Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 OK

About nicklp

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Carmichael, CA
  • Cars
    PLG-222, ALFAs
  • Interests
    the truck, cars, books

Recent Profile Visitors

286 profile views
  1. Congratulations on getting it running; Hell Yes!! And a picture of the backwards assed shift pattern:
  2. I think you had it right in the first place, at least that's the way I just set mine up (not running or even installed on truck yet). I held it like the first picture you posted (same as the line diagram view), and used the 35mm measurement just as the tab rests on the ball, not compressing it, and with no gasket in place. I didn't mess with the max open measurement, so if anybody thinks that's essential, I hope they post up soon. I hate to post when I don't feel like I have definitive info or experience, but it looks like you are going through the same process as I did, searching the web
  3. Wow dude, look in the mirror. I'm out
  4. Mattndew, you could have made that point in response to the post I was trying to clarify after it seemed to be being misinterpreted. I agree with that post, and I agree with your point that the cat is most likely out of the bag. Not into the conspiracy theory stuff though. Is our own president's shit handling of this situation a conspiracy as well?
  5. They are working on it. He's making the point that if we contain it well enough, they can make a vaccine for one strain. The longer it's out there, the more people get infected, the more chance that it will mutate enough that we'll have to have multiple vaccinations for different strains.
  6. This is what we need more of! Tolerance of others, understanding of others opinions, polite thoughtful discourse and equality for all..... I think you missed:
  7. Do you have an industrial area near you? I had brake hoses made in West Sacramento, CA at a hydraulic supply house called Hoses and Fittings, etc.'s Parker Store now owned by Motion and Flow Control Products (MFCP). A mouthful of a name, but the point is they can duplicate what you walk in with, change the length if you want, and make them in braided stainless if you desire. I don't know where you live, but google might turn up a similar business near you.
  8. Thank You So Much!! That's just the kind of info I hoped for. Great starting point
  9. Could it have just been crappy brake fluid coming out of the wheel cylinder? Are you feeling lucky? Whether oil would be leaking out depends on the level of oil in the rear end and the condition of both of those seals. It could have been melted wheel bearing grease getting past the outer seal (leaving you with a dry bearing), gear oil getting past both seals (which would be a problem in the future because it would wash the heavy wheel bearing grease out of the tapered roller axle bearing), or maybe brake fluid that was so dirty it looked like oil. It could have been years worth of minor leakag
  10. Hello Gentlemen, I am rebuilding a used DGV to put on the otherwise stock A15 that is going into my 1960 PLG-222 truck. My experience is all with mechanical fuel injection and EFI, very little with carbs, never dealt with a DGV....Some of what came out of the dgv seems odd. Here is what I have now: idle jets P=55, S=50; Emulsion Tubes P=F-50, S=F-6; Air corrector jets P=160, S=165; Main jets P=130, S=135. Anyone out there running a DGV on their A15? Can you share the jetting you are using? Thank You
  11. Take another look at those parts book pages I posted. There are two seals (referred to as an "oil seal" (the inner one), and "grease seal" (the outer one)). Between them is the axle bearing, which is packed with wheel bearing grease. The inner "oil seal" keeps the diff. lube oil from washing out the wheel bearing grease from the tapered roller axle bearing. Those jeep videos I mentioned above show a set up like that.
  12. Just found out that old Willys jeeps have rear axle set ups that look similar to ours on the outer ends. On YouTube a guy named Carl Walk has a quick video called "how to remove a hub and drum assembly." And a guy named metalshaper has "Willys Jeep hub removal...." He also shows (multiple videos) his reassembly process including replacing outer bearings, which look like a pretty similar set up. They, of course, cheat and do it with intact studs.
  13. The old guys who taught me when I was starting out as a mechanic ( before I became an old guy) said you clean a tapered shaft assembly and put it together dry. Another thing I've learned over the years is that if you talk to enough gurus you will generally find some who directly contradict each other, so just my opinion.
  14. That crossbar comes off, so it's the same kind you've seen. The shock of the impact gun or hitting the crossbar with a hammer is part of what helps it work. You can also tighten it really tight and then smack it end on with a sledge hammer (as if you were trying to drive the threaded part into the axle). I know it sounds like voodoo, but the vibration/shock created when you do that actually disrupts the way the tapered shaft and the tapered hole in the hub are stuck together.
  15. RustyDawg, can you get a hold of this kind of puller to use with the L-bolts? This is the kind that took my rear drums right off (with intact studs...). Big congratulations on the progress. I concur with no grease in there. You had stuff that leaked past the axle seal maybe?? None of the printed stuff I have shows a torque value for the big nut. I think I just tightened until it felt right and put in the cotter pin.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.