Sh00bs

got away from the hitachi for a weber 32/36 and it's AWESOME. feels like a new engine tbh at the same time i deleted all the SMOG junk in my bay since it's a california truck (now in Maryland). I deleted the coolant line that went from the intake manifold in front of the engine, tapped into the thermostat housing and then down to the lower main coolant line into the block. however that cap popped over the weekend and pissed coolant everywhere, too much pressure from having fun with my new more performance carb lol can anyone recommend a better cap or what i should cap with ? oorrrr should i just put a line back in and route it into the lower main line on the left of the block ?

bump. about 300 miles since i cleaned it for a 3rd time and she's still good! waiting on getting the gears back for my '91 jimny (went taller gears for better hwy driving rpm's) and i'll be pulling all the smog stuff off. since im not making a post though about it, she'll probably crap out on me today on the way home from work lol the 32/36 came in. im gonna hold off til this carb gives me issue's again though before pulling it

the SMOG junk is just so much in the way it would make it even harder to pull the carb... yes i would like to remove the smog BS, i'll happily dig into it. gonna wait til i have the replacement carb though. Mike i've read a lot of your posts defending the stock carb, i do plan on keeping it and i'll be cleaning it as well, i just dont want to pull some of the smog stuff to get the carb off and then have to put it all back on. i now have a 19mm, carb cleaner, a 10mm and a flathead with me in case she breaks down haha i'm at about 4 mins to have the filter hat off w/all hoses, a/f screw out and solenoid out and cleaned with the carb cleaner. worst case i'll do it on the side of the road edit: any links for a quality clear filter ?

After looking at it again, I'm gonna order a carb, remove all the California smog junk (yeah yeah I know, well it looks way better and a LOT less crap in the way when working in the bay) and see what happens. I've gotta remove it anyway or work around it to get the carb off anyway. Why does California suck? Lol look at all this extra garbage crowding the bay Pulled the a/f screw and solinoid, blew them out again and bam she's good to go Any thoughts? Would spraying that passage way blow back the debris into the bowl and out of the jet? At least, temporarily freeing the jet

i completely understand that, however... after this has happened the first two times, i remove the a/f screw and the idle control solenoid, spray the passageways out with carb cleaner, and bam she runs fine again. i can let it sit for a day or more, start it up and the issue is still present. i appreciate the advice but i really dont believe that to be the issue

the way Mike is describing it sounds like i dont have to take the carb off ? is this true

just changed the filter when i was doing the timing chain 2 weeks ago im going to clean the carb regardless, hopefully it's not too much of a pain to get off i have jet cleaners, an ultra sonic machine and plenty of carb cleaner. about an hour and a half i'll be starting on it

the more im thinking about it, all this stuff is 40 years old. i really dont want to have to keep going back and fixing it as things break - which i understand you ahve to do from time to time with 40 year old things. could anyone give me a good reason to not swap to a 32/36 and remove all the cali SMOG stuff ? being a '78 the intake and exhaust should NOT be connected i believe i dont want to just do the age ole thing of "just tossing parts at it til it's fixed" but i mean shit, it was running GREAT on 3 cyl's until i started to diagnose my cyl 2 misfire, which turned into finding a damanged cam/rocker and putting a cam in it. running on all 4 now and a headache later im having carb problems - which i find weird being it was running so great on 3cyls. it sat for maybe 3 - 4weeks at most while i did the cam swap and had the front cover off to reset the timing chain in my head, less is more. less is simple. take the SMOG stuff all out (im in maryland, tagged historic we have no emissions testing or inspections) and put a 32/36 on her. gain a little performance but mostly make it easier to work on (Mike you mentioned in my last thread how much of a pain it is to get the stock carb off and you have to cut a 12mm wrench to do so) im looking at this guy https://www.californiadatsun.com/carburetor-parts/weber-32-36-dgev-electric-choke-carburetor-conversion.html unless someone can really give me a reason i shouldnt. i LOVE old stuff, but when they start nickling and diming you every 50 miles or less, i dont want to clear my carb jets just to have something else come up with this 40 year old carb... - whcih i get, it "shouldnt" lol but hey here we are right

I gotcha. I'll get her pulled tomorrow and see if I can't clean it all out

Before I do that, should I spray out the a/f and solinoid passageway first? ... for a third time lol since it worked the first 2 times

3rd time she's conked out on me... will barely idle and I can free rev it but under load it just bogs 78 620, L20B The past 2 times I was in my neighborhood and limped it home, this time I was a few streets down. Has a new fuel filter on it I fixed the first two times by removing the idle solinoid and a/f screw, then blowing them out with carb cleaner, both ways Runs fine for another 20-30 miles then the same thing happens.. Wtf How can I make this permanently fixed ?

I think we're all good boys! Took about 10 seconds for her to fire and I had to help idle... but since that cold start today its been great See here: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CPloLXcDTJX/?utm_medium=share_sheet Thank you all! What a great forum

So my a/f screw was clogged and the solinoid was hand tight She was 5.5 turns out Blew it out Runs. Timing was at 20° ish, set it back Played with a/f and idle screw - but my idle guy is all bent -___- sigh man this is one thing after another I slightly bent the bracket to counter the bent adjustable idle screw/diaphragm piece Pulling the throttle open and closed while adjusting the idle and playing with the bracket /screw must have flooded it lol she wouldn't fire back up Will go back it at it tomorrow, but we're real close

It's now stalling hot and cold I can keep it running by giving it gas but it's a delayed throttle response She wants to stall under load Won't run on her own at all So all that changed was I put maybe 1/2 mile driving on it in the community after it was idling for 3-4 mins without issue Starting to warm up and it started missing under load I limped it back Seems like it isn't getting fuel?