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slowlearner

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Everything posted by slowlearner

  1. I wish I had more to report today, but werl… I spent most of the day with my wife and daughter going to and from a 15min medical appointment. In retrospect, I think my wife wishes she'd left me at home. I'm philosophical. My daughter has had a major eye infection the last two weeks and seeing the specialist was really a privilege. Three hours of traffic and an hour waiting not so much. Anyhow, I managed to get some calliper bolts off my Datsun guru on Sunday. Went to put them on today and of course, they were too long. I destroyed my last hacksaw blade shortening the first one. So
  2. One of the guys from my car club runs a 4wd/rally channel on Youtube. Thought you might enjoy this vid. It's full of 510s, a 610 and a Violet (stanza). Dattos are still very popular club rally cars over here. You should subscribe. A lot of his classic rally vids have datsuns in them.
  3. Back out in the shed for a short while this afternoon. Got the driver side brake drum done so both are ready for bleeding now. Yay! πŸ˜ƒ Have to say, I don't understand that whole ridiculous 'lock plate' system. Why couldn't they just have a double acting slave like everyone else. It would have more than halved my install time. Groan. Anyway, that's done now. So hopefully I won't have to rebuilt it any time soon. Having done that, I was all ready to install the front calipers when I discovered something... No caliper bolts... πŸ˜–
  4. I've got a 69 510. It's a dry, country car and amazingly rust free aside from one spot under the fuse box and a little bit on the frame rail. The rear quarters, doors, etc have very, very little in the way of rust. A few tiny bubbles, but much of it is just surface rust and gravel rash. What I want to do is treat it somehow to prevent it from spreading as much as possible. The car has very thin, original paint, but it's just getting a generous coat of wax. I'm avoiding panel work. So what can I spray inside the door bottoms and rear quarters to arrest what rust is in there now?
  5. Well, this afternoon I signed some papers that will pretty much obliterate the datto budget for the next little while. Lucky I bought all the expensive things before that happened. Of course my wife wants the car driving in the next 3 months. It's doable, but maybe not on $0. This oughta be interesting... πŸ™„
  6. Not a lot to report, but the front rotors are on and I managed to surgically remove the 20yo front brake hoses. Mmmm, I've gone through 1 can of INOX (rust penetrant) on the car so far. I'm expecting to use more yet. Although it's not bad for what it is really. Speaking of INOX. I'm sort of wondering what to do about the bottoms of the doors and the rear quarters. There is the very beginnings of rust in them, but I'm not going to cut them open till it's proper. I know I could put cavity wax in there (I'm waxing the outside), but I'm wondering about spraying some penetra
  7. Right, that makes sense. I bought a Spartan II, so I'll be using that. I agree the LC2 is a pain. It forever ate sensors. I also don't really see the point in a gauge once the motor is set up and tuned as the ECU looks after mixtures. During the tuning, the software tells me my mixtures anyway from the Spartan's input. I'm not using a distributor. On the last motor I used just a crank angle sensor and a 36-1 wheel. Like last time, I'm also using the VW golf coilpack MS recommends for wasted spark. I never had a drama. I guess I could use the dizzy as a cam signal. BTW,
  8. Thanks. A base tune would be awesome. The VW manifolds are ITBs. The TBs are not shared. I'll post a better pic and you'll see what I mean. There's a wall between each runner. In other news, my Microsquirt turned up the other day. So I guess I'll be working on that at some stage. Also got my Spartan Wideband. The spartan manual says I need the sensor 2' from the port. Here's my issue. My headers are 4-2-1. 2' from the port is part of the 2 section, not the big 1 section past the last merge. Is this going to be ok for WB figures?
  9. Managed to go pick up my suspension bits from SW Motorsport this week. Good news all around and I have to give Stuart big props again. Here is also the Subaru 2 way LSD. Mmmm, skids. The plan was to fit these (slightly modded) Bilstein inserts into a pair of 200b/810 struts he was swapping me for my Stanza/A10 struts. Thing is, when he pulled the 200B struts apart, they had Bilstein inserts in them too. He had a good laugh at himself. So he gave me the struts/inserts for the cost of modding the other inserts. So I have 2 sets of Bilstein inserts now.
  10. Don't knock it til you try it. πŸ˜‰ As mentioned in the original post, my previous ACVW with the simple Megasquirt (Microsquirt) ran great. The only things that let me down were factory parts off other cars, idle motor and injectors. It is the cheapest ECU money can buy here too. Our current exchange rate is US0.67c, paypal then lowered that to 64c. For that reason alone, I avoid any of the big brands like Holley etc. The features of MS2 are about level with Mid-late 1990s factory ECUs. If I wanted to go crazy, I could add sequential spark and fuel, but for a street motor it's hardly
  11. Hi guys, In the throws of getting a hot L18 ready for a 510 I've just bought. The plan has always been to convert the car to EFI using a megasquirt 2 (Microsquirt) ECU. Then yesterday, my neighbor, an old ski boat racer and machinist suggested we try something different than building a plenum for my weber manifolds and welding injector bungs on them. In a moment of brilliance I pulled out these old ITBs I had for a VW motor and the spacing of the ports is very similar. So we're hoping to make some alloy adaptors and use them with more modern injectors. I per
  12. At the same time, I've been buying parts for my EFI conversion. My favorite person is none to happy with me, but Mario at the Dubshop has done me a great deal. So a Microsquirt is on the way along with a PDM that's easy to put together. The Aussie Dollar is US0.67c and then Paypal helpful reduced that to US0.64c, so even a cheap ECU like the Microsquirt wasn't cheap, but oh well. 😞 Needing to be careful now, because I'm getting close to my budget for the whole build. πŸ™„ Anyway got this whole exhaust off ebay for $90 the other day. In slight
  13. Got a new side indicator for the car the other day. Managed to swap my later model repro units for 2 NOS parts. Excellent parts with loom, connectors and even a panel grommet. So now I have these...
  14. Yeah, I know what you mean. All those lines will be zip tied up out of danger. I just wanted to make sure they worked first. Been working on a few things. This was today's big feat... Finally got this done. Lock is working well too. Time to vacuum all the dust out and put it back together. Dropped off my struts to be swapped over today. Stewart will shorten the Bilstein inserts. Not ideal, but satisfactory as long as I don't launch the car or hammer it across big bumps. Car is also getting an Exedy Sports 2000 clutch. In other news, the STi LSD i
  15. More work today. Another visit to SW Motorsport. Big props to Stewart. Seems we've found a compromise to the stanza strut issue. Back at home I was pulling struts apart and de-rusting my lightened flywheel. Yes, it was as bad the rusty one to begin with. The hubs got similar treatment before I pulled them off the struts. Bearings look good so they'll get a light regrease before going on 200B struts. All the pedals are now in and appropriately set up. Real evidence the brake lights work. Yay! In othe
  16. More progress today. Brake lights all work, as do parkers. 😊 Clutch and brake pedals from the manual box are both in. This involved pulling the handbrake braket off the fire wall. Man, what a job! Course I need to redrill the brake pedal for the clevis pin and booster. Should have seen that coming from looking at the old brake pedal. Oh well. πŸ™„ Fuel system works well and the car run ok, up to temperature on the gauge too. Very pleased with this. I am having a weird issue with the ignition key barrel. The motor will fire every time on the starter. However, there's s
  17. Feel like I'm getting nowhere with this thing, but that's not reality. So trying to document little, but important things that are getting done. As I mentioned last time, I had to pull the tank out. It was pretty grubby in there, but that wasn't the worst of it. The outlet pipe inside the tank, 6mm OD, was completely clogged with rust and who knows what else. I tried 100psi of compressed air, wire and various chemicals but in the end, I just gave up. I've blocked off the outlet and used the larger return as the fuel supply. I know it's not ideal, but for now, it'll have to do.
  18. repairs = upgrades πŸ˜€
  19. K, will try that. Put 100psi into the fuel like today. Seems like the outlet of the tank is uber blocked. 😞 However, I did discover something rolled up tight next to the fuel tank... It's only the outside cover the booklet. But interesting none the less. However, when I unrolled it, I found this! And that's when I got excited. It tells me a few things I suspected already. It's definitely a 69' model. It's lived most of it's life in Tamworth, deep in the country. That's why it's so straight and rust free. Awesome, awesome stuff. I've
  20. That moment you realize you should have blown out the lines BEFORE you put 3 gallons of fuel in the tank. 😞
  21. Bought a 200B/810 dogleg 5 speed last night from a mate. Spent the night wondering about what to do about the 'fabricated crossmember' rule for NSW rego. Apparently it requires engineering. Completely stupid really. Having climbed under the car for a squiz, I found this. There's some creative engineering going on down here. Had to laugh really. The good news is my new gearbox appears to fit with the cross member in the stock position. Having run a few errands I got back into it tonight. With the carb back on the motor, it fired up almost straight away.
  22. This week is basically, 'try and get Nanna going' week. I've got the whole week off work and a (sort of) unlimited budget to get the car running. The two big things are... 1/ Make it run. 2/ Make it stop. I'm sure my wife feels like no.2 about my whole car habit. Anyway, she's stuck with me. 😁 1/ Make it run. Before I went away I got a good spark and the starting turning well. My issue now is the fuel system. Having put a new filter in and cranked it over, the fuel bowl started leaking. I put it back together with a little RTV and then, of cour
  23. Interested to hear how this goes. What size is your motor? Are the injectors small enough for it?
  24. Great to see an old truck being used properly. πŸ™‚
  25. I just finished an aircooled VW turbo project. They need more oil for a turbo setup. Either with a bigger pan, a cooler or both. I did both because I live where it gets to 100F pretty regularly. I'm a little mystified why you'd need that cooler in Finland. How hot does it get there in the Summer? P.s. I'm enjoying your build though. πŸ™‚
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