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Mr_Mudney

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  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Cars
    1979 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Tinkering

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  1. I’m taking your advice and bringing my stock alternator in to be repaired. You mentioned increasing the output?
  2. Thanks for the reply mike, the regulator for the alternator is located on the brushes of the alternator, can this be replaced easily or is it just better to take it and get a shop to take care of it?
  3. I have a 1979 Datsun 620 that I’ve recently got back on the road. During the rebuild process I’ve had it running in the driveway idling for a long time, and i have never had an issue with overheating. But now that I’ve taken it around town I’ve noticed the temp gauge will rise to just below the hot level, but as soon as I stop and get back to an idle it drops back to the halfway point. I’ve also noticed the fuel gauge will do the same. If I fill it up and get on the road it sits at the “full” level, but when I get on the road it will peg the gauge way past full, until I’m at an idle when it will drop down along with the temp. If the fuel is at a quarter tank, it’ll rise the gauge to the 3/4 mark and sit there stead until I reach idle again and then it will drop back down. My charge light has come on, does this sound like a bad regulator and the over voltage is giving the gauges a false reading?
  4. You never cease to amaze me datzenmike, it works. The fuse is new, but I’ll try cleaning up the connections. Thanks for all you do!
  5. Working on squashing the electrical bugs on my 79 620. I know the brake switch, hazard switch, and horn are all on the same circuit. None of them are working, but the fuse is not blown. While testing I see I am getting voltage to each switch but when any are activated the voltage drops to 0 on the entire circuit. Electrical is not my strong suit so any help with this would be very appreciated.
  6. Yes I understand the way it is supposed to work, I may be getting confused on which direction it is turning. For the choke flap to open the tang must be be pulled to the passenger side of the vehicle. If I set the tang in the j shaped part of the coil, as it is heated the coil will pull to the passenger side but it is not attached to the choke tang, only resting against it, so it will leave it behind. Is the linkage for the choke supposed to pull it open as the coil rotates? I have set the tang on the left side of the coil and it moved with it, but that didn’t seem correct because the bend in the coil shouldn’t be there for no reason.
  7. Yes, but if it’s sitting to the right (inside the elbow of the coil) what is pulling the choke open? The coil is simply resting on the choke lever holding it closed when it’s cold, but when it warms it would just leave the lever behind as it rotates. Am I supposed to bend the elbow of the coil around so it will trap the lever?
  8. I did a carb rebuild on my 79 620 and after diagnosing some choke issues I was having I found I didn’t orientate the bi-metal spring with the choke lever correctly. I had assumed that the elbow in the spring just sits against the lever but when it warms up it just pulls away from it not pulling it. so I set the lever for the choke In front of the spring and it works but I don’t thing that is correct because as I was reading people were saying that they physically attach somehow. If anyone’s got clarification that’d be helpful.
  9. Question about the routing of coolant through the intake manifold on my 1979 620 l20b. There’s the ports on either side of the intake to take water in from the head, but there’s another line that connects to the thermostat housing, and then wraps around the engine and connects to something over there. The auxiliary coolant line just confuses me, what’s it’s purpose?
  10. So I’m in the process of doing a emissions delete on my 620 (every bit of it was rusted and all the vacuum lines were shot). This is a 1979 Datsun 620. In the process of deciding what should stay and what should go I found there’s a switch mounted to the top of the EGR manifold with two electrical wires and a vac line coming in looping into itself and coming out it’s body. I had to do a lot of digging because I couldn’t find it listed in my manual or on here but I found a manual that had it. The vacuum line coming off the carburetor and feeding into the vacuum advance splits off into the VSV and goes somewhere from there. Can anyone explain the purpose of the piece to me and if I need to keep it attached. I just want to make sure it doesn’t interact with the distributer. Vac switching valve: https://imgur.com/gallery/vaxgxiN
  11. I opened it to check the condition of the diaphragm, I’ll take a look around for that small spring.... wish me luck XD And thanks for the feedback
  12. I’m in the process of rebuilding the carb on my 79 620. While taking apart the vacuum valve for the secondary two silver ball bearings fell out onto the garage floor..... I found one but lost the other, luckily the rebuild kit comes with replacements, but it does not show where they go in the exploded view and neither does the repair manual. Id appreciate some help in finding a home for these ball bearings, thanks!
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