KDW_80-720

I just got some Hastings rings ordered from my local Napa.

According to the ITM instructions you’re supposed to see both ends butted up. I sell hoses and adapters to my local Napa so they ordered me my .40 over piston rings from Hastings which look very OE

That’s makes sense. Yes, there is. They are clocked where they should be but the Wafer is still overlapped. When you spread apart a little it will stop the overlap but let it go, right back to where they were

I don’t think it should damage your AC system, but the hose might need replacement sooner rather than later. If you have a local hydraulic hose shop I would hit them up and see if they do AC hose.

So it goes wafer ring ring or ring wafer ring? The FSM doesn’t do the best job explaining it. I want to do this right, my machinist didn’t gap then for me

I edited that comment. I misspoke about the fittings, those will seal on the flare. But it looks like a hydraulic line so keep an eye on it

That hose looks totally different than an AC line. That looks like a hydraulic hose. I work at a hydraulic shop and bases upon those crimps on the Gates fittings, that is not an AC hose. I would keep an eye on that. The chemical resistance of the tube in that hose is not Freon rated.

How would i measure these if I were to try and find some after market good ones?

Yep. It’s all in range. It’s just that wafer oil ring thing is over lapping. They have like a red and green ends that are supposed to show colors when on the piston. They just overlap colors. I’ll grab a pic in a little bit

Yes. The oil rings wafer on the bottoms won’t butt up. They overlap every single time and it presses the other ring out so they won’t compress. I’ve read some other people who have the same problem and just say to scrap those rings because that’s super common with those rings.

So I got my engine back bored out +.040 and bought some ITM .040 oversize rings. The rings oil rings will not fit right they just keep popping out (the wafer)no matter how many times. Is there a different set of .040 over bore rings I can get that will actually work?

Thank you.

I just got block back from the machine shop and forgot to get the rings gapped. I can probably do it myself but I need to know what the ring gaps are supposed to be? so fresh and so clean

You might take it with you to a hydraulic/fitting shop local to you. I see you're in Renton, I know in Seattle there is Pacific Rubber, might now be the Alaska Rubber group. You might call and see if they do brake lines, or can recommend another hose shop that does up there,

I noticed this chip on the bearing housing of the L20 block. Is this a major concern?

There's a few places up in Vancouver. Hazel Dell Muffler, Punks Muffler, Get Bent Custom Exhaust is in Clackamas, er GBE Mandrel Bending now.

Can I use the rods from the Z22 with the L20B head or are they a little different?

So how much cylinder volume does the W58 peanut have?

Thank you. I’ll figure it out eventually.

I wound up actually finding a Z22 crank/block that I'll build the big bore with. I think the Wiseco K586M89AP pistons are my best shot with the closed chamber head. If my math is correct it should put about 9.7 compression. I'll keep the L20 and turbo it at a later date.

Okay. Thanks. Those numbers are for the 4cc dished?

Thank you! I can work with that. I'll try and track some down. Not sure where to start looking for them, but thank you.

Oh, I spoke to the dude over the phone and he sounded nice enough, but if he isn't great then disregard that.

Okay. My pistons were dished on stock with the closed chamber head. I mean the block has to be honed and bored a little, so if I went .5mm to like 85.5. So if we went a little over and then replaced with the flat tops, short of getting a new head, what would that put the ocompression at? I'm sure there's a calculator somewhere, but I'm not sure where to find one

There is a guy at Bills Datsun Shoppe in Clackamas. I'm not sure the cost, but the guy there was helpful when I asked him a few questions. Is it the L20B?