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About iota

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Cars
    1966 Datsun 520

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  1. Just spoke to Pierce Manifolds and ordered the Weber carb kit they recommended - will post the details and pics when it arrives and hopefully is the right thing / works!
  2. Ok, finally got an original Kyosan-Denki mechanical fuel pump in it again (and put the electric pump in the emergency kit, just in case). Thanks to forum member who pointed me in the direction of someone in Canada selling a new old stock pump with the proper arm for the 520 J13! I took it for a test ride and it's running again but still having an issue with hesitation when shifting / trying to get going in a hurry from a stop. When I shift from 2 to 3 for example, I have to really stand on it and there's a second or two where it feels like we just aren't speeding up like we should. I just took the carb off (an eBay J13 carburetor, if anyone has a line on a real Datsun carb let me know!), replaced the pretty worn out gasket and adjusted the float slightly to raise the level of the fuel in the bowl to be a little closer to the level indicator. Took it for a test drive and still having hesitation when shifting up. When I look in the carb barrel and move the throttle linkage, I get a squirt of fuel so the accelerator pump is working (I guess) but I am not sure what / how to adjust.
  3. I had originally tried to use a mechanical pump - the original on the truck was destroyed due to sitting for a dozen years with bad gas in it - so I got one on ebay and combined the pieces with my original one. It worked fine for a while and then one day the arm broke off inside the crank case so I switched to electrical (after dropping the pan to get the arm out). Haven't found another mechanical one with the right size arm.
  4. Yeah it works fine now that I've replaced the fuel pump (for the 3rd time in 100 miles of driving ). The filter is right before the pump on a short bit of hose, i've considered getting it closer or moving it lower so there isn't a loop but I figure that shouldn't matter too terribly much. Sounds like moving the pump further back is the thing to do, I'll see if I can find some way to mount it around the top of the tank or similar
  5. Sounds good, I'll move the pump to the rear (where's a good spot?) any guides on how to adjust this carburetor? thanks guys
  6. Hey guys, back with an update and more troubles. We haven't driven the truck much at all this year with everything that has been going on. Plus, the few times we have tried to run it, it's been a major pain in the ass to get it to start. The issue we keep running in to is no fuel - the carb bowl will empty and won't refill. I noticed that the gas in the fuel filter/the entire inside of the fuel filter was yellowish (despite the gas being only a couple months old and treated with stabilizer or seafoam, and the tank being totally redone with POR fuel tank enamel in the spring). Carburetor inlet screen was clean. I assumed that the gas still had some kind of rusty or gummy particles in it, perhaps from the original pickup tube (since the fuel filter I had added in the rear, before the hard line, looked the same, and the pickup tube had been rusty inside and I just left it when I recoated the tank interior). I drained all the gas, took the pickup tube out and made a new one out of stainless steel tubing, then got rid of the rear fuel filter and replaced the front fuel filter with a brand new one. Ran the electric fuel pump (Airtex E8016S from Amazon) with the outlet pointed into a jar to try to fill the line and it wouldn't prime it, so I hooked up a siphon and pulled the line, tried the fuel pump again with no luck, then replaced the fuel pump. New fuel pump worked, hooked to carb and runs fine. This is my 3rd electric fuel pump so far, and these fuel system issues are driving me insane. I have now coated the tank, replaced the fuel pickup tube, replaced the level sender, replaced all of the soft lines, removed the original fuel filter bowl, added Fram G12 filter, removed the mechanical fuel pump & added an electric one, and got a new carburetor. I am starting to wonder if my choice in electric fuel pump isn't a good one maybe, or my placement of the pump is too high? Does anyone have any suggestions for electric fuel pumps? Also, is there any good guide on how to adjust this carburetor - the service manual I have has info on a different style carb which doesn't match my replacement or original carb at all. I think it needs some kind of adjustment because when you try to pull out of a driveway or pull into traffic where you are really getting on it from a stop, the truck bogs down and you have to kinda stand on it and pray that it can stop choking and get going in a hurry. The fuel level in the bowl looks low to me? not sure how to adjust that honestly Thanks guys, hope everyone has been enjoying their Datsuns this year
  7. Anyone know the right size/thread pitch for a bolt to fill the hole that the pressure switch comes out of? After reading some reviews of the hydraulic pressure switches on Amazon and most of them say "worked great until it leaked and I lost the ability to brake while driving" I am thinking that just switching to mechanical is the way to go instead of messing with replacing the pressure switch. @wayno, what did you use for that bracket to hold the mechanical switch? I see the mechanical switch in stock in a lot of places but trying to figure out the bracket without too much fabricating
  8. Good idea, I might try that if the pressure switch proves to be too much of a pain to get working right
  9. Long time no updates. Truck hasn't been driven much recently but when we have driven it, it's run pretty well. We recently took out the metal dash cap (which was faded, rusted, and peeling really badly) and sanded it down to bare metal and repainted it with John Deere Blitz Black paint. Turned out really well, now i need to figure out how to get the lid of the ashtray off without destroying it so that I can paint it to match. Also took the Datsun to the cruise in at a nearby parking lot yesterday and it got more attention that most of the muscle cars, which was pretty funny. Always seemed to have a little group of people milling around and peeking inside at it, whereas the supercharged NSX next to it didn't get much attention at all. I noticed while following my wife home that the brake lights don't seem to come on under light braking, but I know they work if you really step on the pedal because I have tested them multiple times before inspection. I checked the wiring (unplugged from the hydraulic switch and shorted them, lights work fine). I'm not sure if the brake light switch is just worn out or if it's just an issue due to converting to front discs (so the pedal doesn't go as far before you're really stopping), but I ordered another hydraulic brake light switch from rockauto and will try that soon.
  10. Nice do you happen to have a part # or a link to the proper rad cap for the 520 that can siphon back from the recovery tank?
  11. Nah I am still using the original cap on this rad which is just a one-way one - it will spit coolant out into the bottle, and then periodically I'll pour it back in the rad. I just wanted to be able to capture any excess that comes out so i could know for sure that any drips or drops on the garage floor (cardboard) came from the radiator itself, not just from hot boil off. Plus its better for the environment so that's good
  12. Yeah the tablets are GM part #12378255, adding them was part of the routine maintenance back in the day. Probably due to the "high quality" of the American made cooling systems 🤣 It's just a powder pressed into a tablet shape that you dump in and circulate through the system; I think it works by hardening once wet and exposed to air, so it doesn't need to be flushed. If I ever do pull the radiator or replace it I'll flush the entire system again just to be safe but I figure that it's fine for now. I would guess it will burn off or evaporate eventually, and I only put in half the recommended amount so I'm not sweating it. No drips on the garage floor today still so I am pleased. I also added a Dorman 54002 coolant catch tank so I wouldn't end up with drops from the overflow tube going onto the ground. Looks kinda clunky in the engine bay because it's so big, clean, and white (everything else is dirty!) but it should work fine. thanks again to everyone here for the advice on getting this thing running. I think we will just enjoy it for the summer and then maybe once cruise-in season is over in the fall I'll replace the head gasket and give it a really good once over (still has visible, but not excessive, white in the exhaust and hesitation sometimes when really getting on the throttle)
  13. Passed inspection, so happy about that! Finally going to get my title, will only have taken 7 months 🤣 A couple days ago I decided to say "screw it" and I put in half a package (3 tablets, crushed up) of Bar's Leak radiator tablets, the kind that American cars come with from the factory. I then drove around for 30 minutes. When I got home, the rad was bone dry and the faint drops/smell of coolant I had expected were gone. No drops on the floor since. Problem solved (for now)
  14. Got the Datsun inspected yesterday, thanks to Charlie who suggested cleaning the frame rail off with wire brush, it took me quite a while to find the numbers and they did need to see them to issue the title. Radiator is still spitting a little bit from somewhere (not sure if its the core or the bottom tank weld). Old guy in the inspection line ahead of me with a '49 Chevy truck said that there's no good radiator shops in town anymore and that he has had good luck with radiator pellets (stop leak). Anyone try those? I just get a couple drips a day under the truck, haven't had to add any coolant at all so its an extremely slow drip. The engine still has hesitation when you really get on the throttle (pulling out of a parking lot), which I'm guessing is something with the carburetor but not sure what. I think I'll take the carb off and make a new gasket as the old one is probably junk. Otherwise she's running great and will be going to cruise in soon! can't wait!
  15. yeah from what I can see all of the other datsun ones except the Roadster seem to have the inlet/outlets on the wrong side, and the Roadsters seem to have a smaller/more narrow radiator. need to go measure. I've seen some people on here say that VW (possibly from rabbit?) work but I think that's just with engine swaps, need to do more research. open to any and all ideas since these things seem to be getting more and more scarce
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