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Posts posted by fivetenguy

  1. 2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

     The only problem with a replaced bulb is the light pattern. Increased light output means increased glare for oncoming drivers. The best answer for this is the projector style with the sharp cut off. Ordinary reflector lenses still have lots of scatter. LED bulbs do not have the fine single point source of the HID and the light can't be focused properly by the stock reflector lens so glare in intense with them. These might work better in a projector housing. The internet is FULL of cheap ass chinese LED replacement bulbs making ludicrous output claims. They remind me of just a few years ago when they were selling HID (like) halogen bulbs with the catchy BLUE coatings on them. They were shit. Worse than shit because the blue coating reduced the light output. Maybe LED lamps will get better but for now, reasonably good one are $300 and up a pair.   


    I wasn't thinking of gettig LEDs, but HIDs. Like you mentioned, you've got to fork over good money to get a good LED unit.


    Supposedly, these Hella lamps have the hockey stick cut off for the incoming traffic on the left side. Here's the description from the website:



    Hella 7" Round H4 Conversion Headlamps Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z S30 280ZX S130 Roadster 311 70476 99996-70476


    Made in Germany

    Includes 60W/55W H4 Hella bulbs

    These lamps are designed for cars that live in and/or travel in countries that drive on the right hand side of the road.

    They emit the “hockey stick” lighting pattern where there is a sharp cutoff on the left hand side that keeps the light from glaring into on coming tracffic

    Also, these lamps have just a slight curvature on the glass face- not totally flat, but not a noticeable outward bulge like the OE sealed beam types."


    So, my question to clarify things for me, will I be ok if I buy some HID bulbs? I won't have to upgrade to a relay system to avoid melting anything? At the same time I'll have better lighting for night driving?


    Or just run with what I've got and use the relay system? Information overload ?.


    17 hours ago, datsunfreak said:


    50 watts is the equivalent output, not the current draw. They usually draw a similar amperage to a 20-30 incandescent watt bulb. 

    Very good point DF!








  3. 16 hours ago, datsunfreak said:


    50 watts is the equivalent output, not the current draw. They usually draw a similar amperage to a 20-30 incandescent watt bulb. 

    Very good point DF!


    Thanks to all of you for your tips and sharing your knowledge.


    On 1/19/2019 at 12:18 PM, datzenmike said:

    Well you could switch to HID or LED as these draw close to stock original headlamps... but with WAY more light. Much more efficient


    16 hours ago, datsunfreak said:


    Yes sir. Even after running mine for 20 minutes the fuse and switch were stone cold, without added relays. Never seen that on a Datsun, even with stock bulbs. 


    More light and less current draw... It sounds like it's a no brainer to run with HID or LED instead of what the kit came with.

  4. 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    H4s... that's what I had originally. Thicker 12 gauge wires made them a little brighter. The wattage ratings can go double the stock lamps so go larger (smaller gauge)


    Will do!

  5. 7 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    The Datsun wires are only good for the original tungsten headlights, about 55 watts. Halogen will draw more power through them. HID and LED are more efficient, producing more light with less power drain and are close to the original or Halogen ratings of 55 or so watts. After market Hella or whatever will almost certainly be much higher. I think I had a set of 100 watt bulbs once. If you have upgraded your lamps you almost certainly need thicker wiring, and not just the power side the ground also. Current flow is the same anywhere in a circuit.


    On my 710 I ran all new 12 gauge wires to the lamps and to ground from two relays so if there was a failure I would still have half my lights. Each relay has a separate fusible link of 30 amps. Every connection soldered..... and then I got rid of them and switched to 4 Xenon HID lamps.  


    I figured since the new bulbs I have are 60/55W and stock being 55w,I could get away with plugging these bulbs in without issues.

  6. 49 minutes ago, Dguy210 said:

    I've had the fuse for the headlights get hot enough to cause damage to the fuse box in the past. I would STRONGLY suggest upgrading the harness with a couple of relays such that the only power running through the stock harness is the power to switch the relays. You can either buy a complete harness to do this (about $20 off Amazon) or you can just use a couple of standard automotive relays and a fuse straight to the battery.


    Very easy upgrade and will let you run higher wattage lights in the future. 


    I will do exactly this. I appreciate the tip. I remember seeing these harnesses with relays and plugs on Amazon about a year ago when I was considering using H4's.

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  7. 4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:


    You really want to check if the headlight switch gets hot, not so much the wiring at the lights. ?


    The silly way they designed these is all the juice for the headlights runs through the switch. The higher amperage draw the light is, the hotter the switch gets. 


    Thank you. Good looking out! I vaguely remember reading about the power going through the switch but I had totally forgotten about that detail. Last thing I want to do it ruin perfectly good components or worst, burning down the car.

  8. The lights came with 60/55w bulbs, stock units were 50/40w, according to the owner's manual. I can see if the connector and wires get hot and go from there. If it's getting too hot, then I can either upgrade the wiring or change to a fluorescent bulb.


  9. You're right, Mike. I don't want to spend much money nor get too complicated with modifications. With the new pump and bearings I should be ok as far as oil pressure and flow.


    I got the oil pump and some head lights that I was told was offered by Nissan Motor Sports for the 240z and Roadsters. I didn't want to spend too much on LED headlights so I thought these Hella H4's would be a good upgrade. They're supposed to be a straight swap. but we'll see.
















  10. I bought a new OEM pump for $60 on Ebay. I always crank the engine until I have some oil pressure as you've suggested ;). Hope there are not any other issues or surprises with this engine.


    Thank you guys for your comments and advice. I'll keep posting as it happens.


  11. 22 hours ago, datzenmike said:


    Top rod bearing journal should look like the bottom so get a strip of very fine sand paper an a boot lace and start spinning it to polish it up. Check all rods and mains and polish accordingly. The bearings are well worn but that's their job to wear out rather than the crank. New ones will be fine. The rest of the engine just obviously needs cleaning.


    The drip of coolant could only have got there from somewhere else. Like down the empty cylinder. Any chance this block sat outside an froze?


    If there is no lip that catches a fingernail on any of the cylinders you could hone and re-ring. I haven't read every post so I don't know your plans but I find this never lasts. If it's out consider re-boring and new over size pistons and rings so you have a new engine.


    I'll get emery cloth and clean the journals. The engine sat in the car since the early 2000's, I believe. Also, going to hone the cylinders. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to on this engine for a bore and larger pistons. I have too many projects and can't afford to spend too much on an engine like this one. I'm already at about 300 on seals, bearings, rings, gaskets and such. That doesn't including what I will pay for the motor itself and the machine shop work on the head.


    Would you guys buy a new oil pump or just run the original?

  12. So I started to take the engine apart and see what I'm dealing with internally. Unfortunately since the engine didn't get the oil changes it needed, I will rebuild it for peace of mind.  Made sure the head had the oval intake ports. Also, the mystery of the bent push rod was solved. Looks like a valve seat came loose. I'll have to take it in and get all the valve seat squared away with the machine shop. While the head is there, I'll have them clean and resurface the head and check valve leak by.






    You can see above on piston #4 where the it made contact with the intake valve.








    Cylinder #3. It could be moisture from the engine just sitting there but the head gasket could have been bad, too. Who knows and who cares.



  13. 1 hour ago, G8KeaPoR said:

    If anything I can just use the rotary engine sealant I have. It’s night heat and in my experience if properly cleaned before application never leak.  I have cases on that in stock for the occasional rebuild on my 3rd gen rx7 and if not permeates has always been solid


    You can still get the diff cover gasket from a Subaru R160. Same with the three other oil seals. For the Subaru LSD's I just get the correct gear oil from Subaru.

  14. Took a cap off a main and rod. What are your thoughts on these bearings? To me it looks like normal wear and tear. You guys think the bottom end is ok to run for a while longer? Currently my plan is to replace all seals, push rods, take the head in for a resurface and check the valves.














  15. Got the motor home and started taking it apart. Took the valve cover and oil pan off. The rockers are caked, the oil pan had quite a bit of sludge settled on the bottom, there was a bent push rod and some coolant dripping out of one of the bolts for the mains.









  16. My cousin got a '78 210GX parts car about a year ago. I helped him take out the engine and trans. It came with the 78hp A14 and the A63 dogleg trans. Being that it was the 78hp engine, I decided to "buy it" from him. I put buy it in parenthesis because I don't know how much these motors go for.




  17. I run them on two of my cars. They are awesome. Only that I run them with a 12.2" rotor and only 15" and larger aftermarket rims fit over my setup. The 15" JDM wheels with a two piece barrel fit do not fit. I would think that if you run a smaller (11" or less) or stock rotor, the 15" JDM wheels would fit.

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