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fivetenguy

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Everything posted by fivetenguy

  1. DF, I had to remove that pump because the holes for the fan did not line up. I ended up reinstalling the old pump. I don't remember if the old pump was a cast iron impeller or not, but the few times I drove it in the summer (90+) the temp gauge was solid at 1/4 way.
  2. After everything was buttoned up I started the car. Noticed that the charge light would not go away. I ran the car anyway until it came up to temp. The gauge didn't even get to a 1/4 of the way. I'll have to measure the water later to verify. Instead of troubleshooting and spending money on older technology, I upgraded to an IR alternator. Due the size difference, I had to drill new holes on the lower alternator bracket for better clearance. Wired it in, eliminated the voltage regulator and rewired in the choke relay since the voltage regulator does that on the old system. It puts out a little over 14VDC at idle (1000rpm). I did not try reving up the engine to make sure it didn't over charge. I also had to buy a new alt. belt. The one prior was a bit short (820 compared to an 840).
  3. Cleaned off the top of the block and installed the head. Torqued it down according to the head bolt type and adjusted the valves.
  4. Since I was doing the head, I went ahead and bought the water pump and thermostat. I bought the parts from rockauto. I purchased an AC Delco thermostat and in the box I got a Motorad. Never heard of them so when I looked them up, I seen mixed reviews. Since the thermostat that was in the car prior was a Nissan and I was too lazy to go and order a new one, I put it back in the head. Then after installing the water pump, I discovered that the stock fan will not bolt on since the hole spacing on the new pump is wider than the stock fan. Since I installed it I couldn't return it. As I'm writing this I wonder if the 510 or 620 fan would fit...oh well. The radiator had one of the bracket come loose. I figured I should just have the radiator place fix that since it wasn't a bad idea to have the radiator boiled and cleaned up.
  5. Got the head back from the machine shot. They said the valves had a 100% seal, so I don't think they did anything with the valves. They wanted me to get the steel valve seat but I refused. The brass ones look fine to me. When I got the head back I noticed that some of the chambers also had nicks. Wonder if it correlates with the nicks on the pistons. Since I didn't care too much, I didn't investigate. Other chambers looked ok.
  6. It's been a while since I've posted, but I've been working on the car here and there. The biggest issue I had since I've last posted was a leaking head gasket. It was leaking on the passanger side between cylinders 2 and 3. It had a small oil leak so I pulled the head out and sent it out to get resurfaced. You could see where the leak had started on the pic below. There's a small streak of oil on the side of the block. The intake ports looked real clean. No carbon seen. The top of the pistons were caked with some "oily" gunk. Not sure what was going on there. Some of the pistons had some scars on the top. Wondering if at one point something broke in the engine at one point. The cylinder walls felt pretty good. No grooves that I could feel. Over all the engine appeared to be in good condition.
  7. After I made a new trans crossmember, leveled the engine/trans and installed a new trans mount, the clearance issue minimized. I had to "massage the exhaust to clear the trans crossmember. It was no big deal since I was planning on redoing the exhaust using aluminized tubing.
  8. I went with the 280zx struts and brakes (advised by DF) using '80 Datsun 210 control arms, ball joints, T/C rods and 7/8" master from a 280z. I love the setup. Very firm pedal and massive stopping power. To get the ride height that I wanted, I went with T3 coilovers with 150lbs/in (a bit soft but oh well). Also using T3 camber plates to get a bit more camber. I turned the camber plates 120 degrees to get more caster. The car feels pretty stable.
  9. If you ever get the crossmembers for the B110 done, put me down for one :).
  10. Love the color on the wagon. No experience with the 69 dash, but I've done several 70's 510 windshields with the dash on without issues. Same goes for the 620's. Although, I agree with you two to do the dash before the windshield. By the way, what size and offset are those wheels? Do they clear the rear quarters? SSR's?
  11. Not sure if it was an automatic or not. When I got it, it had stock 4spd. I had to make a custom crossmember for the trans. I did massage the crossmember brackets to give the transmission a little more room for side to side movement. It's kind of hard to see on the pic below because I painted it black to protect the bare metal from rusting. I basically made a slit on each side and hammered it in. The transmission was not all the way up in the car when the picture was taken. I'm so hoping that this 5spd works well. I was so stoked when I found it in the wrecking yard a year ago.
  12. Also installed new firewall heater hose grommets and new upper radiator and heater hose.
  13. Been busy with other things and work so this project has been moving at a snail's pace. Bought a new steering wheel and hub. Also, fabbed up some brackets and installed the seats I had in my 510. Hopefully this week coming up I'll be able to start up and possibly drive the car.
  14. afracer, thanks for the info. I ordered one from Japan. I'll install next time I have to remove the transmission.
  15. For what ever reason the new clutch hydraulic hose is about an inch short. It's been a while since I bought it on RockAuto so I cannot return it. I had a braided line and the needed fitting so no big deal. A few months back I bought an Addco swaybar. I was surprised to find it for $30 brand new. Maybe it was because it was the last one? I measured it with the old one and it's only 2mm thicker so not much stiffness gained, I guess.
  16. I got to the release bearing carrier issue earlier this week. Removed the old release bearing and installed the washer, then the bearing. I put the flattest part of the washer on the base of the carrier. I took some measurements of the carrier for future reference. Here is the link where I found a lot of useful info: http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=51104&forum=1&post_id=365931#forumpost365931 I used a 1-1/16" socket to separate the bearing from the carrier. Note: this is the carrier from the 60A 5spd. Used a 36mm socket to press (lightly pounded in) the bearing onto the carrier. There was a little more than 1mm of space between the washer and bearing. After installing trans in, I got what appears good engagement. Instead of the 14mm it looks like it's down to 4mm of free play before contact. I am yet to try shifting with motor running. I'll try that in the coming weeks. Just an FYI pic of the total (rough) height of the carrier, bearing and washer.
  17. More boring crap... Fresh flywheel. I just love the way these clutches look when they're nice and clean. You like what I used to keep the flywheel from turning when I torqued it down? Hey, it worked :rofl:. Going to install a new clutch master and slave. The master gave up on me a while back. More boring crap to come...
  18. :w00t: OMG. Just plain awesome. Amazing the speed of progress.
  19. The engine bay and trans tunnel was a mess caused by what looked like a leaky oil pan so I had to remove the engine to replace the oil pan gasket. Before and after pics of the engine bay clean. Didn't get too serious about cleaning the car as I loose interest real quick when it comes to cleaning and detailing. Boring, I know, but pics non the less.
  20. While we wait for the retry of making the 5spd trans work I will just unload some of the pics I've taken while I cleaned up the car and just because this forum needs more pics. My pics may be boring shit, but it's better than no pics. One of the reasons I started the 5spd swap sooner than later was because the clutch was slipping on take off. Upon taking the clutch off I found out part of the reason. Looks like someone was trying to save themselves 50 bucks. The old clutch did not look too bad.
  21. Kelmo, Tom, great info from both of you. Thanks! I finally got the washer/spacer yesterday. Like I posted earlier, I got it from McMaster-Carr. Part number is 93475A370 (18-8 Stainless Steel Washer for M39 Screw Size, 40 mm ID, 72 mm OD, Packs of 1) and it costs $5.55 plus shipping ($6). I will take pics of the whole process to make it easier for the next guy. With my current setup: 60a 5spd, 12a engine and flywheel, 1980 210 clutch, sleeve and release bearing (I used the sleeve and bearing from the 210) and no engine plate. I get about 14mm of travel on the fork before the bearing touches the pressure plate.
  22. That's right. That's what I get from what I've read. I am using the bearing, sleeve and fork from the 60 trans. After reading on the 1200 website I learned that the flywheel on the 12a is "thinner" than the 14a/15a flywheels. Therefore you have to shim the release bearing about 5mm closer to the flywheel. I ended up ordering a stainless steel washer about 6mm thick and with a 40mm ID, which is the OD of the bearing sleeve. I'll take pics and post them if it works out.
  23. Hi guys. I need some help. I am putting a 60a 5spd trans into the coupe but I have what seems like a problem. The clutch fork/lever has about 14mm of travel before it touches the pressure plate. This isn't normal, right? Do I need to get a longer release bearing carrier or should I just shim the pivot point? I got the trans from a 1980 210 wagon with a 14a. I'm using the bearing carrier it came with. Using a new exedy clutch for an '80 210. Thanks in advance.
  24. X2. I enjoyed reading the article. Thanks for posting it.
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