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Everything posted by Shortmorris

  1. Yeah I have seen several people go with the tesla motor and subframe. I am planning to take that a slightly different route and design the subframe to use a Cascadia Motion/BorgWarner motor and gearbox while changing the rear leaf sprung live axle to an independent horizontal pushrod coilover suspension set-up. This way I can have room for the rear mounted motor, make it more or less bolt in, keep the bed intact, and have room for batteries and power electronics in the front and under the cab.
  2. Updates on the conversion. I'm starting to get some recognition on my project at school requesting funding left and right. If anything it has been the biggest exercise I've ever done in getting grants and funding for a project. I know most other people are just as broke as I am but even little bits help when it comes to projects so I'm leaving a link to my GoFundMe here: https://gofund.me/fab433a7 and the motivation for following through with this project: https://kobi5.com/news/local-news/oit-student-converts-43-year-old-pickup-into-electric-vehicle-178692/
  3. Sad, the links to the pictures are no longer working for me. I am doing some research in doing this or something EXTREMEMLY similar involving an IRS subframe and some other improvements... I would really be interested in knowing/asking more about this.
  4. I am currently trying to do some designing for the conversion but I am unable to start disassembling my truck as I am still moving it to a new location to be worked on. Does anyone happen to have frame dimensions for a '79 Regular cab short bed frame (rough dimensions are find at this point)? Measurements from the bottom of the frame to the underside of the cab and bed, inside width of the frame, and longitudenal lengths between any main support bulkheads would be greatly appreciated.
  5. I have gotten the green light on the project to an extent. After further discussion, I ended up working on my own so I had to reduce the scope of the project. I am now designing a rear conversion to house just the motor at this time. I will finish the rest of the project on my own time after I complete the rear motor mount conversion (possibly an IRS bolt-in subframe). I have started to look around as to what set-ups I should explore more. I have already considered the Tesla rear subframe and large rear drive unit to find a way to bolt it in but it might be far to wide to work out. There is still a possibility of the small drive unit being a better option as it is... smaller of course. I will also be exploring the possibility of using a Cascadia Motion drive motor (single or double) and designing a subframe to house that and convert the rear suspension to IRS, this will most likely have several iterations before it will ever be ready for final use but allows for a better form factor to be achieved. Lastly is an form that I have heard of but I don't think has hit the market yet. It is a conversion that pretty much bolts an electric motor to the rear diff of a solid axle. this would allow for the original leaf suspension to be used (or the 4x4 720) and require even less modification, besides you know converting the rest of the system to electric (battery packs, converters, etc.). The one that I have seen in this form factor looked to be targeted towards full-sized trucks so maybe this would be able to used on more smaller import models. If anyone could help out with possible subframe recommendations that would possible fit the 620 track width that would be great help, as I have limited space to amass a collection of bulky donor parts (240sx, 350z, and Miata are the ones I have looked into already). I PMed you and you have my number for future communication
  6. Thanks for the input so far. I have been doing a little more digging into components and set-ups this summer and I'm between a couple options right now. The easiest I think might be "bolting" an electric motor to the drive shaft, where the L20b and transmission sit currently, and running the rear diff as is, converting the suspension to coil overs (hopefully I can find or convince Beebani to make another kit), adding some batteries between the frame and drive shaft under the bed and the rest of the components in the engine bay. I found a manufacture locally that is actually pretty well known for EV conversions and has partnered with AEMev to develop a fair amount of solutions for the whole project. The second is utilizing the rear small drive unit from a Tesla model 3. This would allow me to maintain it's original suspension (might have to make the truck a little wider but that's what wide bodies are for right?), figure out front hubs to match and allow me to update the front suspension at the same time. This would give me more room in the front for batteries and electronics under the front end of the bed. I wouldn't be entirely opposed to modifying the frame to make everything tuck up underneath better, but I have also been playing around with the idea of making the conversion more of a kit that could be sold like the EV West kits eventually depending on how it all turns out. I'll be sure to document everything as much as I can because I will have to for my senior project for my school. So lets hope for the best finding supporters for acquiring most of the really expensive components: Motor: Tesla rear small drive unit or Cascadia Motion SS-250-115S or iDM-190 (integrated Module) Torque box: Torque Trends ev-torquebox Batteries: Tesla modules or Cascadia Motion SV 'Mini' battery module (CM-14s8p) w/ BMS Battery management system (BMS) Charge controllers, DC/DC Converter: Cascadia Motion Combo Unit VCU: AEMev VCU-200 Inverter: Tesla or Cascadia Motion CM200DX or PM150DX Cooling system Brakes: Wilwood, 300zx, D21, Silverminemotors Front suspension: Beebani??? or Honda Civic Type-R Front suspension (5x120 pattern) Rear suspension: Beebani (if using rear diff/drive shaft), Mazda Miata rear suspension, Tesla rear subassembly, Honda S2000? Frame work: If a new frame has to be fabricated to accommodate the Tesla rear SDU/suspension Body work: Hakotora conversion (Panch kits) Interior: Custom 3D printed dash, seats, carpet (leftcoastdatsun), heat/AC (BorgWarner high voltage heater), center console (touchscreen infotainment, tablet) As most of you can already assume most of these parts can and will be expensive. I will go ahead and throw it out there, if anyone would like to help or know someone that might be willing to help an aspiring college student source and afford any or all of these parts, I implore you to please contact me ASAP as my ideal time frame is from October 2021 to June 2022 to complete this project, if I plan to have a working (bare minimum) prototype by the deadline. I would definitely consider partnerships in future endeavors with bringing a kit or at least instructions/plans to market. BTW if there is a mod that can add this post and a slot or two to the top of this thread for future posts that would be cool!
  7. Hope this post is appropriate for the section. I'm going for a bachelor's in renewable energy engineering and wanted to propose an electric conversion for my '79 620 for my senior project. I've seen a couple older truck conversion done around the internet but wanted to see if there was any Datsun specific information any of you my have to contribute. I know this thread could get a little off topic in respects to Datsun components as the Nissan leaf is the only Nissan electric car out there, but I've been playing around with the idea of a Tesla model 3 small rear electric drive unit or an electric swap for the L20B, that is currently in it, and bolting it to the 5 speed transmission. I'm not going for super high performance drift action, but wanted to do more than just a backyard lead acid battery set up. With future plans of doing a custom interior I was also curious if there was any members from the Portland area that might also have access to 3D scanning equipment?
  8. While I'm sure there are other topics asking what wheels people have, I'm trying to figure out what wheels I have. The tire on it is a 165/65R14. I really like the look of it but want something a little wider in the future. Any help would be appreciated.
  9. Well I technically still need to get one of those too. I've seen about there different types so far, is there a particular one that is better and doesn't have to be modified to work with the stock cable or can be used with a cable that doesn't have an end on it? https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=836 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99007.551.htm https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=181
  10. I finally got ahold of them and they sent it a replacement kit. I was looking through the different parts before sending the 38 kit back and noticed the part number for the accelerator pump diaphragm were the same but there were two different version. Would there be any reason to keep one over the other?
  11. I ordered a rebuild kit for the 32/36 DGV. I was sent a 38/38 DGEV rebuild kit... The part numbers are different but are they still interchangable?
  12. Reviving an old thread, but I was curios if 720 seats, or at least brackets made for the 720, will bolt straight into the 620? I found a company that makes race seat brackets but they don't make one for the 620. https://www.plantedtechnology.com/application-guide Other wise I think the PO has the Integra seats but the back bolt locations aren't bolted down. Does anyone have a picture as to what is needed to attach that?
  13. I have been doing some research on rebuilding my 32/36 and found that those 40 mm and 50 mm were for an older model of float and the changed it to the 18 mm and 23 mm for the neoprene floats. That last documentation says 18 mm and 2 mm of travel, is that 2 mm measured at the carb power valve assembly? Does that 5 mm travel measured on the float translate to that 2 mm of travel closer to the pivot point of the float?
  14. What center console is that? Does it go all the way back to the rear wall or is there some space still?
  15. I'm wondering if this could be the issue. I wasn't sure how to tell if there is a leak somewhere without disassembly and replacing gaskets. I read somewhere that if you spray starter fluid around the mounting surfaces, if there is a leak it should change the idle? Not sure if I understood that correctly.
  16. Worse as in higher idle speed? Or slower like a tractor? The top is the primary, it's a little wet looking because it was sitting for a bit and I had to spray some starter fluid in it to get it running again. The choke doesn't seem to be working as it is always open as in the pictures. The carb itself is labeled as DGAV (water operated) but it has an electronic choke on it, PO must have modified it and the wire send to be connected to a 12 V source and that is it.
  17. The throttle cable is pretty loss and the lever is completely forward so I don't think the throttle is engaged. I looked into the opening at the throttle plate and the primary is titled a little at neutral setting and the secondary looks slightly open but it's pretty hard to tell for sure. The idle lever adjustment is completely off the linkage. Is there somewhere else to adjust the primary and secondary throttle plates? When they are closed should they be completely level/horizontal?
  18. So I haven't changed anything on the carb yet but it started idling at a high rpm. Without taking the carb off or apart it appears everything is still operating properly, the choke is open all the time though. The idle speed screw is not touching the lever, and I tried turning in the idle mixture screw (less fuel?) And it continues to idle high. Is there anything else I should check before pulling things apart? Not sure if it matters but a cap that was on the valve cover PCV connection feel apart right around the time I noticed, but putting my finger over it doesn't seem to change anything.
  19. So I haven't changed anything on the carb yet but it started idling at a high rpm. Without taking the carb of or apart it appears everything is still operating properly, the choke is open all the time though. The idle speed screw is not touching the lever, and I tried turning in the idle mixture screw (less fuel?) And it continues to idle high. Is there anything else I should check before pulling things apart? Not sure if it matters but a cap that was on the valve cover PCV connection feel apart right around the time I noticed, but putting my finger over it doesn't seem to change anything.
  20. I think I found the part/parts that I am looking for but is it a Weber thing or an original Hitachi carb thing? The part I am talking about is the 1/4 circle the end of the cable attaches to and any parts that attach it to the carb.
  21. Like you can't see the picture? I am new to this forum host and it was a bit of a pain to post a picture. It shows up for me when I open the thread...
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