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Everything posted by slowlearner

  1. Thanks, it's almost as good on the back too. I'm going to cut across the whole panel and weld it back together using compressed air to cool the welds down. Then I'll have a go at the real panel. In other news, I was having a look at the heater fan wiring tonight. Fiddling with the switches and the like too. I haven't been able to make it work since I got the car and I need it for rego. I was all set to pull the dash apart and when I turned the accessories on I could hear the fan running! Fiddled with the switch a bit more and all the speed settings work now too. Pretty
  2. Functionally, your intake runners will be wetted anyway because at high speed the runners will have a constant stream of fuel pulses spraying on them anyway. The sequential is good for individual cylinder tuning.
  3. Just back from a week of holidays in the country. Still got a week of leave left to get the car ready for rego. Started on some more welding practice this morning. It's finally looking decent. Just need to get a new air gun for my compressor so I can practice cooling the panel down between spots.
  4. slowlearner

    KHB310 in Borneo

    Love those old sunnys. A friend of my parents had a wagon. First car I ever rode in with aircon and tinting. Don't worry about purity. Datsun was always a 'parts bin' company. Make it run and enjoy it.
  5. Sorry dude, but that last pic of your grubby face had me think of scooby snacks! ðŸĪĢ
  6. Yeah, thanks for that. I've actually tried this. The issue is that the metal is too thin relative to the cutting disk. So on heavier gauge steel it works well. On the thin stuff our dattos are made of, it leaves too big a gap... and you know how that ends. 😞
  7. This might be getting way out of control... but what the hey! Down the rabbit hole we go!!! 🐇ðŸĪŠ
  8. I was thinking the same. I read US rod mags for years and most of them looked, well... like they'd fallen out the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down. ðŸĪĒ
  9. I'll try that next. I'm going to do some more practice first. I've been at the welding shop this morning. Bought a new mask as we discovered the old one I had was truly knackered. Hopefully that should help. The old one was free and owed me nothing anyway so I'm not sad.
  10. Here's a pic of the back of the welds. Looks alright to me.
  11. Seems like it's very securely attached with the stiches. If you can't see it, I don't see why welding up the gaps really matters.
  12. Had some major work issues occupying my mind recently and sleep hasn't been plentiful, but on Saturday and today, I managed to do some welding practice on an old bonnet I have. The weld's you can see are the second go I've had at welding on this metal. On the first go, I had a try at the "overlapping patch" technique. It didn't work because the steel is so thin and the cutting disk is a little too thick. I'm going to look into some thinner cutting disks, but even then, I don't think it will work. I've hit on these as effective settings for the me
  13. That's exactly what happened. Yes, they were hard against each other. The gas is meant to be MIG mix. Argon and CO2. Worked ok that morning and since on bare metal.
  14. So, the issues I had were two fold... 1. Welding through the hole was ok-ish, but not great. 2. As soon as the weld touched the "hole" edge on the outer panel, it blew through the panel. So there was enough heat for one panel, but way too much for the edge. I tried grinding back the primer with a wire brush and retouching the scrappy welds and my experience was nearly the same. I'm pretty sure more heat would have caused bigger blow throughs. So yeah, not quite sure what to do. Short bursts of weld garnered the same results as longer welds. 😞
  15. Hey! Hang on! What's with buying an old car with a decent battery! That's not how it's spose to work! ðŸ˜Ķ
  16. In the bottle, the fuel looks similar to what came out of mine. You want 2 new fuel filters on the car now. One under the tank. One before the pump in the engine bay. Change them once you've been driving it... Or if they block up first. 😁
  17. Thanks for the encouragement. It's not completely terrible, it's just not what I wanted. I think I'll be doing some practice on an old bonnet I have before putting the quarter panel on.
  18. Today was a bit of a mixed bag. First the good... Having established that the bottom edge of the rear inner wheel arch was too thin and nasty to try welding things too, I cut it out and patched it. Nothing anyone will ever see or award me for, but decent welds. Decent grinding. Altogether very solid and acceptable. Then I went out to pick up a child and have lunch. Having come back, I got the drop panel ready for installation. A heap of 8mm holes, grinding the paint back and then weld through primer. Got it clamped in place and started welding...
  19. you're a better man than me Noll. So much rust...
  20. Please tell me the head is getting ported and a bigger cam at the same time. Remember Newton's 5th rule. ðŸĪ“ Repairs = Upgrades 😄
  21. Not heaps to update, but a few little things. On the bodywork front, I've finally managed to get the drop panel in position. It fits ok, but I ended up having to cut a slot in the back of the car to get it in. I suspect, most people would just cut more of the quarter panel off to get it in, but I'm trying to avoid that if I can for now. I figure I can fill it with weld later. I'm good at filling holes. 😄 On reflection, I think I am going to try that "overlap" panel technique. After all, what can possible go wrong.
  22. I've been distracted by things like house insulation, but I have a working temp sensor for the motor, yay! I get to keep the factory temp sender, so that the dash still works.
  23. Wow, thanks heaps for that! I'm surprised by how quiet the engine is. There's still a note of L series 4, but it's mostly muffled by your watercooled headers and the "jet" engine on the back. 😆
  24. Love to hear some footage of the L20 running in the boat. 🙂
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