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Posts posted by EDM620

  1. I hear you on that. I don't know the build you refer to and probably don't really need to know either, I won't be going to drive it or hopefully be on the road anywhere near it. Is it just a lack of skill, planning & execution, or intentional hack? Many people learn by doing & without someone knowlegable to guide them, well... I was lucky growing up that my neighbor was into cars as my dad wasn't and didn't have the skills either.



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  2. I'm just back from the Okanagan Valley, panic buying already underway and stores closing due to no inventory coming from Vancouver.


    Heard 3rd hand of bridge techs out searching for bridges that have totally washed away, potentially creating new problems downstream. Highway 1 (Trans-Canada), Hwy 5 (Coquihalla) and Hwy 7 are impassable. Hwy 3 ok but connects to Hwy 1 by Hope.


    Some footage forwarded to me:


    That RV Dealership is a big one, I drive past it often. Virually everything burnt to the ground, total loss. Not sure if in the attached video, but have seen a campground that disappeared with an RV that had been in it.

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  3. The recent storm hitting the Lower Mainland BC plus Washington State have resulted in complete total washouts of major highways plus rail lines in BC, effectively cutting Vancouver off from the rest of the country. The level of this impact will take weeks to even figure out.


    Just a couple of pics. Mike & others who live in BC can add for more detailed info.


    Hwy 1.JPG


    • Sad 1
  4. On 11/6/2021 at 12:22 PM, d.p said:

    wondering know if I should use a cork gasket, gasket maker or both?

    Use a gasket sealant but only against the block (always to the machined surface, then clean & dry against the pan. Make sure the pan is nice & flat then torque to spec.

  5. On 11/16/2021 at 8:52 AM, Lockleaf said:

    I with Duncan.  I read every post, I just don't always have something useful to add. 

    I enjoy the direction you're going with this build and always liked that body with the angled forward aggressive front end. I'm often looking from my phone as I'm on the highway daily, don't respond unless I'm on my computer.

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  6. 10 hours ago, datsunfreak said:


    I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋



    If you're talking about the truck, I would think as long as it's something with a full frame, the roof is a lot less "structural"? Or it is just introducing leaks you're worried about?

    Yea mostly concerned about keeping it watertight, the sunroof that was already in it amazingly was leak-free considering how rotten the gasket was. I expect I'll need to make some internal frame for the headliner to properly hang from, so adding some roof stiffening to the sheetmetal is in the plan. This outward retracting sunroof is a very big opening and has potential for doubling as a spoiler, stress loading the roof skin some.

    Part ID (factory/aftermarket/panoramic) - Sunroof Express

    It's like this, and fully open will extend beyond the roof. Water leaks wrecks shit so fast and was #1 reason for 620 floors to rot out, though that leaks comes from the cowl rotting out first.

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  7. I appreciate the creativity that can be found in true Rat Rods, but at times I find the workmanship in some builds to be truly sketchy and I've seen things that are unsafe, possibly illegal but certainly wouldn't pass inspection anywhere. I was taught long ago that there are 2 areas you NEVER weld on or modify - steering and brake components, but I've seen leaf springs welded to frames, brake flex lines that are rubbing on suspension components, & other shit that screams "Death soon to whoever rides in this".


    Not for this cranky old bastard!

  8. I'm suspect of the long term functioning of those doors and the Lambo door kits. GM was never able to build a T-Top that didn't end up leaking, and the retractable roof in the Blazer(?) XUV was a more recent example. Show car cool for sure. That said, I'll be guilty of an aftermarket retractable sunroof in my build (eventually, the hole already exists) which I intend to add in a bunch of reinforecements to keep it more rigid.


    I'm warning myself, hope I'll listen!

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  9. 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Is the plate at the firewall welded to the column?

    Hmmmmn, I hadn't thought about that. The plate is a 2 piece so I can tack it up, pull the assembly out & weld it up.

    Thanks for that heads up.

    2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Nice clean work.

    Thanks, while this won't be a show car by any stretch I do try to make things neat & tidy. Too bad my own body welding isn't up to my standards!

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  10. Radiator fan has been successfully converted to pusher and has very little run-out, so I'm calling that good. All mounted up now onto the rad.

    IMG_7924b.thumb.jpg.671876ba3531a8a081a0950ac853de2b.jpg IMG_8002.thumb.jpg.d0ed4ce4c9da40f112fb6e1f108f2ffe.jpg

    After lots of time spent doing CAD work, I have fabricated lower supports plus side and top shrouds and I'm liking how that has turned out. Everything has rubber isolation so there shouldn't be any noises from this.

    IMG_7983.thumb.jpg.11dc53202e3a99ee8ed80c1fc22095a7.jpg IMG_7998.thumb.jpg.6e41892d7e47880a5ca880f7d5c8fc60.jpg

    There is a fairly large space below the rad as the new rad is far more rectangular, so I have devised a means to fill in that which will double to direct airflow through the rad.



    I'm happy with how this is working out and can shift my focus onto other tasks.

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  11. Been busy working on the truck as free time permits, and seeing Noll's Z progess has prompted me some!

    After a few minor body contact spots resolved, the cab is on the final fit up and progress continues.


    The 720 steering column is fully installed and larger brake booster from the 720 is in, requiring mods to the standoff for clutch master clearance, plus some recontouring of the inner fender for clearance.

    IMG_7858.thumb.jpg.a198e365fa1b4ee49d33682125d0f6d1.jpg IMG_7859.thumb.jpg.8d45a3a5450a9f433924207e45d93e97.jpg IMG_7861.thumb.jpg.87da912938cfbf2b0db96e292f41451e.jpg IMG_7871.thumb.jpg.6c8ff314b8bca209397c9483b8913e75.jpg


    The rad is test fit for mounting brackets, and have definate need for a pusher fan. Will see if I can reverse mount the fan blades so the unit I have is efficient when I wire the fan reversed - fan blades are scooped to pull air.



    Next up is the hardlines for brakes n clutch.


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  12. Cab is installed for another test fit, identifying 4 points of minor contact that will be addressed shortly today - 2 on upper control arms & 2 on power steering box.


    Have sorted out the wiper motor fitment as the 720 mounted in the engine bay vs the 620 mounting behind the dash. New mount plate made and wiper arm modified. Why not just use the original motor? Well the 720 wiring harness & motor have different connection as the 720 featured intermittent wipe, not an option on the 620. I might was well have everything work!


    Next up is to fit the 720 steering column, noting the mounting plate is very different between the 2 generations, with the 720 mount having a bend and looking like it went through the firewall a bit lower than the 620 did. This is my opportunity to make the alignment and position fit relative to the dash, the seat, and most importantly me. Comfort for long haul cruising!

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  13. The main area of issue was the lip that is supposed to lay up against the area where the hinges are, the profile didn't match very well but was massaged to fit.


    I've been squeezing in what little time has been available and have got the cab pretty near ready to put onto the frame and begin sorting the cooling/electrical/steering bits. A quick look at the heater assemblies show some significant differences between the 620 & 720 units, suspect there's gonna be some bastardization involved as the plan is to use the 720 system (more CFM, future potential of AC, etc.) PLUS the 720 steering column doesn't look like it'll line up to the 620 mounts & firewall. My intent is to try to get things to look more factory than rat rod.


    Anyway, the cab rust patches are complete and cab is fully undercoated, and engine bay is primed. Hope to have the cab mounted up this weekend or by next if I have time.






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  14. On 8/26/2021 at 6:17 AM, datsunfreak said:

    Also, rumor has it that since this V10 was only used in heavy duty trucks that it has a different bellhousing bolt pattern, and is only meant to be used with the bigger diesel transmissions.

    I'm no Mopar guru, but as I understand the Viper V10 is an aluminum block whereas the truck V10 is a cast iron block. So different transmissions would be logical.

    I was going to attach a couple pics of another Viper V10 swap, but for some reason they won't upload.


  15. Picking away on the fit of the fenders, the leading end of my hand built rockers didn't quite fit the fenders properly so I now have to rectify this (on both sides) before I go further. Gimme a bigger hammer dammmit!


    I massaged the non-OEM right fender and it now otherwise fits pretty good, the left didn't need much since it had previously been part of a 620.


    The left side door release has been moved 2" rearward and should operate normally, as long as there are not issues with the window moving up/down.



    • Like 3
  16. On 8/19/2021 at 5:48 PM, datzenmike said:

    the Pony was a piece of shit

    Oh absolutely it was.


    On 8/19/2021 at 5:48 PM, datzenmike said:

    the BIC lighter of disposable cars

    LOL, like the first gen Honda Civics ever lasted more than 80,000km (50,000 miles). But reverse doughnuts were a blast!

  17. Work on the project has been continuing though at a reduced pace thanks to work being quite busy lately. Time or money - never the 2 in abundance together!


    My iPhone has decided lately that it won't send my photos to my email so no pics until I get that sorted out. I have been working on resolving the problem about my door releases being now too far forward thanks to the dash swap, and at the same time I'm working on the rusted-out door bottoms. I have worked on the fit & alignment of the replacement front fenders - both being aftermarket - and with the body lines now matching up I will have the ability to make sure the door body lines look proper.


    Have I mentioned that I hate doing bodywork?

    Still have a good number of small rust-throughs around the rad support/headlight bucket areas to deal with, primarily cosmetic and ultimately hidden so I won't be spending too much time on those. I really want to get the cab back onto the frame so I can start with the electrical and plumbing connections

    • Like 2
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