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About menac1ty

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    Nissan Patrol 1989

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  1. The valves by the intake manifold (that's the carb side) are intake valves and the ones to the opposite side (exhaust manifold) are the exhaust valves. The spec is 0.012" that's right. Have someone start the engine and take note of which way it rotates, then spin it that way with your wrench. You could use another pulley if you can't reach the crank pulley but I wouldn't recommend it much, I was used the alternator pulley to do this job. Alternatively you can jack up on of the rear tires, put it in 5th gear and spin that tire by hand, would be a lot easier if someone would spin that for you while you adjust the valves tho. The way to see if piston #1 is at TDC: Remove the distributor cap and spin the engine until the rotor is just about pointing at #1 spark wire, then look at the markings at the passenger side crank pulley, there are some numbers there and a mark on the crank pulley itself, it goes 20 10 and 0. Spin the engine until that mark is at 0. You're now at TDC. Another way is that both exhaust and intake valves are closed for #1 at TDC. First go for a drive (at least 15 mins) to really warm things up, including the oil cause if you warm it up at idle then the only thing at adequate temp is the coolant temp. Then shut the engine off, remove everything in the way, loosen the valve cover fasteners a bit and then start the engine again let it run for like a minute or two. Shut it off again and remove the valve cover completely. Do the adjustment and double check to see if you've done it right and tightened the locking nuts enough. Then put the valve cover back on and use two fasteners to just secure it into place, DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM. It will prevent engine vibrations from throwing the cover off and the oil pressure at idle is so low the it won't leak from the sides and make a mess. Start the engine and let it run for a minute then take the cover off and recheck the clearance. After you're done, replace the cover gasket and install it regularly this time. This is an extra step I always do to make sure it didn't cool off much during adjustment to throw off my clearance and also to double check. And remember: ALWAYS set the lash on the loose side and not on the tight side, but no so loose that a bigger feeler blade could slip through easily.
  2. That's the thing, the tune up spec on that sticker said 3 degrees, just like the original 8 plug and that's why I was confused. 8 degrees seems adequate. I'd say 10 degrees total to compensate for altitude would be good. I always set my idle at 750-800 and when I unplug the vacuum hose the manually block it with my finger to prevent vacuum leak, the engine's behavior doesn't change so I'd say there's no vacuum advance at that RPM. By the way, I've been a long time lurker and used many advises given here especially by you on other topics around here, but when I posted this topic I didn't actually expect you to answer so quickly so thank you for all your inputs 🙂
  3. Okay here goes I'm in Iran, Tehran with 4500ft elevation. My truck is actually a Nissan Patrol but for some reason they put Z24 on them and they're all 4plugs. It was strange to me too about that vacuum advance. I literally just unplugged the hose and it passed but that's not really important. What I'm concerned with is the amount of advance that I need. I'm looking for a good balance between power and fuel consumption. I have a stock Hitachi carb but fully rebuilt and ready to go (except the accelerator pump doesn't work for some reason, despite replacing it with what came in the rebuild kit) engine is in perfect condition and really the only thing I'm not sure of is the mechanical advance.
  4. I've read somewhere that the 8plug ignition effectively advances the ignition too. Also read that spec is 3 degrees btdc with vacuum plug off at idle. Now, 2 things: My truck uses 4plug head, almost all z24's where I live do. So I assume more advance is required. I live in a 4000ft (1300meters) elevation which I've also read need higher advance. I used to run it at 10-13 degrees btdc in here and it wouldn't ping, power was good but it failed emissions. The local 'expert' unplugged the vacuum advance hose and it passed emissions. flawlessly and I was sure the carb was adjusted. So I assume it's a bit too much of advance. I'm running it at 5 degrees now and the power is not bad but I feel like it could be better and I'm due for emission inspections. Advice?
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