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Mighty Burger

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About Mighty Burger

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  • Location
    United States
  • Cars
    1983 Datsun 720
  • Interests
    Electronics

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  1. Finished the job! The radio now shuts off when I take the keys out and there's no parasitic draw anymore. Here's what I did in case anyone else needs to do this in the future. The old stuff was sketchy and I'm surprised none of the wires came loose, or that the packing tape never fell off and let the exposed metal short out. I capped off each unused wire stem and redid every connection with a proper solder joint and heat-shrink tubing. If anyone else is doing this crimp connections should work fine (provided you do them properly) I just had solder equipment and was more used to soldering. I prefer heat-shrink to electrical tape because it's cleaner and doesn't fall off over time but honestly anything is better than packing tape... I had to look around for a while under a disgustingly dirty dashboard and after some hunting I found what seems to be the wiring harness and connector that was plugged into the old radio. Someone used blue painter's tape to keep it way up there out of the way. There were multiple wires going into this connector, one of them being brown. Just to confirm I set my multimeter in continuity mode, poked one end into the fusebox at fuse #7 and the other into the connector where the brown wire came in. Sure enough, it beeped soon as I put my keys in and turned it to ACC. So I cut into that brown wire and ran wire down to the radio, of course properly capping everything off to prevent shorts. Also no fuses were blown thankfully. Thanks for the help everyone!
  2. Recently I've been having some issues with starting the truck. It's gotten to the point where this morning I wasn't able to start it up at all. The battery died. After quickly checking I noticed there is a significant parasitic draw of 60mA. It's only become a major problem now because of how cold it's gotten. Thankfully electronics is the one area I'm good at and I was able to nail the problem down to the aftermarket radio someone did a terrible job installing. Think stripping wires, twisting them in a pigtail (no crimp, no solder) and covering the mess in packing tape. I'm going to have to clean up this mess. Without the radio the parasitic draw drops to 3mA. This radio (as well as most other radios out there) have two different positive wires going into them: one that is permanently connected to battery power, and one that is only supposed to be powered on when the key is in the ignition and set to ACC or ON. Well, whoever installed the radio hooked both of the wires to the permanent power source, meaning it stays on even when the key is taken out. I need to find somewhere to connect the radio's ACC wire to so it doesn't draw a bunch of current while the truck's off. Where can I go to tap into this ACC power source that turns on only when the key is in the ignition?
  3. Thank you. The detailed instructions help a ton. I'll post any updates on this. Thanks for the help!
  4. Hey guys. I've posted here once before and you were all really helpful with getting me started on some basics and making my truck run better. I thought I'd come back to ask about this. My 1983 Datsun 720 4WD with a 2.4L engine has a rattling noise, almost like it sounds like a diesel. The sound gets more noticeable when it warms up (which I've noticed takes a while. Looking under the hood, it seems like the fan runs all the time, could this be a thermostat issue?). I think it needs a valve adjustment. I changed the oil recently just for general maintenance and it hasn't affected the noise, so it isn't an issue caused by dirty motor oil. I've noticed a couple other symptoms that I think could be caused by it needing a valve adjustment, like idling really poorly when it hasn't warmed up yet, and I don't want to look into those any further until I adjust the valves. I was looking all over trying to figure out how to do this and I'm a little confused on a few things. I want to get this straight so I don't misadjust any valves and ruin my engine. My confusion is about the process once I have the valve cover off. Here's what I found. There's four cylinders and two valves per cylinder - one intake, one exhaust. The valves on the left (passenger) side are the intake and the valves on the right (driver) side are exhaust, and they both should have a gap of .012" correct? My biggest confusion is about rotating the engine. First, how do I rotate it? Some people said to use a socket and a long ratchet to rotate it. Well.. which way?? Clockwise if you were standing in front of the truck looking under the hood?? Besides I don't have any really long ratchets or pipe to extend the handle of one to turn the engine, would just putting it into 5th and pushing it down the road until it's where it needs to be work? And how in the world do I know when piston #1 is at TDC? Is there any way I could see that just by looking under the valve cover? (I don't know what I'm going to see under the valve cover any pictures would be great.) How much time do I have to do all of this before it cools down too much?
  5. I've been searching for the past hour on Amazon, Ebay and Napa and I can't find anything. I hate asking to be spoonfed but for the life of me I can't find what I'm looking for. I've found some with 10mm diameter threads (assuming that is the correct size due to someone else's comment) and all of them have an absolutely massive barbed tube connection.
  6. Thank you guys for helping me get new oil in everything. Also, the coke trick worked, ended up having to soak it overnight twice but the smell did go away. I'm coming back to ask about the breather tube bolt for the rear differential so the stuff in there doesn't get water in it and turn milky again. I'm having a lot more trouble than I thought I'd have searching for that little tube bolt. Local auto parts store doesn't have anything that fits which is really odd. Is there anything I could get online that would fit? Also, after talking with the previous owners they said something's bent that causes the seal in the front diff to fail very quickly. Seems like I might just have to not use four-wheel drive, maybe except for getting unstuck from snow, I don't think it's something I could fix without spending a bunch of money.
  7. Update! I've replaced all of the oils. The stuff that was in my truck was rancid. It's sounding happier now and the gears shift beautifully. Good stuff! There are a couple issues though. I mentioned how the front differential was almost empty. I now know why - the moment I put oil in, it started leaking badly. The leak comes from the point where the shaft coming from the transfer case meets the front differential. My guess is there's a seal in there that's shot. I have no clue where I could find a replacement seal for it. I'll stay off 4wd for now. Also. You guys didn't warn me about the smell!!! Probably the worst smell I've come across. That's what happens when you have burnt oil rotting away for 36 years. Anyways I got some on my shirt and I put it in the washing machine with other clothes - big mistake!! Now everything smells rancid. I've ran the batch through a few cycles and it's done nothing. I've looked around and people are saying to soak the clothes in coke overnight. It sounds like one of those stupid life hacks that just wastes everybody's time but people say they've had success with it. The clothes are sitting in the stuff right now, I'll see how they do tomorrow. I'm skeptical, probably gonna have to end up buying a new closet
  8. Awesome, thank you. Honestly this was much more helpful than that video I saw, makes a lot more sense now. Pictures helped. I hope it doesn't get to that point, but I should be able to handle just undoing four bolts, moving some things around, replacing the seal and putting everything back together. The video I saw was a whole intricate process, tons of bolts and different bits being taken off, including a tire (???) etc. but it seems a lot easier than that. Hardest part would be reaching up there with all of the 4wd components. I assume if the transfer case or either differential develop a leak it wouldn't be hard to fix those either with a similar process?
  9. Well, darn. I purchased synthetic oil, it was the only type of GL4 any store in my rural town had. I might consider returning it and finding some sort of conventional gear oil online. I did look around, and I wasn't able to find any. In fact I was barely able to find any GL4 at all, but maybe my google-fu needs some work.. I searched a couple videos, and taking the driveshaft off to replace the seal seems like quite a task especially for me. I would guess the fact it's 4wd and the fact the previous owners lifted it would make it even more tedious. How much would a mechanic charge for this job? Maybe I just need to man up and be more confident in my abilities.. If it starts leaking, would taking out the synthetic stuff and putting in the regular oil help? If not, would it help to use some sort of additive like the stuff from Lucas to stop the leak? That was quite the ramble. I'm just trying to figure out what the best thing to do is. Sorry to keep bugging you. I really appreciate the help.
  10. Thank you. I'll cross my fingers and hope it won't leak, if it does, at least the replacement seal doesn't cost much at all. Hopefully this oil change will help to make the truck run as long as possible.
  11. I'm changing the oil in both the front and the rear differential. With a little looking around I found this: https://imgur.com/a/xx4xIw0 (liters on the right), which seems to indicate I would need 2.25 liters or around 2.4 quarts to fill both differentials. Please correct me if I'm missing something. If I have any leftover oil I could just return it, I made sure to keep the receipt. Thank you for being patient with me.
  12. Well, I just went and bought four quarts GL4 and three quarts GL5, 75w90. Gear oil's expensive...
  13. I'm from Idaho. I'm a little concerned about that seal leak. It seems like a difficult task, and I don't think I have the skills to replace that seal. I don't want anything to start leaking if I put synthetic 75w90 in it.. But the only oil I can find of this type (GL4) is synthetic, and it would be nice to be able to shift smoothly when it's freezing outside.
  14. Thank you @Crytek89. Looks like I should be getting 80w90 oil instead of 75w90. I'll see if I can find any. I called around and only one shop in town carried GL4 75w90, they only had Amsoil brand and it would cost me $75 to get a gallon of it.. ouch!!! I'll look around again and see if they have the 80w90. If I cannot find it anywhere, would the 75w90 be acceptable? Also, an update. I took my truck to my high school electronics teacher. We've known eachother for a while, he used to be an airplane mechanic! And he also had a Datsun 720 at one point that he worked on a ton. He helped me check all of the oils, and my suspicion was correct. The transmission oil was thick, dark a little murky, looked degraded. The transfer case oil looked good but was a little low. The front differential was almost bone dry, the little bit of oil that was in there was an awful thick creamy goop - I'll be avoiding 4 wheel drive until I get this taken care of. And the rear differential was horrible. The oil looked creamy, like coffee creamer, nasty and polluted, looks like water got in it. After a little looking around we found a vent hose that goes to the rear diff that was broken off, so every time water got through to that point it just went into the differential. I have absolutely no clue whether I could ever find a replacement part that would fit. I should probably change out these oils pretty quickly here..
  15. Hey guys, I'm new here and new to the automotive field, please be gentle with me I recently got a 1983 Datsun 720. It's a 5 speed manual, 4-wheel drive and has a 2.4L engine, odometer reads 160k miles. Small bed, standard cab. For the age it's running pretty great, but there's a couple things I want to look into fixing. I have lots of trouble shifting from first to second, especially if it hasn't warmed up. It also makes a ton of noise when I put it into four-wheel drive - I know extra noise is normal, but it doesn't sound like it should. I got to thinking and I'm pretty sure none of the previous owners touched the oil in the transmission, transfer case or the two differentials, so I want to change out the oil in all of them (the engine oil was recently changed). I have a couple questions about that. What type of oil should I use? I've looked around a ton and haven't found a conclusive answer that instills confidence.. A couple people have mentioned 75w90 gear oil. So for my transmission and transfer case I would use GL4 75w90 gear oil, and for both differentials I'd use GL5 75w90 gear oil right?? If I can't find that type of gear oil would I be safe using a close equivalent motor oil? And how much oil would I need to buy? (For reference I live in Idaho, we get mildly warm summers around 80s and cold winters below freezing but rarely dipping below 0F) Is there anything I need to be really careful of when doing this? Do you guys have any advice? I've only done a couple minor things so far, like running a new battery cable from the positive terminal to the starter, so I don't have lots of experience but I'd love to learn. I've already asked enough questions but another thing I've noticed, there's a slight rattling noise in the engine, almost like a diesel engine. I think I need to do a valve adjustment. Is that something an amateur like me could handle? Thanks for the help, I'm having lots of fun learning about this sort of stuff.
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