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About BananaXiphos

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  • Location
    San Jose, California
  • Cars
    1996 Mazda Miata, 1976 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Cars and Photography

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  1. This is points, I’ll have to check that too, thanks!
  2. I did timing and and valve lash a while ago but I’ll probably have to check those again. Thanks Mike
  3. Need some more help, this time with the carburetor, I’m noticing hesitation in the higher rpm’s when the throttle is fully pressed. There’s a slight “wall” in the pedal travel which is when the throttle valve begins to open up fully (or when the secondary valve opens up, I forgot) but I noticed on the highway today that going past that “wall” caused the truck to kinda hesitate and max out around 4k rpm, with rpm bouncing around a bit. Staying right below that “wall” allowed the engine to rev out higher and more smoothly. Sounds like I need to readjusted the carburetor but not sure where to sta
  4. Thanks, I'll check both of these. Also, how is the heat riser spring supposed to be set? I remember messing with it a bit when my exhaust manifold was off the car but forgot about it and put it back in without paying much attention to it
  5. Recently noticed a concerning noise coming from my engine bay. Whenever I let off the throttle while driving, either to shift or slowing down I’ll hear two or three taps or high pitched pops in the engine bay. It sounds like if you’re clapping but only hitting your fingers together and more metallic and light? Weird analogy but it’s the closest thing I can think of. When I let off the gas there’ll be about a second delay before I hear *TAP*.... *TAP.... *tap* with each tap being right after the other. There’s nothing loose in the engine bay possibly hitting against the firewall, choke opens up
  6. I wouldn’t know for sure but the previous owner did change a lot of things so that could be one of them. I’ll try this
  7. Filled my 620 up all the way full for the first time today, about 8 gallons of gas. Turned the truck on and watched the fuel gauge go up but stop at the halfway mark. I drive away, thinking maybe the second half takes longer to go up than the first half but check again later and see it's still just stuck at the halfway point between E and F. The gauge still goes down when fuel is low so it's definitely working but I don't know why it isn't registering a full tank. Any ideas? ALSO, the temp gauge doesn't work but I'm pretty sure it's because the wires were moved to the digital gauge that was in
  8. After extensive use of this forum and asking around Facebook groups, I was finally able to get my 1976 Datsun 620 Pickup SMOGGED and registered in California. HUGE thanks to everyone on this forum that answered my questions, especially DATZENMIKE, I wouldn’t have been able to bring this truck to life without you guys. This is my first real project car and I have learned so much in the two months I’ve spent working on it. For those of you that care, this is the whole process I went through of buying and getting the truck registered. My interest in cars and things that b
  9. I should be close to optimum tune then, thanks a lot
  10. I’ll try again at 700. Is it okay that the mixture screw does nothing to the idle when I keep turning it out? On my vacuum gauge it does lower vacuum so I left it where vacuum and idle was highest.
  11. I did a similar procedure but started with my engine at around 800 rpm then adjusted mixture screw for fastest idle, which it rose to a little over 1000. I then returned it back to 800 with the idle screw. At this point, the mixture screw now no longer affected idle if I turned it out but lowered rpm when I turned it in. Should I redo the procedure with a lower rpm like 700?
  12. Repaired the leaking carbon canister and tried starting the truck. It wasn’t holding idle so I played around with the idle and mixture screws. Idle screw is about a quarter turn IN (so it’s touching now, it wasn’t before) and the mixture is around 2.5 turns out from all the way in. Idles around 800-850 and seems pretty happy to me. I put a vacuum gauge on and it was reading 20 hg. I did try and see if screwing the mixture screw out more will raise/lower idle but all it did was lower vacuum to about 17-18, pretty sure more vacuum=better. So fixing the vacuum leaks fixed the high idle, does th
  13. Can't believe I missed this but the high idle was coming from vacuum leaks from the hose on the PCV valve and cracked nozzles on the charcoal canister. Replaced the PCV hose and now it idles a little under 1000. Idle screw is still all the way out, not touching the throttle plate thing at all, and and the mixture screw is out to where the engine idles at its highest. If I turn it about a full turn in it begins lowering idle/stumbling and if I turn it out it makes no changes to idle (I stopped turning it out any further because I was worried the screw would come out). I'll repair the canister
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