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TomServo

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  1. If it was a snake it would have bit me! Feel like a doofus for not solving it sooner but whatever. Previously, I had been attempting to jump the starter always with the key in the on position. This time, with the key out and the ignition wire unplugged from the starter, I jumped the power directly from the battery and bingo, it turns over! Performed the same test with the key turned to start and the starter does nothing. So, clearly something with ignition wiring. Got too dark out to explore further but I should be able to track it down now that I know where the issue is. Gosh darn, thanks for all the help everyone. I'll report back once I have it running correctly!
  2. Tried this with no change. I thought for sure it would help too. And no, thankfully the plugs weren't smashed haha! I'll keep poking at it, I feel like the answer is so simple I'm just missing it.
  3. Ok, pulled the plugs and turned by hand no problem. Cranked it over and it sounds a little funny, not your typical starter sound, but did turn over easily. Put the intake plugs back in and tested the open exhaust side for compression, not sure that's how you do it but that's what I did. All tested exactly 151psi. And notably the engine cranked over on each test. So, no plugs and it cranks, what's with that?
  4. I'm totally flummoxed. It still won't turn over! I can hear it really struggling to push the flywheel. So far, I have: Checked and cleaned the grounds. Removed and tested the new starter (it works). Jumped the starter solenoid with it in the truck (struggles the same as when using the key). Jumped the ignition switch (same as above) Replaced the battery (no change). Quadruple checked it's in neutral (both 2wd and 4wd levers) and hand rotated the drive shaft. Pushed the flywheel with a screwdriver to make sure it turns freely. Turned the crank pulley with a wrench to make sure it turns freely. Loosened the belts to make sure they weren't creating too much drag. WHAT ELSE ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH WOULD KEEP IT FROM TURNING OVER?!?!
  5. Ok, I'll give that a try tomorrow. So, what would it mean if I jump and it does start? Bad solenoid?
  6. I did that with the old one to confirm it was no good. Should I take out the new one and do the same?
  7. Yes, was able to turn over with a wrench like normal.
  8. Was a day of successes and failures: I finally got everything back together, but it wouldn't turn over. Like dead. So, I replaced the battery with another known good one. Could hear the starter really struggling to turn over, but couldn't. So, I replaced the starter. Still nothing! All I hear is the starter trying really hard but can't even turn over once. I took all the grounds off and cleaned them. No change. Any suggestions where to go next? Btw, in all the tries it did magically start just once, like randomly and suddenly, and it ran great! But when I turned it off I couldn't get it to start again. Just nothing!
  9. Which notch number is at the top of the cam gear?
  10. Ok, need more advice time: I got the pump installed and I think the spindle is oriented correctly at 11:25 with the small side facing the front. I'm less sure about the orientation of the distributor. I took off the cap but I'm not familiar with this type of rotor. Is it 180 degrees off? Do I even have the distributor oriented correctly? I tried asking my helper here but we couldn't find it in any of her books.
  11. Does anyone know the orientation of the oil pump/distributor drive gear? One side has a chamfer while the other is flat, and I don't trust that the original one was oriented correctly.
  12. Thank you! To elaborate on this, when I got the head from the machine shop all the valves were left loose and I was concerned about installing it on the block that way. Because the the cam is bolted directly to the head, it is possible to preset the valve clearance. Using a block of wood under each end of the head (to allow for valve clearance) the valves can be cold set to .021" on the intake side and .024" on the exhaust side. Of course, they need to be readjusted when the head is installed and warm, but I think this will provide a better baseline for installation.
  13. Perfect, thanks! The more I thought about it I realized a combo like this makes the most sense: instal head no torque then timing cover. Thanks again!
  14. Thanks Wayno! Got the oil pump/distributor drive gear off, the oil slinger chipped the splines all the way around. Thankfully, most of the chipped metal was held in place, but still some probably escaped into the oil. Not sure this one will work so I decided to buy a replacement off ebay just to be safe.
  15. A couple quick questions that have come up in my head before even starting: Since the rocker arm assembly is attached to the head, should I (is it even possible to) set the lash prior to installing it on the block? I noticed the open valves extend past the surface of the head. Maybe that's normal. Also, should I install the head or timing cover first? It seems easier to install the timing chain with the head on but then I worry about the head shim and gasket when installing the cover. Any recommendations?
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