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Everything posted by Metzman510

  1. Yup that's a 2002 with a trunk spoiler. I am so enjoying this discussion!
  2. I want to get a rear spoiler for my 510. Would love the one that Daniel Wu has on Tanto (http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/06/daniel-wu-tanto-510/). Not into the flexible polyurethane stuff, prefer rigid plastic or fiberglass. Any guidance is appreciated, I understand opinions vary on rear spoilers, but I like the shorter less imposing style, not wings. Feel free to post pics for reference!
  3. Time Left: 4 days and 21 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am looking for a nice trunk mounted spoiler for my 510 sedan. Would love to see pictures of what you might have? Prefer a fiberglass or solid spoiler, not into the wings or the flexible polyurethane stuff. I will also start a thread asking about what guys have used as spoilers on 510's from other brands? I know this is super hard to describe, but the best spoiler reference I have fro what I am looking for is the one on Tanto, Daniel Wu's 510 (http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/06/daniel-wu-tanto-510/) Thanks for the help...Greg


    Escondido, California - US

  4. Cool, I found the horn mounts, but the horn I have isn't stock, so that looped me. Thanks for the help!
  5. Cool, thanks for the support guys!
  6. I have the factory underhood service light for my 69 510, anyone know where it mounts?
  7. Can someone post a picture of where the stock horn mounts in a 510 sedan? My 69 came to me with the horn in a box of spare parts, I found the horn wire, but can't figure out how it mounts or where? Also, does a 510 have one horn or 2? I think my 240Z had 2 horns?
  8. Great advice, Thanks! I did get the Hazards working over the weekend. I noticed that the dome light worked once the car was started, which let me know I had a dirty chassis ground (car running=vibrating=ground contact) so I went and cleaned the major grounds and voila! the Hazards work and the dome light works. Now I need to find the correct location for the horn to mount and the underhood service light...
  9. Tracing the wiring on a diagram for the Hazard flasher and switch and I found a device called a "T. S. P. L."? Anyone know what a TSPL is, or where to find it? It could stand for Turn Signal Parking Lamp? It appears to combine the turn signals left and right through a diode or relay? Not sure what it is? All help appreciated!
  10. Will do! I'll get back to you as soon as I have tried that.
  11. You guys are awesome! Started hunting around and found the headlight relay last night (Thanks for the location help Hainz and Mike). It had a broken wire, so a little work with a soldering iron and were all back in business, high and low beams work! Stoked. So the stalk switch pulled toward the steering wheel is high beam and pushed forward is low beams on my car, seems backward? Anyone know if that's the normal switch positioning functionality?
  12. My 1969 510 sedan has no high beams? The lights are there, the column switch, etc, is all there, and if I jump 12V to the lights they work. I need to know if the 69 cars use a headlight relay? If they do, any idea where I should look for it? I know the headlights are ground switching, and I'm heading towards removing the steering wheel to work on the horn as well, but thought I would gather as much info before I dive in as I can. Thanks, Greg
  13. On my 1969 510, the Hazard lights do not work. The turn signals work just fine, which is a separate flasher relay, and the running lights all work. I'm thinking it's either the flasher unit or the switch? The flasher unit is a lot easier to swap out, so I was going to try a NAPA Echlin ECH-MC23016 12V flasher as a replacement. Anyone use that flasher before with good results? Is it common for the Hazard switch to fail? Just curious as I have been slowly working through the electrical gremlins in the car and am curious to other's knowledge and experience. Thanks!
  14. Metzman510

    T3 Heat Shield

    I have one on my 510. I just installed it last month. I'm running an L18 with an unknown header, shorty Mikuni intake, and the Mikuni 40's. It took a lot of fitting to get the shield to bolt on my car, 2 hours worth. I like it though, it's doing the job and looks good. I looked at it as being the place to start instead of having to fab the whole thing from scratch, so even with the fitting time i'm about even on the money and faster on the time... My $0.02
  15. Do you have any SS front hose sets? My car (1969 510 2dr sedan) has the SS lines on the rear, need them for the front only. Best, Greg
  16. I purchased that Remflex gasket from that seller on ebay yesterday. Will let you know how it works. I'm a true blue believer in Yamabond-4 (Threebond 1184), do I use it around the intake ports?
  17. Pricey is okay if it's a one time and done affair...
  18. Forum friends, looking for the experienced answer or suggestion. I am removing the Mikuni short side draft intake manifold and exhaust header from my car so I can re-seal them and know that I don't have an issue there. Is there a particular type/brand of intake/exhaust manifold gasket I should use that has proven to seal better and last longer than a generic one? L16 4cyl running a ported SSS head, header, and a Mikuni side draft set-up on the short Mikuni intake manifold.
  19. Good to know. I will check the cam narrow diameter as suggested.
  20. No mark on the end opposite the cam gear. Can't see anything under the cam gear, cause it's in the engine and I don't want to pull the gear... Nice regrind job.
  21. I need help identifying the cam in my 510. The engine is an L16 with some significant work done to it. Here are the specs: .450” lift, 274 duration, IO-31 BTDC, IC-63 ATDC, EO-67 BTDC, EC-27 ATDC (222 duration, IO-5 BTDC, IC-36 ATDC, EO-30 BTDC, EC-1 ATDC, @ 0.050” lift) Valve lash is 0.008”, Exhaust 0.010” cold. Good to 7000 RPM. The specs are from the data sheet for the cam that came with the car. The spec sheet has no branding on it and is very generic. The cam itself is not a regrind, it is apparently a new casting/forging as there are no weld or lobe-side grinding marks on it. The only identifying information visible on the cam itself is the word "Japan" and the number "210" cast into it. Thanks for the help!
  22. Thanks for the information! Rat-a-tat-Dat, yes I have run the compression, all cylinders are within 10% and compression is a solid 150 psi per hole. Just to make sure all was well went under the valve cover yesterday and set the valve lash while eyeballing the internals trying to ID the cam. Everything looked great, cam just says "Japan" on it, and does not appear to be re-ground. I then used a feeler gauge to set the throttle screws to just touching, then added a 1/2 turn. I double checked the timing and it is set at 10 BTDC. I need to calculate where 32-34 BTDC is on the crank pulley so I can see where full advance runs out to (my timing light does not have an advance feature). datzenmike, All 3 timing advance mechanisms are are working smoothly, no waver or hop on the timing light when I check it at idle through 3,000 RPM. Rat-a-tat-Dat, thanks for the Weber tuning information, the process laid out is very useful and nice to reference. Having done the valve adjustment and reset the carbs I test drove the car and it was running superb! The car still idles at 1,100 RPM, maybe as low as 1,000 RPM? But man did it run nice, until after running through the gears hard it sucked something into a jet and started to spit and burp and fuss. I will be pulling the carbs tonight to do a complete cleaning and inspection. I suspect there is some sediment in the accelerator pump circuit on one or both carbs because this is not the first time it has been running great then taken a crap after a good couple pulls under load across the tachometer. Before you politely suggest it, yes the fuel filter on the car is brand new and yes the fuel is also brand new (super no less) and yes I cleaned the particle trap below the fuel pressure regulator. It's frustrating, but so much fun once you get it right.
  23. My 69 510 is running a stroked and bored L16 with a ported and polished SSS head, a mild street cam, and a set of side draft Mikuni 40's on a short Mikuni manifold. Displacement is now about 1800cc. The car has a header, and a nice exhaust with a bung for an O2 sensor. I have installed a "Dizzy-Matchbox" electronic ignition with the matching high energy coil, and the timing is set at 10 deg BTDC. I have been working through this car for the last month getting it back on the road, it had sat for almost a decade in a garage when a friend located it. Just before it was parked some less than wise person tried monkeying with the jetting to get the car running on E85 type fuel and that is where it stayed until I towed it home. Here are my cars cam specs: Cam (have specs, manufacturer unknown) similar to a SSS cam or a Comp Cams 280S-10, .450” lift, 274 duration, IO-31 BTDC, IC-63 ATDC, EO-67 BTDC, EC-27 ATDC (222 duration, IO-5 BTDC, IC-36 ATDC, EO-30 BTDC, EC-1 ATDC, @ 0.050” lift) Valve lash is 0.008”, Exhaust 0.010” cold. Good to 7000 RPM My "problem" is that I can't get the car to idle lower than 1,100 RPM. It's not that it doesn't idle, it idles fantastic, always returns to 1,100 RPM +100 RPM never lower. Today I went back through and made sure all of the mechanical adjustments for the carbs were sound. synced the carbs, ran the idle speed adjustment screws all the way off the throttle plates, then brought them back to just touching, then re-synced the carbs. I reset all of the idle mixture screws, made sure the linkage arms are the same length, made sure the throttle linkage is pulling the linkage arms against the throttle shaft arm holding it against the idle speed screws, etc etc. No luck, car still idles solidly at 1,100 rpm. My Innovate LM-2 digital wideband O2 exhaust reader says the car is running lean at idle. it registers a 15.7 to 16.0 instead of the desired 14.0 to 14.6. I'm beginning to think I might need to go up a pilot jet size (currently 62.5's and mixtures at 2.5 turns out) in order to get the idle richer and drop the idle speed. I sprayed the intake down with carb spray today and there is no obvious air leak. Questions: 1) Has anyone else out there in Ratsun land worked through a similar situation? Did you successfully resolve it and now have a car or truck that idles solidly in the 8-900 RPM range? 2) I have read on other Z-car oriented forums that the Mikuni PHH carbs should be jetted so that the pilot circuit (idle to low midrange) functions properly when the mixture screws are set at 1.5 turns out. It seems that the general opinion is that you jet for that screw setting, not use the screws to adjust the mixtures to work with what you have. I believe my pilot jets are on the small side, so am considering going up a size to correct the air fuel ratio and am curious if it will drop the idle some also? 3) I know some cams require a higher idle, but I would think that a mild street cam would idle down nicely? 4) The car doesn't ping or knock, so the timing set at 10 BTDC should be close to on the money, the vacuum advance and the mechanical advance are both fully functional. Anyone know what max advance should be so I can try setting the car's timing at higher RPM and letting the idle timing settle from there?
  24. Do you have the assembly PN? It's a start... I would assume that the 21 tooth in the s12 is from some unusual optional variant?
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