Jump to content

iota

Members
  • Content Count

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

56 Good

About iota

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Cars
    1966 Datsun 520

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. yeah from what I can see all of the other datsun ones except the Roadster seem to have the inlet/outlets on the wrong side, and the Roadsters seem to have a smaller/more narrow radiator. need to go measure. I've seen some people on here say that VW (possibly from rabbit?) work but I think that's just with engine swaps, need to do more research. open to any and all ideas since these things seem to be getting more and more scarce
  2. Took my old radiator (the one that came on the truck, with a broken neck) to a radiator shop. They pressure tested and said it was no good, took it apart to see if there was anything worth saving and said the tanks & the core were all junk. They scrapped it (or I can pay to pick up the disassembled parts but I think I'll pass) The new radiator that I got from 420n620 is working well but has a slight leak in the core - the top side of the bottom tank has a little puddle and theres drip marks under the truck that aren't coming from one of the hoses. I just can't catch a break when it comes to these radiators 🤣 Has anyone had any luck adapting a new aluminum radiator to the 520? It looks like the 521 radiators you can get for about a hundred bucks on ebay have their hose connections in the wrong spots, not sure if there is another vehicle that has a similar radiator that would fit (possibly with a custom bracket)
  3. Got the odometer fixed - the middle of the 3 vertical gears had popped off the lower one and the "bracket" that holds the number wheels was bent. I shimmed it with a thin washer and it works again. When I get on the gas (like turning into traffic), the truck seems to stumble for a second or two before it really starts to rev up. Doesn't really feel like slipping clutch, guessing it's something with the carb. Not sure if I need to make a new carburetor gasket (didn't replace it when I replaced the carb, just left the old one on the intake manifold) or if I need to mess with the idle screw or what, its almost like it's not getting enough air (or gas?) for a moment and needs to take a breath before it can really go.
  4. before I break the damned thing, how do you get the dash cluster out? edit: nevermind, i see in pics in the classifieds that there are two metal clips on the back of the black plastic bezel
  5. Sweet, I just got it - I was able to use a pair of hemostats to pull the entire "barrel" with the pin and spring out, bend the spring longer, and put it back. She's honking again! Thanks everyone! (for future reference I actually removed the horn button's "trim piece" by putting a flat head in a little slot and prying it off, it didn't push or turn) now to figure out why the odometer got stuck at 67000.0
  6. Thanks guys that was a big help. I got the horn button taken apart and slid the turn signal switch down and tested it. Turns out that the turn signal switch "ring" has a little copper spring loaded "pin" that that touches the backside of the steering wheel and makes the electrical connection. That little "pin" is too worn down and doesn't make contact any more. I can't figure out how to get it out (to try to bend the spring back) without removing the wheel & switch unit but will keep messing with it
  7. Anyone know how the horn button comes apart on these? I keep trying to pop and pry it off but I don't want to break it. Our wheel is the very narrow 2 spindles with the round lowercase D logo in the middle. It appears to have a split ring around it but I'm not sure if that needs to be removed or what. trying to figure out why the button doesn't work (the wiring to the column does)
  8. Interesting thanks for the advice - I've had good luck with their "waterweld" product and was going to try that as it says it's OK for gas. I just need to seal the tiiiiiny gap around the hole I drilled in the replacement level sender that I put a brass fitting into as its seeping gas from that area when the tank is totally full (over-filled, really)
  9. Got the truck back on the road (again) today and it's running great. I used the POR-15 tank sealant kit on the inside which worked well, plus I repainted the tank. New fuel filter up front plus added one in the rear just after the fuel tank pickup tube just in case. Even my jerry rigged gas level sender is working (but I realize now I need to JB Weld around it because gas seeps out when the tank is totally full). Radiator is working great, no leaks, water gauge wiggles back and forth as the thermostat opens and closes as expected. I even drained and refilled the transmission and rear diff oils today. Only problem that cropped up when I was on a long test drive today: the odometer rolled over to 67000.0 and stopped turning - the six is stuck "up" a little bit as well. The speedometer works (but the needle oscillates quite a lot at speed). I'll need to figure that out. Does anyone know how the horn button comes apart - ours doesn't work, but if I ground the horn wire where it comes out just below the instrument cluster it honks, so our horn button must be shot.
  10. So the radiator I got from 420n620 is working great with no leaks and no, uh, "mods" like our old one had; after a 5mi test drive the water temp was hanging around the middle of the gauge (it seems to oscillate up and down as the thermostat opens and closes I assume, but no big deal) and no boiling over 👍🏻 But, as I turned onto our street, the truck came to a stop and I had to push it off the road - no fuel in the carb. This truck has had nothing but fuel problems since we got it - the fuel tank was originally a rusty, gell-'ed up mess, so I took it out and pressure washed and shook rocks inside of it and pressure washed again and again to get it clean. But now, ~80 miles and 5 months later, the fuel filter (a nice Fram G-12) was so full of gritty stuff that we ended up killing one electric fuel pump, and after replacing that it died on the side of the road with an empty carb. I cleaned the carb and the lines and it got fuel again, but it's clear that the tank was still an issue. 👎🏻 So, this weekend we replaced the fuel filter and flushed out all the lines out with fresh gas, and pulled the fuel tank out, cleaned it again, and then did the POR-15 fuel tank re-sealing kit. It looks great inside now - there really wasn't THAT much rust in it, but I'm guessing that little flakes must have just been continually breaking up and going up the pickup tube. Once it's all dried in a few days hopefully we will be back on the road. I've apparently got to take the truck to a place about 45min to be inspected by the state before they will issue me a title (and if I don't by December, they will revoke the plates and IDK what will happen to the title) since it's so old it's not in the national anti-theft database. Just gotta get it in good enough condition to do a 90 minute trip during a pandemic.....
  11. I got another radiator from the classifieds section thanks to 420n620, looks to be in better shape than mine (at least it's not cut up) so I'm going to try flushing the replacement out and swapping it, that should help a lot I would guess. Thanks guys
  12. Thanks guys - I just reached out to that seller to see about getting their radiator. I popped the cap off and the radiator (which was full last time I checked, and it hasn't been driven but a few miles since) needed about 1qt of distilled water to fill back up. Here's a picture of the neck. Guessing my problems start here but will tear into it sometime soon to get a better idea of whats up.
  13. Great info, thank you. The radiator cap is probably the issue. The "filler neck" where the cap goes has a notch cut out of it, about ~1" long and maybe 3/4" down. This keeps the cap from sealing tightly. Someone mentioned it was an old mechanics trick to prevent overheating but now I think that the radiator cap (which looks new in the last 20 years) just doesn't seal well, and is probably letting air in or otherwise not doing it's job right. I'll get a picture, not sure of exactly how to fix it. I had knocked the radiator cap off while working under the hood recently (since it doesn't "lock" very well with 1/3rd of the ring it snaps to missing, of course) so maybe when I put it back, it just didn't get tight enough. Hopefully it's nothing more than that but I'll investigate the other items you listed just in case
  14. Just an update on this, the oil pan project went off without too much drama. I got a replacement oil pan gasket from New Datsun Parts and my wife pulled the crossmember and the pan without issue. We pressure washed and used a wire wheel to get the crud off the outside of both, and then used self-etching primer and engine enamel paint on the outside of both. Cleaned up the inside of the oil pan (which was actually in great shape), retrieved the missing pump arm & spring, and were able to reinstall everything without too much trouble - I got new grade 8 bolts to replace the old crossmember bolts and so we could just hit the last one with a hammer to get it into place and it worked out fine. Oil change and a test drive later and everything is working great. The small block Chevy block-off plate from Amazon worked fine with the addition of a couple washers so it would fit tightly on the engine's studs. We are sticking with the electric pump for now (noisy but reliable) After a ~5 mile test drive, I noticed the hood was warm and there was a lot of coolant spray on the steering box and driver's fender well from the radiator overflow tube, so now I need to figure out why it's getting hot... It's a never ending project!
  15. The truck has been parked for the last 2 weeks since the fuel pump actuator arm broke off, just as a precaution. Today I pulled the oil pan bolts so I can get the arm back and figured I'd clean and inspect what I can while the pan is off. Obviously the pan won't come out due to the tie rod and/or the crossmember under the engine. What's the preferred method for getting the pan off with the least drama - pull the engine mount nuts, or remove the crossmember, or remove the tie rod, or is there a trick? I haven't attempted anything yet (was hoping it would squeeze out but there's no way), figured I'd check with the experts here before starting on the job tomorrow
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.