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NorCal720xx

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  • Location
    State of Jefferson
  • Cars
    1983 720 4X4
  • Interests
    Most things California has made illegal and none of the things that it makes legal

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  1. Got the ICM on the way. Thanks for the help; much appreciated! I'll post the results when I get it installed.
  2. $300 about the going rate with new? I may have a line on a used one off a parts rig.
  3. Continuity checks out ok. Checked both E and I just to make sure of my reading. Checked the white also just for kicks and it's good back to it's plug.
  4. Found white wire with separate plug like you said. Unplugged, but still no spark on exhaust coil. So I understand, with how it's wired now the intake plugs are firing off the signal coming from the Exhaust terminal on the ICM, correct?
  5. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=Ignition control module&referer=v2
  6. Also pulled the exhaust coil fuse and the engine stayed running...
  7. I just swapped the E and I wires on the terminal block. Like you said, it just moved the problem to the other coil. I kinda wondered if it would, but as a result, the tach started working. Is it reasonable to assume the ICM? Or since it's obvious that this rig has been messed with, is there anything on the ignition switch/fuse block side that could have this fouled up?
  8. I did reconnect the splices off the terminal block. Definitely suspect but no improvement. Shouldn't I be able to swap the E and I wires on the terminal block vs the module?
  9. "If you follow the Brown back it should go to the terminal block, the wire it connects (shown Blue) should go to the B (battery?) terminal below. On either side is E (exhaust) and I (intake). Both the E and I go to the negative terminals of the coils" Brown connects to a black/white then to the "B" terminal at dist. Both the "E" and "I" terminals connect to their corresponding negative terminals on the coils. Very minimal evidence that the intake terminals inside the dist. cap have been working. Replaced with new cap <1k ago. The exhaust terminals inside the cap appear to doing the work, as we know ... Just changed out both coils with new.
  10. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WrA3uEqHhemrKwJM7 Left to right is E B C I on the distributor. Sorting out what I have now
  11. When I said I have 12v at both terminals on both coils, that was key on not running. With engine running, the coil with no spark has 13.50v (alt output) The other coil (small red, small black wire) has 12.25V positive terminal, and 9.2v negative terminal.
  12. I believe this is the block you mentioned. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qGNHaBERRGk9X2EC7 I see where on the side going to the distributor the wires have been sliced poolry. (Blue, red and thin black with white stripe) I'll put butt connectors on them. This shows the wires to coils https://photos.app.goo.gl/5H2Z2PGd5oiMuPyD9
  13. Both coils have power at negative terminals. No spark coming from the coil with the heavier gauge wire. Replaced this coil with a new one. Same, 12v at neg terminal, no spark Other coil has same voltage and engine runs the same regardless of which position the coil wire is in the dist. Fuse still ok, engine dies if removed.
  14. 12.08V at the pos terminal on intake coil. Thin red wire going to neg terminal and black wire with small red dash going to pos terminal. Same voltage on exhaust coil. Brown wire going to pos terminal and white wire with blue stripe going to neg terminal. Exhaust coil wires are heavier, maybe 12 awg. 12.38 v at battery. Which coil would be the Intake coil? The one on this truck that has the lighter wires is closest to the grill (it was connected to the intake on the dist.). The coil with the heavy wires is closest to the fender (it was connected to the exhaust on the dist.). I switched the coil wires and it started and is warming up. I'll drive it and see if there is any changes.
  15. Thanks Mike. I disconnected first fuse while running and engine died. 10A fuse looks fine. All other fuses look good. I do have 12VDC at the + terminal on the exhaust coil.
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