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Posts posted by slowlearner

  1. Drained the fuel tank. 2 1/2 gallons. Then cut the fuel line and spill several quarts on the ground before I managed to get the other 2 gallons into a jerry can. Yeah, classy I know. I can still smell the fuel on me a day later. Enough whining...




    Still, I managed to get the new tank in and started hooking it up. No, I still won't light a match in there. 

  2. Hi everyone, been a while between postings. Between lockdown and dog bites... don't ask.


    Anyhow, hit the shed last night and got the intake manifold on the car. 




    I have driven the car ECU ignition + carbs. It was alright, but I'm really looking forward to getting the fuel system working. That's the next thing I've got to work on. Fuel tank swaps and running high pressure fuel lines. Yay.

  3. 11 hours ago, Noll said:



    Indeed! I'm still aiming to have it on the road next week some point, even if that means next friday at 11:59pm lol. brake bleeding, coolant bleeding, make sure engine is playing nice (mostly making sure the rear carb float is set right), set toe, and finish assembling the doors and she'll be ready.





    8 hours of driving in a torrential downpour later (seriously, there was insane rain the whole day/evening), I have a passenger door in really solid shape.




    The only actual rust that will need to be dealt with eventually is that front corner spot, anything else it just bits of surface rust. The 'bad' corner I'll probably just clean, seam seal, and get some paint on for now to keep it from getting worse, but It's not bad enough that I feel the need to do anything about it just yet.


    That's pretty much how I feel about most of the rust in mine. 

    • Like 2
  4. Very Excited, been mucking around with the loom and sensors. Then getting the base timing right on the first go today. Straight away the motor fired up using the ECU to run the ignition system. Amazingly, I set the gap in the 36-1 wheel 2 teeth before TDC. When I rolled the engine over on the timing light it was bang on 10deg btdc fixed timing like it should have been. I just need to mark the toothed wheel where it lines up with the mark on the pulley. 


    I've left the dizzy and coil in position just in case there are issues. Not that I'm expecting any. 



    • Like 1
  5. I've been chipping away at the loom recently. I got it 95% done and in the car to start working on the various sensor hook ups. Today, I finally got the crank, coolant and air intake temp sensors all working. I had the crank sensor wired in backwards and it needed a resistor to get rid of background noise. But it's all working! I'm yet to get the base timing right, even though the coilpacks work.





    • Like 1
  6. 7 hours ago, datzenmike said:



    You've blocked off most of the flow of air getting through by vehicle speed alone. This fan will be on way more than it needs to and I doubt it will move as much air as the stock fan so I would hazard a guess that you will have cooling problems. I would leave the right side open. My rad set up is similar with two Subaru fans. One like yours, the other re-wired to push and mounted on the front right as the pulley is in the way also.. They were too big to sit side by side so there is several inches of overlap.


    Where is the temperature sensor located?


    I've talked to a few locals and their setups they are all like this including a friend's rally car. I will test it out though and if there are problems I'll add some rubber flaps to the back of the shroud like OEM applications. The flaps are pushed open by oncoming air, but suck shut when the fan switches on.


    Just btw, some years ago, I looked into what sorts of airflow a radiator needed to work properly. To my shock, I was advised by an industry expert that they only needed 40% laminar airflow to work at the front. Most of the flow comes from vacuum created by the front of the car. So, even though the radiator looks blocked I'm confident this will work well for me like it has done for others. However, I'll be the first to put up my hand and confess if I've got it wrong. 🙂 

  7. Day off today. In between weeding, walking, making pizza dough and hanging with my family (we're all still in lockdown) I got to work on the fan. I bought this 9" unit after measuring and procrastinating for a week. It just fits on the carb/exhaust side of my chinese ebay aluminium radiator.




    Materials are a little scarce atm but I put this old sign away when the church was throwing it out. It's 2mm steel, so overkill, but free... and I like the patina. 🙂




    I wanted to fold the edges of the panel over to make some rigidity, but I don't have a panel break and I tried with some clamps and a steel bar. No cigar. So I ended up adding two strips of alloy channel (from my junk metal pile) and tying more of the fan into the panel.




    I am a pastor, so I had to laugh when I saw it finished and those words on the inside somewhat visible. I also found some rubber strip in my box of hoses and junk. Here it is installed...






    Of course, when I took these pics I realized the fan was on upside down, but all fixed now. I have just enough room to get belt in between the pulley and the fan. Squeezy!




    Just have to wire it into the ECU now.

  8. Waiting for some tape to come in so I can finish my loom. In the mean time, I'm trying to get little things done. So having removed the factory fan, I was able to finally install the crank sensor and 36-1 wheel. I still need to time the wheel but I need to get the loom finished before I can hook up the ECU to do that.





  9. 10 hours ago, KELMO said:

    The price he threw out there was 15K.


    I haven't said no yet, but I also haven't said yes.


    Might need that hug after all.


    Interesting to hear. That's a proper price. 510s are big money over here atm. Wagons not so much. Which has always made me wonder about the difference between the US and Aust scenes. Almost no one over here hops up wagons, but they make a lot of sense if you want to go drag racing or similar... or you want the extra space. 😉 

  10. So apparently 6yo, half slime RTV doesn't seal properly. And I also discovered the newer temperature sensor I had wasn't right for my stock temperature gauge, which I want to keep. So the thermostat housing came off again. A proper gasket and some new sealant. I also took the opportunity to measure the resistance of the efi coolant sensor for the ECU. 



  11. I spent half the day working on the car today. Pulling the radiator and the thermostat housing. Cleaning out the fuel tank and putting the liner kit in it... The tank liner didn't work properly. 😞 Basically it seems like the weather was too cold (23degC) so the epoxy was too thick. That was after I waited for warm weather and followed the instructions to a T. I think I'm gonna just run E10 and hope for the best.


    After that, the thermostat housing leaked and I had to pull it off and try again. Hopefully it won't leak this time. However, I did get the fan removed and a thermo fan ordered. Coz buying parts is the same as doing things, right?

  12. On 8/26/2021 at 2:42 AM, Lockleaf said:

    Looking at your diagram, I'm not sure you have all the grounds you need for both relays to operate. This is a random wiring diagram I pulled from the internet for 4 pin relays.  Whatever the shape of the relay, any 4 pin should work this way

    Wiring Diagram 4 Pin Relay Fitfathers Me Fancy At Relay Wiring Diagram 4 Pin  | Relay, Electrical circuit diagram, Electrical wiring diagram

    85/86 = one circuit with power in and power out (direct to ground usually).

    87/30 = one cirucit with power in and power out (power out to the accessory(s) you want to run via the relay.


    You have R2 85 mapped to "ECU/Fuel Pump".  This will work if you plan the relay to get to ground directly through those, or on the same ground as those.  However, those two items will be routed through the low power side of the relay, not the high power.  If you want them routed through the relays, you will want those routed through an 87 pin.

    So you may not have any issues, just want to be sure you looked at the whole picture and had them setup in the manner you intended.


    Thanks for that. 🙂


    I'm following the instructions for the microsquirt. It uses the ground to switch the fuel pump. But I'll keep that in mind. 

  13. Had a big day in the shed today. I was keen on getting all the plugs on the look. At the same time, I was terrified of pinning plugs. I've never pinned plugs til today, so I was very hesitant about getting it wrong. So I started with an EV1. I had another 4 spares, so I figured I could easily replace one if I needed to.




    Of course, ten minutes later, I needed to de-pin it. I couldn't find any tools locally so I had to make some out of fencing wire.




    I've had a good day and I got all the plugs on the loom.




    I did have some dramas with the oil temp/pres sensor connector. I struggled to unlock it. In the end, I discovered there's a lock that slides across. 




    Having got all the wires seated, I can't get it to lock now. I don't know what the issue is, so I'm going to leave it overnight and come back to it later. It's this sensor...


    145PSI (10Bar) Bosch Pressure & Temperature Sensor - Raceworks


    Tonight, I found this guy hiding in my bin...





    • Like 2
  14. The big challenge will be tuning it well. A bad tune is what kills turbo engines. Depending on what the octane rating is, LPG might be better. However, you still need someone who can tune the mixtures and make sure they're right.


    Personally, I'd choose a motor that is more common in your country.

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