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iota

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Everything posted by iota

  1. Good news boys, we are back on the road after ~3 months of being out of commission. - Went back to the Datsun NOS mechanical fuel pump (replaced the diaphragms and cleaned check valves seemed to have fixed it, for now) - Got the Weber DGEV 32/36 installed "backward" by reversing the adapter plate and swapping the side that the fuel inlet was on - Got an accelerator cable from eBay from Thailand which was made for RHD trucks so it's plenty long - Found a Weber throttle plate (made for Mazda B2000) which fit the way I needed it to - Ben
  2. Yep it's good, I've used this same model pump with success (until it burns up from being mounted far away from the tank, so I'm moving to the rear)
  3. Yes, she wrote back with the helpful reply "you needed a manual choke" and nothing else. I said I needed a manual choke in my very first email but she had replied at that time that the Redline rep recommended the electric one. oh well - I kinda like the electric choke since this is my wife's truck anyway (not that she can't handle the choke but it's one less thing to have to worry about). And I thought I wouldn't like having it mounted backwards but man has it made working on the throttle setup easier (plus will make adjusting the screws easier). So it's all good, just gotta finish t
  4. I ended up keeping the (wrong?) carb they sent me and mounting it "backwards" so the throttle assembly is in the front, then picked up a "universal" accelerator cable kit that seems like it will work, just need to finish the install. I wanted to see it run with the new carburetor so I tried to start it and no fuel coming from the fuel pump - using the NOS OEM mechanical pump I got from a guy in Canada (which worked for a test drive before I started the conversion to Weber). Wouldn't even draw fuel out of a can sitting just below the pump. I tried replacing the rubber internals with
  5. Which Weber did you put on? They sent me 32/36 DGEV
  6. Actually I kinda doubt a 1-3/4" rise would do it - even with the current adaptor (which is about 3/4" tall or so), it isn't even close to fitting - i would need a couple more inches of height. It's gotta be the wrong carb, so I either need the "F" version which is reversed, or I need to make a new throttle linkage (which im going to try today)
  7. Thanks guys! I'll try to see if I can find something and I'm sure Monday I'll head from Pierce
  8. Yeah, I am using what Pierce Manafolds told me was the perfect fit per redline. it looks like I could probably do like some MGB guys do with a backwards DGEV and run the throttle cable between the carb and valve cover and have it come in at a 90° angle. But my throttle cable is way to short - I have the "bar" type linkage on my old carb. Guess I could source or make a longer cable with a bend or something
  9. This is the adapter that came with the kit (which pierce Manafolds said was correct and they said they verified it with redline)
  10. I tried turning it and that doesn't change the clearance but a few millimeters - I need a good inch to make it fit. I'm wondering if I need DFEV not DGEV carb, but I did see someone on Instagram once with the same DGEV carb so I dunno how they fit it - maybe pierce just sent me the incorrect manifold.
  11. Well, this hasn't gone as planned. When I have the carb sitting the proper direction to match up with the throttle linkage (linkage at the rear), the choke assembly hits the valve cover so it doesn't fit (not even close). If I turn it "backwards", it fits fine but there's no way to make the throttle work (short of fabricating a new one or something) since the throttle linkage is now on the backside of the carb and the cable is too short anyway. I emailed Pierce Manfolds for advice but open to suggestions from the ratsun pit crew! (not sure why my photos
  12. Got my "E662 kit" with Weber 32/36 DGEV today and started poking around at it. One thing I can't really figure out is how to get the throttle linkage hooked up - the kit didn't have any instructions for the throttle linkage, and just came with a "universal" linkage kit My old linkage is the "bar with a ball-in-socket" so I'm going to disassemble it and keep/adapt some of the old parts to make it work. if anyone has done this before and has any pics of the 32/36 on the j13 I'd love to see them!
  13. Just spoke to Pierce Manifolds and ordered the Weber carb kit they recommended - will post the details and pics when it arrives and hopefully is the right thing / works!
  14. Ok, finally got an original Kyosan-Denki mechanical fuel pump in it again (and put the electric pump in the emergency kit, just in case). Thanks to forum member who pointed me in the direction of someone in Canada selling a new old stock pump with the proper arm for the 520 J13! I took it for a test ride and it's running again but still having an issue with hesitation when shifting / trying to get going in a hurry from a stop. When I shift from 2 to 3 for example, I have to really stand on it and there's a second or two where it feels like we just aren't speeding up like we should.
  15. I had originally tried to use a mechanical pump - the original on the truck was destroyed due to sitting for a dozen years with bad gas in it - so I got one on ebay and combined the pieces with my original one. It worked fine for a while and then one day the arm broke off inside the crank case so I switched to electrical (after dropping the pan to get the arm out). Haven't found another mechanical one with the right size arm.
  16. Yeah it works fine now that I've replaced the fuel pump (for the 3rd time in 100 miles of driving ). The filter is right before the pump on a short bit of hose, i've considered getting it closer or moving it lower so there isn't a loop but I figure that shouldn't matter too terribly much. Sounds like moving the pump further back is the thing to do, I'll see if I can find some way to mount it around the top of the tank or similar
  17. Sounds good, I'll move the pump to the rear (where's a good spot?) any guides on how to adjust this carburetor? thanks guys
  18. Hey guys, back with an update and more troubles. We haven't driven the truck much at all this year with everything that has been going on. Plus, the few times we have tried to run it, it's been a major pain in the ass to get it to start. The issue we keep running in to is no fuel - the carb bowl will empty and won't refill. I noticed that the gas in the fuel filter/the entire inside of the fuel filter was yellowish (despite the gas being only a couple months old and treated with stabilizer or seafoam, and the tank being totally redone with POR fuel tank enamel in the spring). Carburetor inlet
  19. Anyone know the right size/thread pitch for a bolt to fill the hole that the pressure switch comes out of? After reading some reviews of the hydraulic pressure switches on Amazon and most of them say "worked great until it leaked and I lost the ability to brake while driving" I am thinking that just switching to mechanical is the way to go instead of messing with replacing the pressure switch. @wayno, what did you use for that bracket to hold the mechanical switch? I see the mechanical switch in stock in a lot of places but trying to figure out the bracket without too much fabricat
  20. Good idea, I might try that if the pressure switch proves to be too much of a pain to get working right
  21. Long time no updates. Truck hasn't been driven much recently but when we have driven it, it's run pretty well. We recently took out the metal dash cap (which was faded, rusted, and peeling really badly) and sanded it down to bare metal and repainted it with John Deere Blitz Black paint. Turned out really well, now i need to figure out how to get the lid of the ashtray off without destroying it so that I can paint it to match. Also took the Datsun to the cruise in at a nearby parking lot yesterday and it got more attention that most of the muscle cars, which was pretty f
  22. Nice do you happen to have a part # or a link to the proper rad cap for the 520 that can siphon back from the recovery tank?
  23. Nah I am still using the original cap on this rad which is just a one-way one - it will spit coolant out into the bottle, and then periodically I'll pour it back in the rad. I just wanted to be able to capture any excess that comes out so i could know for sure that any drips or drops on the garage floor (cardboard) came from the radiator itself, not just from hot boil off. Plus its better for the environment so that's good
  24. Yeah the tablets are GM part #12378255, adding them was part of the routine maintenance back in the day. Probably due to the "high quality" of the American made cooling systems 🤣 It's just a powder pressed into a tablet shape that you dump in and circulate through the system; I think it works by hardening once wet and exposed to air, so it doesn't need to be flushed. If I ever do pull the radiator or replace it I'll flush the entire system again just to be safe but I figure that it's fine for now. I would guess it will burn off or evaporate eventually, and I only put in half the re
  25. Passed inspection, so happy about that! Finally going to get my title, will only have taken 7 months 🤣 A couple days ago I decided to say "screw it" and I put in half a package (3 tablets, crushed up) of Bar's Leak radiator tablets, the kind that American cars come with from the factory. I then drove around for 30 minutes. When I got home, the rad was bone dry and the faint drops/smell of coolant I had expected were gone. No drops on the floor since. Problem solved (for now)
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