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About TheMrFlippers

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    1983 720 4x4

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  1. Fixed most of the problems, somehow the timing was WAY off. Maxed the distributor out and it's still about 5-7 degrees advanced, going to have to pull the oil pump out and set it. It also has a bad dead spot right off idle that needs to be addressed, if I drop a gear and try to stab the throttle it will quite literally fall on its face if I don't let off. If I ease into the throttle she runs fine, little rich.
  2. I'll have to pick up a set of these in the coming months, do you plan on continuing to make them for sometime?
  3. So, back to this. Truck has been sitting under a canopy out back of the shop since my last post. Been a busy few months. I haven't touched really anything, but I have fired the truck up every couple of weeks and driven it around the parking lot. It still has that odd misfire you can hear in the video, you also cannot rev it from idle, whether cold or warm as it will literally fall on its face, you'll have to let off the gas to make sure it doesn't die. It also has the same issue when it comes to restarting. If I accidentally pump the gas after shutting it off, it will crank over once or twice, and then literally move the entire truck side to side, kind of like it's locking up. If i wait 5-10 minutes I can then restart it fine. 90 percent of these problems happened after the Carb rebuild (the random misfire, the off idle stumble, the restarting issue), before the Carb rebuild I could let it warm up, drive it for awhile, and have a truck that runs 85-90 percent decently. It feels like the accelerator pump isn't squirting when you hit the gas at idle, as it quite literally goes from idle to nothing, back to idle. I have to move the truck out of the shop and back to the house over the weekend, so at the minimum I need to try and figure out why I cannot rev it, and hope that it relates to other issues. I will be double checking the timing as well just to make sure, but I can be fairly certain that most, if not every issue, is carb related.
  4. Welp. new problem every day at the moment. Yesterday I went to fire it and pull it into the shop (been storing it at the shop for the last couple months.) Pumped the gas once to set the choke, went to crank it, it spun over twice then acted like it seized, and moved the entire truck side to side. Tried cranking again, and it did the same thing. Went back into the shop, came back out and tried again and it fired perfectly. This morning, after she sat in the shop all night, I pumped the gas once to set the choke, and it did the exact same thing. I took a video of the strange misfire going on as well. This week I'm going to put a timing light on it, and do a valve adjustment, to see if that helps.
  5. Update, adjusted the high idle cam, adjusted the choke. Truck runs quite a bit better, still idles a little over 1k, if I try to drop it down to 750 it doesn't run very well. Black smoke is gone, and truck goes over 65 without an issue now. Other issue with the random bucking when I come back on the gas is still there. Not all the time, however when driving down the freeway today I noticed random hesitation when applying the gas. If I applied it slowly you could feel the truck back off for a slight second, and then come back to normal. If I mashed the pedal, it would sometimes be completely fine, others it would buck and then go. I am also still dealing with that very strange random misfire. It is prevalent at low rpms (in my case slightly over 1k.) It is noticeable from the exhaust, you can hear it every time it happens, can also see the engine shake, and can certainly feel it in the cabin. However, it isn't an all the time issue. On the trip back today it would do it at random and not consistent with coming off the gas, or long periods of idling.
  6. Little update, put a 30 day temp on it and drove it down the freeway. Truck could barely make it to 65mph, and according to my co-worker following behind me it stunk and was emitting quite a bit of black smoke. At 65mph in 5th gear I could floor it, and you could hear a difference noise wise, but it would not accelerate any further. Temp got to right below midpoint, everything else went fine. Got off the freeway and the RPM's were still over 1500. Another oddity, if I let off the gas for a second to hit the brakes, and went to hit the gas again it would jump pretty well. I will check everything that's been suggested and let you know. I appreciate the help.
  7. Carb was rebuilt due to the accelerator pump spraying fuel, gummed up from never being off the vehicle and sitting most of the time, and it also had an issue on cold starts where it would start puffing black smoke and loping like it had a high lift cam. Carb rebuild has solved that issue, now I just need to get this very high cold start rpm figured out, and then figure out the high idle. It's a 1 owner truck, with 123,000 miles, father bought it brand new off the California Coast in 1983. I drove it all through high school and into college, but it hasn't seen daily driving for close to 11 years and has sat for 95 percent of that time period.
  8. As far as adjusting the choke heater, do I want to do it with the engine hot, and just move it till it starts moving the plate then lock it down?
  9. The choke is open all the way once it warms up. Everything I've looked through points to the high idle cam, however I am not 100 percent sure on how to adjust it. Due to it not idling down properly, the lowest I can get it to is 1400 rpm, I was thinking that the two might be related.
  10. I have my memory wire hooked to the constant power from the green plug to the clock. With the factory radio wiring from what I found there is no constant power.
  11. Sorry for delayed response, the main issue is the differences in the wiring. The SMP would fit perfectly except it's only a 1 wire, the one posted for the D22 would not, as the wires are all individual and not pinned in a plug.
  12. Factory Hitachi, was just gone through and rebuilt. Truck fires instantly, and runs fantastic however at Cold Start it instantly jumps to over 3k RPM, after I tap the gas I can get it down to around 2k. From there it takes quite awhile (more than a couple minutes) to drop, and at the lowest point I can get the idle screw to, it still won’t idle under 14-1500 rpm. Found a couple minor vacuum leaks around the vapor canister, but those shouldn’t affect the idle much if at all.
  13. That’s a bummer, but I suppose if I had to get a 1 wire then I’d just wire it to the light. Finding one in good condition is near impossible.
  14. Quick question, the driver side switch has 3 wires going to it. Mine disintegrated yesterday, and all replacements (including oem) only show 1 wire connections. I’m assuming one of the three wires goes to the lamp timer, which I’d like to keep. Can these be spliced together and hooked to the 1 wire switch, since I’m assuming they just ground the connection?
  15. Problem solved, definitely a face palm moment. Went through the system again, tested voltage, tested key on power, tested the ignition switch during warm and cold cranking. Tested voltage in hot and cold conditions at the coils and ignition module. Found no issues, only that it wasn’t starting. Followed the wires on the bottom of the distributor up to the junction box next to the vapor canister on the driver fender well. It has 3 studs and 3 nuts holding the connections in place, found the third nut (one closest to the firewall to be loose and for some strange reason missing the washer. Repaired connection with a new washer and tightened down. Ran truck for an extended period of time, no issues whatsoever. Now to swap back all the old ignition pieces, new module is causing the misfire (only happened once replaced) and the old coils are obviously good. Now on to the next steps in getting her DD worthy.
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