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Dubnut

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  • Location
    Spokane WA
  • Cars
    1972 PL620
  • Interests
    Fixing things that are broken.
    Books.
    Actual Quiet time

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  1. I had considered looking at the 4wd places, but figured I'd pay premium overkill.. I'll look into the trailer suppliers, thanks.
  2. Thanks Mike, I went looking through all the old posts and couldn't find anything. I appreciate the assist. Would cost a lot less than this and bags... https://www.fabquest.com/universal-pro-street-4-link-kit-271.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cGtSeiB0jMU3KuK17t8S9lWezHZUGgUI0-RB1qMiZNQMRffDI0mdIMaAt6TEALw_wcB
  3. Short of finding another axle housing, does anyone know where I can find new perches? Or will I wind up fabbing one? Thanks. Crawled under truck the other day to check U-bolts and found this on the right side. https://i.ibb.co/0sqSCng/shackle-rear-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/RvxwXpP/shackle-front-1.jpg
  4. Anyone have one laying around? Former owner changed over to an electric pump and I'd rather it be the stock Mechanical. I'd appreciate it
  5. Front end is on the ground, tail is just now apart - going through all the bushings there - will be done next weekend I hope.
  6. It Does have the M2 stamp - so I'll be looking for an L20B pipe then - thank you
  7. that right there is what I'm looking for.. that setup is what should be on this motor. so this motor prob came out of a 79-80 model... canna have? I wan...
  8. Its Vertical - there is a raised 18 cast into the Block on both sides and L18 is stamped into the side of the block right beside the dipstick, just underneath the cylinder head mating surface - It's just the hose that was attached and the way it was twisted, I had assumed they had replaced it some time ago with the wrong setup. It reaches the Intake just fine, but it seeps oil like a sieve. So I thought the 90 degree setup would work better, and not collect as much oil blow-by. But it IS a vertical hole, just underneath the intake/exhaust on drivers side right next to #3.
  9. Does anyone have one laying around? I opened my motor up earlier this year after acquiring this pickup and the prior owner had installed a piece of copper water pipe with an elbow on it. they attempted to JB Weld it into place.. That didn't hold and there is quite a bit of oil blow-by residue around the thing. It's a 1972 PL620 that has an L18 (thought it was a L16, but it's been replaced previously).. If anyone has the 90 degree elbow version of a Crankcase breather tube laying around I could use one. Thanks.
  10. So I was worried about lateral movement of the linkage when putting this thing together - i cut these with a heat knife until I got the right thickness to put one either side of the linkage before pressing in. I had this poly kit form a suspension off an older VW. These components were for another model and just sitting in my box o' goodies for years... Figured it couldn't hurt. You can see they barely fit in there - but I couldn't find wave washers the right I.D. for it.... There is no play - at all... Normally these have an o-ring in them to prevent oil seepage from the lube hole. Seeing as I no longer needed them I thought I'd try something... Yes, that is an old pressure ring from a 3/4" brake master cylinder... They fit beautifully inside the steel ring for the striking rod - however the rod itself did NOT want to go through the I.D.without serious stretching - Got them in and then the steel ring was too thick to press properly. I figured if I trimmed them to fit it would work way better than an o-ring, but these were in great shape so I erred on the side of caution and just used the standard o-ring. If anyone has problems with leakage at this spot and you have a set of older seals from a brake master cylinder and want to trim to size, it's an option. All back together and ready to go in... I pulled the clutch to inspect before I re-installed. Glad I did so because the rear main was not installed correctly by whoever was in there last.. Fixed that and re-installed everything. There is maybe one inch of side to side play at most in the stick now.. mostly from the linkage piece that the stick bolts into - that part is unobtanium new... Then I tore into this.... another story entirely - and yes, I pulled the bushings - there was unusual wear in two and three from the cam - the whole thing is in the cylinder head shop now getting hot tanked, tested, machined and inspected as I type. It was fun carrying it there on my back.. Alice pack frames are a good thing to have laying around. I did manage to find the missing lash cap as I said earlier, it was in the rear corner of the cylinder head buried in old oil buildup - that could have been really bad.
  11. So finally managed time to put the transmission back together. The shift pattern was so tight together I had to put the stick in it and make sure I hadn't messed anything up internally. Shifting the arm by hand it was too hard to tell if I was in between gears or not. It is much improved over what it was. There is still some wobble in the stick but that is from the other linkage arm that is discontinued. It's minimal, but it's there. It's in the truck and together - managed to replace the old nasty bullet connectors on the trans switches with one Deutsch connector while I was at it.. And just got the cylinder head off(I like to go through things). Not terrible in there and even managed to find the missing lash cap floating around in the valve train while I was at it. So that is on the bench and being inspected now. This may wind up having to be moved to Projects... I will post pics when I can
  12. So, thread re-jack: Got the machining done on the shift linkage, and all new parts from Japan have arrived. Slowly putting the machine back together. The oil impregnated brass bushings were off the shelf items, the Steel bushing had to be made. That was the old one The new one looks much better and I don't need the lube hole because of the new bushings. The Shift Linkage arm before any machining was done... After the machining the brass bushing is pressed in with an arbor, one on each side.. simple right? the brass bushings also needed 0.2mm honed from the I.D. in order to have the proper sliding fit I wanted for the steel shaft. Still do not have everything together - I got busy with the holidays - But I can say for sure that it will no longer have any play in the shifter after this goes in. The brand new Striking rod from japan will go a long way toward solving the problems as well.. The only thing I haven't found that I would like to would be two wave/spring washers proper size to go either end of the shift linkage to prevent or minimize walk.. but... I might come up with some before it gets pressed, who knows.
  13. Cragar Wheels... Their four lug wheels were four spokes. Their better know Five Spoke wheels were Five lug.... Never discovered if they made a six lug.... .02
  14. I just received the Gears purchased from Merlin in the mail today. The Bushings I ordered from McMaster-Carr arrived Tuesday. And got an email this morning that my parts shipped from Japan via FedEx last night. So.. It shouldn't take much longer before I can put the transmission back together. Thanks Merlin for finding those for me. Better than the ones that I'm replacing for sure. I'll keep you posted - But nice to see another source for info/parts...
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