roughly across all of the headlight sockets so I assume power is making it to the sockets. Yet the driver side doesn't come on and the high beams stuck on...wouldn't that only leave the relay if the connections are good? as the Temp sensor saga continues I see that my current sensor has one yellow wire that seems to match the yellow wire labeled "temp to dash" by known Datsun 510 mechanic/ray so I assume labelling was already accurate. I ver
  6. Also: I just checked and the coolant temp sensor on the motor IS a one wire/ solid yellow which appears to be the one I used up to the body harness. The gauge I verified works and the wires are connected. So the only thing is maybe its really just not hot enough to register but everything is hooked up.
  7. icehouse: yea, he was cool until the deal was done. Then he had amnesia for even the most basic of questions but the forums seem like a better route for this stuff. I will go get a volt metter from the auto parts store and see what they are putting out. What voltage are they suppose to be at ? Also, what year motor is this and what cars come with my motor? He also said it has a JDM trans & posi rear end but not sure how to confirm. Banzai510 : I was going to try your method too and open up that silver relay and see if I can clean it up just in case thats all it is.
  8. ]2eDeYe: Ohhh helll yeaaa! (Steve Austin voice) Icehouse: ok that makes much more sense why I am not getting any temp reading. Is this S13 an Orielly's thing I can get on the spot and if so what motor do I look under? Also seems you know exactly what car I am working on which is a relief. I'm glad someone knows some history on it as I feel in the dark the way the deal went down. I know about the previous K swap and that it was removed for this Sr20de and supposedly wired by Ray Stonehock who claims I can wire straight to the yellow/white and make the stock temp work but guess not
  9. Yea, or it's really just that cold on the temp gauge from idling? However after 15 minutes I feel it still should have registered even slightly ? I ordered an aftermarket gauge to run side by side and say F the bs.... As for the last little annoyance of the headlight issue. I jiggled the silver relay and pressed the wires around and I did see the right side flicker once but didn;t see too much activity from that thing to know if it's a cause. The high Beam being stuck on is my main concern since that would have to mean either the HB switch is bad Or some type of odd ball alien wir
  10. I am not sure the sender name but the yellow wire that was labeled by Ray Stonehocker (who wired it before my ownership) has a yellow wire off the engine harness that is labelled "temp to dash" on it towards the lower passenger side of the engine bay. I grounded the interior yellow/white wire near the kick panel to verify the gauge actually worked and it did. Next to connected the yellow labeled temp wire to that same yellow/white wire and ran the car for about 5 mins. Because I didn't see the needle move at all (the garage area is unheated if that matters) and when I did not see the temp nee
  11. So i grounded the yellow/white wire (on the interior harness) and it pegged all the way hot...so I unhooked it and wired the yellow wire that was labeled "temp to dash" directly to the Yellow/White wire and started the motor. I let it run for about 5 minutes (it seemed) and the needle never moved. Since I was scared the motor was secretly over heating I backed off and turned it off. I re-tested the yellow/white to the chassis and sure enough it pegged all the way hot showing the factory gauge works. So now I am wondering if the car sitting there idling for about 5 minutes really
  12. 2edeye: I am more concerned with trying to get this temp gauge working because The Wallflowers once said; "You can drive it home...with one headlight" haha but I appreciate all the help and those that see this post.
  13. and the gas gauge seems to work its not on empty
  14. Datzenmike: The guage is unknown because I bought the car this way and the previous owner isn't the friendly helpful type. So I see a wire off the engine harness that I believe Ray Stonehawker wired with a yellow wire tagged as temp to cluster....and I located the pictured yellow/white wire off the interior body harness that I was told does the temp. So do I splice the body harness wire and ground it to see if it pegs out? or do I try to connect both yellow wires and just see... keep in mind this a SR20 swap so thats why I need to wire this stuff. Gas Gauge seems to work its not on empty like
  15. Hello, Trying to figure out how to get my stock temp gauge to work with a SR20DE swap. I pictured what I am looking at because I was told the body harness has a yellow/white wire to connect to make the temp gauge work. Pic(1) is the new wiring from the engine harness labeled for temp. pic (2) is the interior harness plugs next to the passenger kick panel that have a yellow/white wire which i was told is the temp wire. pic(3) is a mystery to me but looks modified in some way and is my second question. The driver side headlights dont work and the passenger seems to be
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