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bxadook

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About bxadook

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  • Location
    Tucson
  • Cars
    2015 VW Sportwagen 1.8 TSI, 1978 Datsun 620 L20b 4-speed manual.

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  1. So guys, I am basically done with the D21 4wd 2 piston caliper disc brake upgrade for the front. Pics will come later. It took me about a month and a half. Was anticipating driving the truck to get an alignment and had issues. I attempted to drive the truck out of the garage. It starts, but I have to give the truck gas to start it consistently. Had the same problem two months ago, but once everything was warmed up the truck would start no problem. Once started I have to give it gas to keep the truck running. It also sounds like it is running rough while I am giving it gas, and while putting it in gear. It feels like I have to give it a lot more gas to get the truck to move as well. I was worried it was my new hub bearings, but the wheels still spin freely. Needless to say, I got the truck 10 yards out of the garage and got freaked out. I suspect I have a vacuum leak or a fuel issue related to the work I did, as well as letting the truck sit for a little while and letting everything dry up. 😞 Please gods help me! Ben
  2. So I am in the process of upgrading the front suspension and I received two balljoints from Rockauto, the MOOG 9045 balljoints. They are both different. One clearly isn't made for this truck and has made me skeptical that the other will fit. The one that I thought would fit sits in the lower control arm like so. I haven't torqued it down fully but really not liking how this is sitting in the control arm. Is this a normal gap? The above diagram seems to indicate that is gap is normal but would like an opinion on this. Edited post for photos. If that didn't work: https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMz5ZRba11CQS3C9eTN4mNmuE9BlJKZqqF2OJSF https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMJMcbx1Q3aQsVz1LF7MMxGABudUl4yxCXZtsPO Ben
  3. How long were your studs and what size did you change them to? ben
  4. Hey everyone, So I replaced my valve cover gasket and that has appeared to fix the leak. Today, I learned that a garage opened up in my apartment complex which has suddenly opened a big juicy can of worms for me. In the next month I want to replace the brakes and do a suspension overhaul. The overall goal is to make the truck safer and to prepare it for an eventual motor swap. My L20b is still running strong. Planning on doing the D21 disc brake conversion, and converting the rear brakes to disc later as well. Front suspension parts list: Front upper and lower bushings Strut bushings Sway bar bushings Ball joints Struts Sway bar link Tie rods Brake conversion parts list: D21 2wd truck hubs and dust shields D21 or pathfinder 4x4 calipers with mounting brackets D21 rotors Bell-tech D21 drop spindles Are there any issues with this list or glaring things that I am missing? Any recommendations? I am not planning on doing anything big, like a coilover suspension or Willwood brakes just yet because there is a high likelihood I will break or fuck up something as I am learning. My apologies if it seems as if I do not know what I am doing, because it is true. Any advice would be helpful. Ben
  5. So I found a leak in the valve cover, where mike was expecting it and I have a valve cover gasket that is arriving today. Will see if this is the solitary leak! Is there anything I should check in the engine head when I pull the valve cover off? Ben
  6. Interesting. I saw the Troy Ermish starters when googling everything and it was pretty enticing. The price tag was steep! It's pretty tough to justify really nice stuff right now given this is my first car that will need maintenance and its highly likely that I will mess something up. I bought an AC Delco reman and so far 5/5 starts, including multiple cold starts in 30 degree weather. Thanks for everyone's help! Next projects in no particular order are chasing down the oil leak, floor pan replacement, full suspension rebuild and D21 disc brake conversion in the front and rear. On a tough ICU and inpatient month so time is limited. Ben
  7. Confirmed starter works on testing. Likely the solenoid. I’m not going to lie, already ordered my replacement starter. gonna keep the old one and if the replacement breaks I’ll replace the solenoid and use this one.
  8. Okay so the starter is pulled. Oil around the mating points. ' There is a lot of carbon build up. I noticed that there is a lot of carbon build up and oil around the contact surface with the bell housing/case. I am not convinced that there is a leak from the rear main seal from what I am seeing, as the oil could have come from the leak I haven't looked for yet and it might be contributing to my starting issues. Fresh oil in the case with lots of carbon build up. Will be taking the starter to Autozone to have it tested and cleaned. Ben
  9. Duly noted. I am still going to replace the starter because he was having the same issues but with less frequency than me even with his synthetic. If the starter is still giving issues after replacement will likely change to Rotella. Ben
  10. any of the L series motor starters are cross compatible with the L20b? I have discovered that my starter issues are likely worse than the previous owner's because of the change in oil from synthetic to the thicker Delo 400, which is why it only bothered him on cold mornings. Ben
  11. Confirmed 12.2V using starter case as ground. Been googling how how to determine if it’s the solenoid vs starter and I’m thinking I’ll just go ahead and replace both to not delay anything. I’ve searched the ratsun forums and you guys recommend original starters as replacement but my end goal here is a motor swap when my L20b dies(which may be never) 🤠. So so any particular brands you recommend? I know I’m going for the gear reduction starter. Can’t wait to open up the original starter and learn about/potentially fix it! Ben
  12. My light problems are all fixed with the OEM light assembly! What I thought was one problem turned out to be four. What a start to this journey 🙂 Here’s my tests: 1st test: Ground lead was battery. I attached the yellow/black wire to a male connector to confirm that I was actually getting a connection with my test circuit and ran the same test. Turned the ignition switch to start and got 0.3V. 2nd test: I switched the ground to the transmission bell housing and kept the male connector, turned ignition and got 12.4V. Assuming there isn’t a voltage drop between battery and starter solenoid, the issue is the starter or starter solenoid? My battery isn't grounded? Will look into this in a few hours. I only had time to diagnose my starter issue. Ben
  13. Thank you G Force! My starting woes continued despite the earlier cleaning. So tonight I tested the starter solenoid(Yellow-Black) wire, and I found the voltage to be 0.3V no matter what I did. I confirmed that my multimeter was working by testing on the battery and it came out to 12.4V. For some reason I do not trust this value of 0.3V. Is this enough to get the starter solenoid to even engage the starter? Based off what datzen said, he had 7V going to the starter solenoid wire and he was having starter issues. If it isn't, the truck shouldn't have been starting at all. My black lead was attached to the negative terminal(ground) on the battery, and red lead was attached to the yellow-black starter solenoid wire which was disconnected per datzen's instructions. I will try again tomorrow to get better readings, maybe with leaving the solenoid wire attached to the starter. Ben
  14. Update on taillight issue: So I took apart the turn signal switch and cleaned out all the corrosion on the switch contact points, checked all the wires and soldering points and there were no issues there. Unfortunately I did not take pictures of the corroded portion: Here is my switch: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KH2yaEirnpLV2ysi9 Undid the two screws on the left side of the switch to get the contact points and the bronze pieces that make contact with the springs. Put dielectric grease on them as well. After this, the turn signal still would not work. I ended up replacing a bulb, and VOILA it worked. The system was working well. The turn signals worked well after that but my brake light was still not working. Here is the wiring set-up made by PO: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KH2yaEirnpLV2ysi9 I maneuvered the wires around in attempt to get the brake light on the right to work and ended up blowing a fuse. After this, both brake lights stopped working. I ended up replacing two fuses, a 10A and a 15A in the top and bottom right respectively. I expected this to fix the brake light problems but it did not. I wracked my brain around why it would not work for a week. Eventually I checked the connections at the brake light switch to find one of the connections completely broken. I must have broken it somehow, because the brake light worked before. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nSE2Wqd3h4GvGRf69 I replaced the wire and the brake light works! The right brake light does not work still as messing with the wiring caused me to blow through two fuses. I have ordered a replacement OEM 4-pin tail light from a Pull-a-part in Oregon because the color coordination did not match and I do not trust my ability to rewire the light in accordance to the wiring diagram that I posted earlier. Hopefully this replacement taillight fixes everything. In summary: 1. Cleaned turn signal switch. 2. Replaced right front turn signal bulb. 3. Replaced wire to brake light switch 4. Reordered a 4-pin taillight to replace PO's questionable wiring. Ben
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