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Chyvv

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About Chyvv

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Cars
    1975 Datsun 610 180B GL

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  1. Chyvv

    Nikki carburettors

    Took your advice, warmed up the engine and adjusted the valve lash, it ran rough for a minute or two but came good. The thermostat was jammed shut, which would have affected the water temperature switch and there was some excess fuel to burn off from turning the engine over to get to the positions I needed to in order to set the clearances, but in the end, it came good and ran smoothly. I've since replaced the thermostat too.
  2. Chyvv

    Nikki carburettors

    I currently have the standard Nikki 2-barrel thing on my 180B, I don’t care much for it, as rebuild kits are impossible to get and nobody seems to know anything about it. I’m trying to tune the car to a roadworthy spec right now, but can’t get the thing to run right. The timing is set correctly, the car has new points, plugs and leads, but the engine runs somewhat rough, it stumbled under throttle and stalled coming to a stop yesterday (it’s an auto, but I will be manual swapping it after it’s registered). I put new fuel in it (highest octane available) today but have been hesitant to drive it, as just sitting, if I apply throttle to hold a certain rpm, the engine will make a fair few quiet popping noises and run like crap. The primary nozzle appears not to spray consistently either. What can I adjust that might mitigate this at least for a short time? I feel like it will be more worth my while to change carburettors but I don’t know what the most plug-and-play answer is to that in terms of hooking up the linkages, manual choke, bolting on to the manifold, etc.
  3. Chyvv

    Fuel cap

    As I promised, back with more questions! my 610 was sold to me less a fuel cap because generally you can just buy them anywhere. Small problem: I’ve bought 4 fuel caps and not one of them fits. I’ve bought (all Tridon caps) 207, 217 (2 of those because they changed the design of them slightly) and a 206V. The latter 2 fit the actual filler neck but the tangs don’t sit properly in the slot. Is it common for people to fit filler necks from other cars? What filler necks would commonly be fitted in that case? I’m absolutely stumped on this one
  4. It was a free gearbox, mostly just looking to use it to get the car on the road and driveable. If I can find an FS5W71B and get away with swapping it (P-plate shit here in Aus), I will. From the looks, R31 5-speeds are an easy swap, my mate was running one in his 180B rally car with some kind of factory tailshaft until recently (upgraded to a Silvia 6-speed box with custom tailshaft) so if I can’t nab that off him, I’ll keep my eye out for those too. EDIT: just read those are an FS5W71C
  5. Most of the slop in this shifter is in the slot where pin 19 goes through, the inside of the part that wraps around the rod to twist it and move it back and forth is visibly curved from years of side-to-side motion. there’s also a lot of play in part 37, but mostly around parts 33. the upper linkage actually has surprisingly little play in it
  6. Hi all, long time listener, first time caller here. Might have a few posts over the next few weeks about my 1975 180B. First of all though, I've got a 4-speed pulled from a lower-trim, same-year AUDM 180B which will be going in once the car's registered and the shifter in it is unlike any I've seen online anywhere (yes, I've scoured these forums) and I have been completely unable to find parts for it. It appears to be missing some bushes (it is just generally worn, but it's clear some bits aren't there which should be). Image: https://imgur.com/gallery/ohTfkln Are there bushings available for these? I've started making some out of door trim bushes you can buy from Supercheap but they're not fantastic. Does anyone know anything about these shifters? Seems to be the story with this car that every last part is something obscure and information on it is unobtainable...
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