Jump to content


New Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    McDonough, GA
  • Cars
    1985 Nissan 720 King Cab ST 4x4
  • Interests
    Baseball, older Japanese trucks, mainly Nissan/Datsun and Toyota.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

baseballguru44's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges



  1. I have a 1985 300ZX NA. I just replaced the front and rear pads and rotors, the front calipers, and the master cylinder. Everything was installed correctly. The caliper bleeders are facing upward. We bled it according to the factory manual procedure. The new master was bench bled. When the car is off, there is pedal pressure. When turned on, with foot on the pedal, it immediately goes to the floor. It regains some pressure (while on) when pumped multiple times. When we were bleeding, it seemed the pressure was better on the rear calipers than the front. The front had many small bubbles. The only part of the system I have not checked is the brake booster, but wouldn't the pedal go stiff if that were defective? Any advice on what to check next?
  2. I received the ignition coils in the mail. Once installed, it still was having a hard time starting. Missing out very bad. We found that with either coil running to the intake side coil on the distributor cap would cause it to "lock" while starting. But, if either coil was run to ONLY the exhaust side coil on the cap it would start and run perfect every time. We pulled off the cap and noticed that there had been little to no wear on the intake coil contact on the cap and rotor, while the exhaust contact had normal wear. Despite it being a brand new OEM cap and rotor, I ordered and installed some others. After messing with it for several hours, we now have both intake and exhaust coils hooked up, and it runs and drives fine. Cold starts are still a bit rough, but not awful. Again, once warmed up, it runs and drives fine. No backfiring, no stalling. The choke is working properly on my carb, so what could still be causing troublesome cold starts?
  3. A new starter is installed and I have a spare battery. I also ordered some new NGK coils to be 100%. I will go through all of this and update in the next week or so. Thanks!
  4. I went out and messed with it earlier. It is cold outside right now, so vapor smoke is obviously normal, but on cold start it starts very rough. Quite a bit of smoke as well. Blue tinted, not white. Until normal operating temperature is reached, any normal amount of gas will kill it and make restarting very hard. I made a video to show. Once fully warmed up, the issues go away. I checked the fuse, it was good. Are you referring to the main distributor connector? Has red, black, blue, and red wire? Or the singular connector next to the vacuum advance?
  5. It sat for six months. I had a hard time finding an engine replacement after my Z24 block cracked. The long block was rebuilt by the previous owner, but I did everything else. Manifolds, timing kit, etc. I did put some additive in the tank. Not a bad idea. I only added the regulator originally because it seemed like a problem with the Weber, but obviously was unrelated. I will not be adding it back on. I currently am running the Hitachi with no regulator, but if I can get it 100%, I'd like to put the Weber back on. Timing was properly set on the #2 mark on the cam sprocket.
  6. Thanks for the info! I'll check it out.
  7. Sorry for the delayed response. Over the past several days, we had been experimenting again and here are the results. The distributor / wires were correct. I looked over them countless times. Again, it was only an issue at idle so I never seriously considered it. We decided to swap back the OEM Hitachi carb. Once swapped, it ran great for several minutes with no problems. Once the engine warmed up, however, it began backfiring and dying the same as with the Weber, which led us to think the valves. We popped the valve cover off and adjusted them again. Immediately, we noticed several were too tight. Once finished, we went and drove it with next to no problems. A great sign! But, like always, it didn't end there. We were still having problems starting it, but it was inconsistent. Just for the heck of it, we drained my gas tank. It was foul smelling and had turned an orange tint. Immediately put in new ethanol free gas and it got even better. We drove it for a long time with no true problems. Once home, we decided to check the timing again. It was around 5 degrees last time we had checked, but was now around 15 degrees. We adjusted it down to 3 degrees and it ran poorly. Couldn't even back out of the driveway. We put it back to around 11-12 degrees, and haven't had any problems so far. I'm going to drive it over the next few days and post any updates / new issues. Hopefully, if we can get this starting problem sorted out, I can put the Weber back on.
  8. New OEM cap and rotor, new NGK plugs, good NGK wires.
  9. Thanks. This is the most common answer I've received. It doesn't seem to make a noticeable improvement. We started at 1 degree or so and went a degree or two all the way up to 10 degrees. It seemed to run best around 5 degrees.
  10. Thanks. I'll answer in order. It does not blow any smoke out the exhaust, and I just retorqued the head before installing the engine. Loosened one bolt at a time in order and torqued to spec. Engine was completely rebuilt by previous owner around 5000 miles ago (with paperwork). Valve adjustments already completed. I'm currently using good NGK plug wires, brand new BPR6ES and BPR5SE plugs, and new OEM cap and rotor. Compression test probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
  11. baseballguru44

    Weber Woes

    Apologies in advance for the long post. Just trying to describe my situation in as much detail as possible. I own a 1985 Nissan 720 Truck with the Z24 4-cylinder (two plugs per cylinder). I just put in a rebuilt engine and have basically replaced, swapped, or deleted everything in the engine bay. Everything emissions-related is removed. No EGR, vacuum valves, canister, etc. The only vacuum running from the intake is to the brake booster and the distributor vacuum advance. I decided to replace my factory Hitachi carb with a Redline Weber 32/26 DGEV. All components were purchased through All Automotive in California. They are authentic, made in Spain. First off, I do not have any vacuum leaks. Everything is properly sealed or blocked off. I have checked. My starter and my battery are good. Ignition coils/plug wires/firing order is correct. I have a fuel pressure regulator set at 3 PSI. I have tried 0.5-5, and 3 seems to do the best. I have experimented with setting my timing anywhere from 2-10 degrees. The factory timing is 3 degrees at 800 RPM. It seems so far to do best around 5-6 degrees. I have several noticeable problems. First, when turning over to start, it begins to "lock." Appeared to be getting too much fuel. Once it finally starts, any normal amount of gas would cause a backfire through the carb and release gasoline out the top. Please note, when driving down the highway, it runs and drives fine. The main issue is at idle under 1000 RPM. I purchased the 701-DGV4 jet kit and began experimenting with different idle jet sizes. Below is a list of the sizes experimented. The idle screw was always set at 1 1/2 turns, where it’s supposed to be. The timing was around 5 degrees on all these swaps. Stock: Primary 60, Secondary 55 1st: Primary 65, Secondary 55 2nd: Primary 65, Secondary 60 3rd: Primary 70, Secondary 60 (mixture screw at 7/8 turn) 4th: Primary 65, Secondary 60 (mixture screw at 1 1/4 turn) 5th: Primary 60, Secondary 60 (mixture screw at 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 turn) 6th: Primary 70, Secondary 55 (mixture screw at 3/4 - 7/8 turn) Final: Primary 70, Secondary 60 (mixture screw at 7/8 turn) It seemed to do best at 70/60. Sitting and idling, it would only backfire and die with sharp acceleration. But it still backfires out the carb. I went to drive it at those settings, and it did decent, but died on takeoff several times. Additionally, when I was driving in 3rd/4th gear, put it in neutral, allow the RPMs to fall, it would die, and refuse to start again. Had to dump the clutch to start again. After discussion with other owners, contacting Redline multiple times, and experimenting/checking everything I could think of, I don't know what else to do. The only thing I can think of would be a potential float problem. What else on a brand new carb? Please, any advice would be much appreciated. I'm at my wit's end.
  12. It is a lot better now. After standard tune up, I replaced the fuel filter and pump filter, and have been running premium 93 for around a month. Timing was also spot on. Running with no pinging now!
  13. Looking at replacing my rusted out exhaust. 1985 720 4x4 with carb Z24. Wanted to ask opinions mainly on a muffler. I would like something free flowing, not very restrictive, but also not obnoxiously loud. I've heard good about Walker, Magnaflow, Flowmaster, and a few others.
  14. I've been thinking about swapping my stock carb. 1985 720 4x4 with Z24. I've heard good about both the stock and Weber and wanted to gauge some current opinions. What do y'all have (stock, Weber, etc.), how long have you had it, has it impacted your power, fuel economy, etc. Any info would be a huge help. There's a K646 kit online for $300 even, includes a genuine electric choke Redline Weber, adapter plate, linkage kit, and air filter. Also thinking about an MSD ignition box. Any comments on that as well would be appreciated!
  15. Replaced the fuel filter. About to replace the pump filter. Also ran some Seafoam through the tank and carb. I have the respective NGK plugs, brand new. I'll get on the timing though
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.