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Everything posted by slowlearner

  1. Buy a cheap engine stand second hand off Craigslist and do yourself a favor. In fact, you probably know someone who has one lying around. I was given mine and offered two others in a one year period. They make life so much easier. That L28 looks a bit crusty. Does it turn over by hand?
  2. Amen to replacing all the seals while it's out. Throw it on a stand and go over it properly. Rear main seals are the worst and the hardest to replace in the car... Werl, except for the sump gasket. Oh man, I did it in the car and what a mission! 😣
  3. Unless your rotors are ruined, I'd just fix what's there. I assume there are easy up options for calipers. I actually swapped my struts out for 200B struts. Maybe look into something like that. An easy, factory parts bin option... but yeah. Keeping the 13s might be an issue. I tried to lend some stock 13" rims to a S13 owner on the weekend and they wouldn't fit over his back calipers. LOL
  4. Had a good day out today at my club motorkhana... CACA motorkhana at SMC 15.5.21 - YouTube Whilst having a good time, I realized that I am still not used to driving the car in anger, let alone on top of how to get it to go faster. I was hoping to get it to drift more easily but really failed. The hydro handbrake did help a lot, but I wasn't really on top of when to use that either. At the end of the video, you'll see me "testing the diff" in the distance. Basically, I wanted to see whether the car was up to doing proper donuts or not. The good news is it is. I'm just not succeeding at the moment. I was also pretty tired and making lots of silly mistakes today, so that didn't help. I guess I've had 2 decades of driving aircooled VWs in khanas and the front engine/rear drive datto is a big change from that. I had my tyres setup with 26/40 PSI front to rear but that wasn't enough. The front wheels were washing out while the 2 way LSD just gripped harder. I'm starting to think that some sway bars might be needed to help me a little. I'd be keen to hear people's thoughts on this.
  5. I've been at this job for the last 2 weeks and what a pain... I bought the hydro handbrake last year but not the lines that were available with the kit. I should have sprung for the lines I now know. So I've been slogging it out trying to get the brake lines in and it's taken me three goes to the get the fittings and ends right. I had it all in yesterday and realized I had it hooked up the wrong way around. So back to the brake shop again today. Thankfully, the local brake shop was just awesome. Never angry or sick of me. Just patient and helpful. I gave him a 6 pack today to say thankyou. 🙂 So now it's finished and just as well. Motorkhana on Saturday!
  6. There should be 2 bolts holding the caliper onto the strut. Usually, they're only visible from the back on strut. Tech Wiki - Strut swaps : Datsun 1200 Club Scroll down the page and you'll find two struts with yellow springs. You can see the front and back view to see where the bolt heads are. 😉
  7. Noice work there. I guess you have to swap hands to change gears when doing handbrakes turns. 😄
  8. Awesome $1.20. You're right. Those coupes are super rare. I'm glad to see you're not blowing it into a million parts and over-restoring it. Just make it work and enjoy it. The man you'll need for parts is Stewart Wilkins. He is Mister Datsun. HOME (swmotorsport.com.au) And the A14 is a great little motor (I'm surprised to hear it was in a Pulsar though). A set of SUs will make it go a bit harder without wrecking your fuel economy. These guys are a wealth of info for A series motors (and other bits)... Forum : Datsun 1200 Club
  9. LOL. And yeah, you don't need to put the tape on the inside of the tank. Just on the outside. I've used a few different sealers now and the Caswell was the best. It's also ethanol safe... and that's saying something. The coating on the inside of my beetle tank was awesome. It looked like honey but was super tough. I'll be using it on my 1600 tank soon.
  10. Don't bother brazing. Just get some of this stuff... https://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/epoxy-fuel-tank-sealer Much better than POR15.
  11. I dread to think what your plugs looked like. 😨 What you're really saying is, NA motors only need AFRs of 12.6 at WOT. Any richer and you're just blowing fuel out the pipes. People have this weird perception that a lean tune is a bad thing. Truth being that engines can run fine on lean tunes as long as 1. they're not under heavy load (high heat), and 2. you don't allow them to pre-ignite. I mean think about it, diesels run super lean under light load and don't hole pistons. In fact, they run cooler. On a petrol engine, you just need more advance to prevent pre-ignition. At higher revs (and low load) you also need more throttle, because the engine is using more air, but you get used to that. The motor should also run cooler because of the extra air. The upside is that when you lean on the throttle a little, you get insta-boost. You don't need a "power tune" and a "fuel saver tune". The thing about EFI is you have the capability and resolution to get the tune right everywhere. You only need different tunes for different fuels.... unless you have a flex sensor. 😉 On a related note, @Skib if you check my tables, you'll notice mine start at 40kpa. Under 40 is just deceleration (and you can use fuel cut). I've got the most resolution between 40-100. This is because ideally you want the best, smoothest tuning in the "street driving" sections of the map. 40-90kpa is where that all happens really. My AFRs switch hard from 16 to 14.7 at 92kpa where boost begins to kick in.
  12. Wow, that's really cool! As Monty Python once said, "Lukshureh!!!" 🤣
  13. Man, looking really tidy. Great work. Looking forward to what comes next... and your MS setup. 🙂
  14. Looking good. Takes me back to my old turbo beetle. Can't wait til I can get my Microsquirt installed on my L18. Re ignition timing and AFRs. It's possible to run the AFRs a LOT leaner than that for better milage. I ran my bug at up to 17 AFR for cruising and had no dramas. You do need to add more timing (up to 5deg), especially as the revs rise. You can see that in the ignition map. The pay off is the car uses a LOT less fuel at cruising speeds and on the freeway. People are often afraid to go past 14.7 for fear of going lean but manufacturers will run up to 18 AFR on very light loads for economy. With EFI, we can easily allow for that and our plugs don't end up full of carbon.
  15. So, does that Maxima have IRS? I'm really surprised to hear that.
  16. It's interesting how different the datsuns you got in the US were different to what we got down here. I don't think anyone could have imagined an LD28 "bluebird" here. With the lights and mascot on the bonnet it looks like a US made car to me. Weird. We got an L20B 4 banger car with a live rear axle. Of course there were a few "import" race cars... George Fury: 1983 Nissan Bluebird Turbo (tradeuniquecars.com.au) and this... The last iron warrior: Geoff Portman's Nissan Bluebird - RallySport Magazine Jap ended up modded and VERY fast, but never 6 cyl cars.
  17. Fantastic. Although... if that turbo is for a 3 litre petrol, you might find it's a bit big for the diesel = lots of lag.
  18. This is AWESOME! I hope you have some boost planned for it. 🙂
  19. Hey @Atomic how is it all going? Keen for an update. 🙂
  20. Got some second rate welding done today and the spacers are finished. Now if I can just find a welder...
  21. Stew Wilkins was telling me that's the only thing that goes wrong with the 71C trans. The gears are super tough apparently.
  22. They're highly regarded. Should work well.
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