Jump to content

TheMrFlippers

New Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About TheMrFlippers

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arizona
  • Cars
    1983 720 4x4

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Welp. new problem every day at the moment. Yesterday I went to fire it and pull it into the shop (been storing it at the shop for the last couple months.) Pumped the gas once to set the choke, went to crank it, it spun over twice then acted like it seized, and moved the entire truck side to side. Tried cranking again, and it did the same thing. Went back into the shop, came back out and tried again and it fired perfectly. This morning, after she sat in the shop all night, I pumped the gas once to set the choke, and it did the exact same thing. I took a video of the strange misfire going on as well. This week I'm going to put a timing light on it, and do a valve adjustment, to see if that helps.
  2. Update, adjusted the high idle cam, adjusted the choke. Truck runs quite a bit better, still idles a little over 1k, if I try to drop it down to 750 it doesn't run very well. Black smoke is gone, and truck goes over 65 without an issue now. Other issue with the random bucking when I come back on the gas is still there. Not all the time, however when driving down the freeway today I noticed random hesitation when applying the gas. If I applied it slowly you could feel the truck back off for a slight second, and then come back to normal. If I mashed the pedal, it would sometimes be completely fine, others it would buck and then go. I am also still dealing with that very strange random misfire. It is prevalent at low rpms (in my case slightly over 1k.) It is noticeable from the exhaust, you can hear it every time it happens, can also see the engine shake, and can certainly feel it in the cabin. However, it isn't an all the time issue. On the trip back today it would do it at random and not consistent with coming off the gas, or long periods of idling.
  3. Little update, put a 30 day temp on it and drove it down the freeway. Truck could barely make it to 65mph, and according to my co-worker following behind me it stunk and was emitting quite a bit of black smoke. At 65mph in 5th gear I could floor it, and you could hear a difference noise wise, but it would not accelerate any further. Temp got to right below midpoint, everything else went fine. Got off the freeway and the RPM's were still over 1500. Another oddity, if I let off the gas for a second to hit the brakes, and went to hit the gas again it would jump pretty well. I will check everything that's been suggested and let you know. I appreciate the help.
  4. Carb was rebuilt due to the accelerator pump spraying fuel, gummed up from never being off the vehicle and sitting most of the time, and it also had an issue on cold starts where it would start puffing black smoke and loping like it had a high lift cam. Carb rebuild has solved that issue, now I just need to get this very high cold start rpm figured out, and then figure out the high idle. It's a 1 owner truck, with 123,000 miles, father bought it brand new off the California Coast in 1983. I drove it all through high school and into college, but it hasn't seen daily driving for close to 11 years and has sat for 95 percent of that time period.
  5. As far as adjusting the choke heater, do I want to do it with the engine hot, and just move it till it starts moving the plate then lock it down?
  6. The choke is open all the way once it warms up. Everything I've looked through points to the high idle cam, however I am not 100 percent sure on how to adjust it. Due to it not idling down properly, the lowest I can get it to is 1400 rpm, I was thinking that the two might be related.
  7. I have my memory wire hooked to the constant power from the green plug to the clock. With the factory radio wiring from what I found there is no constant power.
  8. Sorry for delayed response, the main issue is the differences in the wiring. The SMP would fit perfectly except it's only a 1 wire, the one posted for the D22 would not, as the wires are all individual and not pinned in a plug.
  9. Factory Hitachi, was just gone through and rebuilt. Truck fires instantly, and runs fantastic however at Cold Start it instantly jumps to over 3k RPM, after I tap the gas I can get it down to around 2k. From there it takes quite awhile (more than a couple minutes) to drop, and at the lowest point I can get the idle screw to, it still won’t idle under 14-1500 rpm. Found a couple minor vacuum leaks around the vapor canister, but those shouldn’t affect the idle much if at all.
  10. That’s a bummer, but I suppose if I had to get a 1 wire then I’d just wire it to the light. Finding one in good condition is near impossible.
  11. Quick question, the driver side switch has 3 wires going to it. Mine disintegrated yesterday, and all replacements (including oem) only show 1 wire connections. I’m assuming one of the three wires goes to the lamp timer, which I’d like to keep. Can these be spliced together and hooked to the 1 wire switch, since I’m assuming they just ground the connection?
  12. Problem solved, definitely a face palm moment. Went through the system again, tested voltage, tested key on power, tested the ignition switch during warm and cold cranking. Tested voltage in hot and cold conditions at the coils and ignition module. Found no issues, only that it wasn’t starting. Followed the wires on the bottom of the distributor up to the junction box next to the vapor canister on the driver fender well. It has 3 studs and 3 nuts holding the connections in place, found the third nut (one closest to the firewall to be loose and for some strange reason missing the washer. Repaired connection with a new washer and tightened down. Ran truck for an extended period of time, no issues whatsoever. Now to swap back all the old ignition pieces, new module is causing the misfire (only happened once replaced) and the old coils are obviously good. Now on to the next steps in getting her DD worthy.
  13. Carb was just completely gone through and rebuilt, by about the only decent shop I personally know of in AZ. However I will definitely check the choke plate as well, once I get it to actually warm up. She may run for 3 minutes max before shutting off. This ignition module has 4 terminals, wires from top to bottom are (Blue, Black w/ Yellow Stripe, Orange, and Red.) The truck sat for quite some time (father bought it brand new in 83 off the California coast.) Occasionally I would head over and run it for 30 minutes to an hour just drive it and keep it going. The entire issue started when the accelerator pump started spraying fuel, the carb was also in need of a rebuild as it had never been off the truck and it sat consistently (only 125,000 miles.) Put the carb back on and then the random no starts/shut offs started. Only reason I swapped coils was due to ease of access with parts (shop’s dime, easily returnable) and crossing things off the list. Coils are Delco’s, probably not as good as OEM, but certainly better then Standard which are the only other options.
  14. I will test that while I’m at the shop tomorrow. It has new coils as of today (keeping all original parts.) Another symptom, there is a definite misfire, thought it doesn’t cause any shaking. You can hear it from the exhaust, and see a slight shudder from the engine. RPM’s are staying high for quite a bit longer then normal as well, took quite awhile on this last start for me to get it to drop below 2k.
  15. Truck recently has a no spark issue, oddly enough it happened after the carb was rebuilt and replaced. Have replaced the ICM, and the Ignition Relay, as well as the Rotor. Truck will sometimes start cold, sometimes not. Will shutoff once it gets warm, and not restart. When it refuses to start, there is no spark at either coil (tested with a coil tester.) I appreciate any help.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.