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Everything posted by jamesh

  1. an interesting update; I was having issues with brake lights. I was tracing the connections and trouble shooting that system, and may have jostled something just right. The tachometer has been resurrected.
  2. Used a 4x4 to shim the brake pedal to the floor (actuating the switch) so that I could walk to the rear of the vehicle and see what was going on...
  3. Ok, so I started the truck and turned on the four-way switch. I noticed that from the inside only one of the turn signal flashers was flicking on and off, so I straightened out the wheel and gave it a light tap and both turn signal flashers were blinking on and off. Shimmed the brake pedal and voila, the lights are back. what gives? Does the signal go to the steering column before going to the brake switch?
  4. Sorry, no brake lights! All other lights, turn signals, etc completely fine.
  5. Hi all, I’ve glanced around at various posts related to this but can’t seem to figure it out, it’s raining here today so I can’t do much at this moment, but plan to get to it afterward. the switch checks out OK. I just tested continuity with and without depressing the little button. i was getting bizarre voltage readings at the switch terminals, less than 12v but fluctuating quite a bit from 4-9v. i was curious as to how all of this is wired up. The white wire from the fusible link, tied to the pos terminal runs to the upper part of the fuse panel (inside, drivers side)and seems to power several things, one of which includes “stop lamps” - which has the yellow/red wire in that position. maybe I’m asking an electrical 101 question, but where does this yellow/red wire go from here? I think my manual shows it going straight to the brake switch. Could I run a new wire from fuse panel to brake switch? Anyone else run into something like this before? It seems like the problem is likely as this wire is on its way to the switch. Since the yellow/blue gets its voltage after the switch, I assume all downstream wiring is OK.
  6. jamesh

    Speedometer cable

    So turns out the tach wasn’t the last thing wrong with the truck. When I pulled the speedo cable out from the instrument cluster I noticed oil leaking around the area, I have actually noticed some oil in that area since I acquired the truck. Also some oil on top of the transfer case under the truck. Anyway I looked at this post Wondering if anyone has since tracked down a reliable source or part no. for a new cable, or for the seals individually. as always, any other advice would be appreciated. thanks james
  7. jamesh

    Speedo cable

    Time Left: 11 days and 4 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for speedometer cable with intact seals for 1985 Nissan 720 z24, manual transmission. i believe part no.b5050-t7200


  8. I see all of these going to the wire harness.
  9. This is (almost) the last thing not working on my truck at the moment. The 2.2k resistor checks out. Ive pulled the instrument cluster to examine. The yellow wire is getting voltage. But that must not be all it needs? any thoughts? after pulling the tach from the cluster, it appears to be in such excellent shape and I find it difficult to scrap such a fine piece of engineering and manufacturing.
  10. Better late than never. tested for vacuum leaks and everything was good. i installed redline part no. 99007.115 it is a throttle adapter kit. I want to do a write up on this, and how I installed it, but I cannot say enough positive things about it. This took my truck from being something incredibly difficult to drive, to having an accelerator pedal that feathers like a dream. No roller bearings needed, at least not yet. it was relatively easy to install, and it repositioned the throttle pull toward the driver side of the truck (factory has it pulling toward the passenger side). Only slight modification necessary. truck running pretty wel, none of the solenoid cut offs I bought seem to thread into my carburetor, the choke assembly is way to close, and the thread size for the primary choke is the same as the secondary, so maybe there is no part for this particular carburetor. Any leads on this would be helpful. still dieseling but suspecting that jets need to be adjusted slightly, possibly downsizing the idle stream, and even the main jet to make a more lean condition. will post on throttle adapter soon!
  11. I like the idea of putting bearings in, but I’d like to address the simplest things first, and fine tune from this point. For e.g. the throttle return spring has been rigged to the supplement hydraulic clutch booster line... the throttle cable bracket had never been lined up very well and so that hasn’t helped things either. This is another project. I made a new bracket but have since ordered an adapter through redline. As for the adapter plate: when I reinstalled, I cleaned up the questionable work. When I removed the carburetor, one of the studs hadn’t been seated into the intake manifold, it had been, amazingly, tapped into one of the frozen manifold studs. Anyway, I removed all of this and started over. When I reinstalled the intake manifold to adapter plate gasket, I put a thin coat of grease on the intake manifold side. (This was recommended by redline). How do you all check for leaks? Vacuum or otherwise.
  12. There aren’t many vacuum lines to be leaking, and I capped off anything that did have a line previously.
  13. Spray starter fluid around the carb w truck running and listen to engine?
  14. jamesh

    Fusible link

    As far as I could tell from my research, the wires were all tied together in the main harness and that was linked directly to the positive, so that’s what I did with the copper ring terminal.
  15. jamesh

    Fusible link

    Yes! It was just a bunch of random spliced copper wire before, now it is the fusible link.
  16. That is really helpful, thank you. It’s interesting because according to the literature I have referenced, Weber recommends increasing primary idle jet when the mixture has to be turned out >+2 turns, which is where I am at. all of my jets are as listed for the 32/36 dgav except the idle, and as of now the primary idle is undersized. Will report back on this once I play with it, idle cut off solenoid comes on Friday!
  17. jamesh

    Fusible link

    I tried to match the original wiring, and where that was not possible, I checked the gauge size of the load side and scaled the fusible link accordingly. I feel a lot better about this. https://ibb.co/tPjF75D https://ibb.co/5h1JrLJ Next is the tachometer. Only gauge that isn’t working. I’ve tested the resistor which comes out OK. That is as far as I’ve got. Do you have to remove the instrument panel to remove the tach? Ive noticed that the bulk of the problems with this seem to be a bad tach.
  18. jamesh

    Fusible link

    So I’ve been working on the 720, rebuilt the carburetor and removed most of the vacuum lines. Now I’m looking for this holy grail of a part http://datnissparts.com/x-fusible-link-assy-for-datsun-nissan-720-pickup-24022-10w00-can-replace-24022-06w11/ It is the “main” fusible link that pops on to the positive post and goes to the alternator, ignition switch etc. The existing wiring is pretty bootleg, and so I figured if anyone had a lead on a part like this, or a creative idea to make something work. Thanks
  19. Hi all. Everything made it back onto the truck with no extra pieces. I pulled almost all of the vacuum lines, as several were routed incorrectly anyway. I have 2 observations and would appreciate any insight and opinions. The truck fired up immediately and idled with hesitation for a moment before cutting out. I started to adjust mixture for lean-best, and, as was the case before, I had to back the screw out about 2 1/2 turns. It does seem to idle just fine, maybe at a slightly higher RPM than before. I almost have no adjustment on the idle speed screw, which is also a little bit different than previously. The other observation is that it diesels pretty badly when I cut off the engine. Typically it would do this maybe one in twenty times (one in five times on its worst days). I do have an idle cut off solenoid coming in the mail and was going to play with that, but I can’t help wonder if these two items are related. I also found an old post And this actually lists some specs for the 32/36, which are pretty close to what I have in there, but not exactly. Both of my idle jets are 50, and the specs listed above call for 55 on primary/50 secondary. How much difference would that make? Anyway thanks for any responses and thoughts.
  20. Was anyone able to use the above link for the google document images?
  21. The adapter plate looked OK, it was the manifold itself, where it looked like someone tried to cut off one of the studs and then retap it for a smaller bolt. Anyway, it just looks like a small hairline that doesn’t go the whole way through. Normally my automotive projects turn into more than I bargain for.
  22. OK, so I can't figure out to upload images without having al URL? Is this the only way or is there a drag/drop or upload from computer/phone function? I am trying to add a shareable link to a google drive folder - any help with adding photos inline, without a URL would be appreciated. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mb3xTVikHH_FMlW4EWqlQ6YT_HNUBvCV There is a stamp that says made in Italy on the body of the carburetor, where the choke body mounts to the lower portion. If you can view the other photos, I'd be interested to hear any other comments. One of the photos shows the fuel line routing, and exactly where the "T" is located. I do plan on re-doing the fuel lines when I reinstall the carburetor--still waiting for the rebuild kit. Another thing I noticed is on the rear, right bolt coming from the intake manifold. It looks like whoever did this work did a relatively subpar job of mounting the carburetor, I am going to look into this, and re-doing it, but any experience-based tips with respect to this would be helpful. There is also a picture of the vacuum line routing, and I am not entirely sure where the one line that mounts to the carburetor goes to-it looks like it heads toward the crankcase. So maybe a PCV? Anyway interested to hear what you all think, and hopefully you can view the files. If not let me know and I'll try something else.
  23. There is a small tag that is attached to one of the bolts. It has some numbers and says Made In Italy on it. Would there be a stamp on the carburetor itself?
  24. Thanks for the reply. What you are saying makes sense. I figure before I spend any more money, I will just see how it runs with a clean-up/rebuild. Its pouring down rain here, but I'll take a picture and post it tomorrow. In my memory, I think it is a "Y" and not a "T". But it is like you said, fuel pressure line up and into a "Y" - one arm to the carburetor and the other back down toward the tank. Would the restriction in the return line be something "in-line" with the return hose (hose clamped and noticeable?) or would it be part of the "Y"? One more thing that I wanted to mention and had forgot; when I was attempting to get the idle adjusted on this truck, I had to back out the screw significantly more than what the factory recommended. If I remember right, I got it to run smooth around 3+ turns out. I think I remember reading something about adjusting jet sizes if you have to mess with the idle adjust screw that much. As for the idle-cut, that was my first guess as far as where to get the power from. Thanks.
  25. One additional thing. Is there any info on the type of main and secondary jet sizes that should be used for this truck with this carburetor (or does anyone have a successful set up they are using?) For the factory, the book was telling me 94 on main and 170 on secondary. As it stands now, the weber has a 160 main and a 170 secondary.
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