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Everything posted by TomServo

  1. Well, it's done I guess, needs some small things and new tires but it runs and drives without blowing up. How bout an after shot, Nissan calls the color Thunder Black so I'm naming it Black Thunder!
  2. Solved! (I think . . ) Posting this for anyone having a similar issue: timing was way off, like 30 degrees btdc. I rotated the distributor counter clockwise to the limit and the knocking noise subsided, but it was still at like 20 degrees. Next, I set to tdc and took out the distributor. The oil pump/distributor drive spindle was at the correct* 11:25 position. However, I read other people had the same issue and solved it by setting the spindle to the 12:30 position. I am now easily able to set the timing to the spec 3 degrees btdc. The knock is pretty much eliminated, and the oil pressure is reading in the normal range (not sure how those two are related). Point is, everything I read told me to set the spindle to 11:25 but there was no way to get the timing correct. *12:30 with the small lobe forward worked, at least for me.
  3. So, now that the truck is running I have discovered new problems. First, the oil pressure seems way too high. It's idling around 60psi and bounces up to 90 when driving down the street. This is accompanied by a terrible knocking sound like things aren't getting oiled. Guh . . . nothing good about it. Any ideas where I should start?
  4. If it was a snake it would have bit me! Feel like a doofus for not solving it sooner but whatever. Previously, I had been attempting to jump the starter always with the key in the on position. This time, with the key out and the ignition wire unplugged from the starter, I jumped the power directly from the battery and bingo, it turns over! Performed the same test with the key turned to start and the starter does nothing. So, clearly something with ignition wiring. Got too dark out to explore further but I should be able to track it down now that I know where the issue is. Gosh darn, thanks for all the help everyone. I'll report back once I have it running correctly!
  5. Tried this with no change. I thought for sure it would help too. And no, thankfully the plugs weren't smashed haha! I'll keep poking at it, I feel like the answer is so simple I'm just missing it.
  6. Ok, pulled the plugs and turned by hand no problem. Cranked it over and it sounds a little funny, not your typical starter sound, but did turn over easily. Put the intake plugs back in and tested the open exhaust side for compression, not sure that's how you do it but that's what I did. All tested exactly 151psi. And notably the engine cranked over on each test. So, no plugs and it cranks, what's with that?
  7. I'm totally flummoxed. It still won't turn over! I can hear it really struggling to push the flywheel. So far, I have: Checked and cleaned the grounds. Removed and tested the new starter (it works). Jumped the starter solenoid with it in the truck (struggles the same as when using the key). Jumped the ignition switch (same as above) Replaced the battery (no change). Quadruple checked it's in neutral (both 2wd and 4wd levers) and hand rotated the drive shaft. Pushed the flywheel with a screwdriver to make sure it turns freely. Turned the crank pulley with a wrench to make sure it turns freely. Loosened the belts to make sure they weren't creating too much drag. WHAT ELSE ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH WOULD KEEP IT FROM TURNING OVER?!?!
  8. Ok, I'll give that a try tomorrow. So, what would it mean if I jump and it does start? Bad solenoid?
  9. I did that with the old one to confirm it was no good. Should I take out the new one and do the same?
  10. Yes, was able to turn over with a wrench like normal.
  11. Was a day of successes and failures: I finally got everything back together, but it wouldn't turn over. Like dead. So, I replaced the battery with another known good one. Could hear the starter really struggling to turn over, but couldn't. So, I replaced the starter. Still nothing! All I hear is the starter trying really hard but can't even turn over once. I took all the grounds off and cleaned them. No change. Any suggestions where to go next? Btw, in all the tries it did magically start just once, like randomly and suddenly, and it ran great! But when I turned it off I couldn't get it to start again. Just nothing!
  12. Which notch number is at the top of the cam gear?
  13. Ok, need more advice time: I got the pump installed and I think the spindle is oriented correctly at 11:25 with the small side facing the front. I'm less sure about the orientation of the distributor. I took off the cap but I'm not familiar with this type of rotor. Is it 180 degrees off? Do I even have the distributor oriented correctly? I tried asking my helper here but we couldn't find it in any of her books.
  14. Does anyone know the orientation of the oil pump/distributor drive gear? One side has a chamfer while the other is flat, and I don't trust that the original one was oriented correctly.
  15. Thank you! To elaborate on this, when I got the head from the machine shop all the valves were left loose and I was concerned about installing it on the block that way. Because the the cam is bolted directly to the head, it is possible to preset the valve clearance. Using a block of wood under each end of the head (to allow for valve clearance) the valves can be cold set to .021" on the intake side and .024" on the exhaust side. Of course, they need to be readjusted when the head is installed and warm, but I think this will provide a better baseline for installation.
  16. Perfect, thanks! The more I thought about it I realized a combo like this makes the most sense: instal head no torque then timing cover. Thanks again!
  17. Thanks Wayno! Got the oil pump/distributor drive gear off, the oil slinger chipped the splines all the way around. Thankfully, most of the chipped metal was held in place, but still some probably escaped into the oil. Not sure this one will work so I decided to buy a replacement off ebay just to be safe.
  18. A couple quick questions that have come up in my head before even starting: Since the rocker arm assembly is attached to the head, should I (is it even possible to) set the lash prior to installing it on the block? I noticed the open valves extend past the surface of the head. Maybe that's normal. Also, should I install the head or timing cover first? It seems easier to install the timing chain with the head on but then I worry about the head shim and gasket when installing the cover. Any recommendations?
  19. For continuity, I decided I should just keep going on this thread to really see if this was worth it! One of the issues that almost killed the trade is that the original head was found to be cracked. The machine shop located another head but the owner did not want to cover the additional cost. So, whatever I obviously decided to go ahead with it and picked up the head today. I also went through the paper trail which dates all the way back to its purchase in 1985. It currently has 310,000 miles, with a rebuilt engine at 260k, rebuilt transmission at 280k, and a new clutch at 308k. In fact, pretty much everything has been replaced at least once along the way. Among other records I also found a note saying it was repainted in 2013. From what I can tell, the cab was and is factory black while the bed has been replaced with a red one and painted to match. Why that's not noted anywhere, when everything down to carb adjustments are dated is beyond me.
  20. Well, the question has been answered: the trade is good because the trade happened and everything that happens is good. Or something like that. Thanks again for everyone's input, I might create a new thread once I start putting it back together since I'll be needing your collective technical advice! First, this thing needs a wash!
  21. Quick update: been a busy weekend of not buying cars. I decided to do a little looking before trading for a broken truck. Friday I looked at a 720 here in town that "needs clutch work". Seller listed it as clean title, neglecting to mention it was actually totaled until I was there looking at it. Thanks . . . Next, I made plans to drive up the PDX to look at another 720 when a Toyota 4x4 came up locally for less than the 720. So, I scrapped the Portland trip only to have the yota nipped by someone else. Oh well. So, back to square one with the trade tentatively happening tomorrow. I question the wisdom of taking someone else's unfinished, possibly botched project but it's pretty low risk and could be fun, so whatever. I'll update you all again either way.
  22. Took lots of photos and this was one of them, looks like it's in there!
  23. Ok, thanks for the info. Now I'm wondering if the owner already tried to do the head job and perhaps put things together incorrectly. The timing chain might have made contact with the slinger, tearing it up. I really don't know but seems likely that pieces of it are now in the oil pan?
  24. Well, as quickly as it fell through it's back on, haha! Met up with truck owner to get another look at things and discuss some details. One thing that concerns me (of the many things concerning me) is twisted metal around the dizzy drive gear. Anyone know what the heck is going on there?
  25. Thanks everyone for the advice, the feedback has been extremely helpful. The trade hit some hiccups (as they often do) and is on hold indefinitely. I have some other irons in the fire, I'll check back in if any turn out to be Datsuns. Thanks again!
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