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Everything posted by spddm0n

  1. I’m rebuilding a combination switch, swapping parts from a newer one into mine, since I couldn’t find a good used one that is compatible to my truck, but a lot of the components in the newer incompatible version swap right over. I want to re-grease the moving plastic parts, and some of the moving parts have electrical contacts as well. I’ve always wondered what grease is the correct grease to use when you need to “conduct” electricity and lube plastic mechanical parts. I was reading that I should not use silicon based grease for electrical contacts and I should use a h
  2. By the way, I finally found the page with the electrical diagrams for the headlights. Who would have thought they would be with the combination switch??!! 🙂
  3. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    Suck. Yeah, I remember those days. I had manual hubs for that reason. Good reason enough to swap these for manual at some point. 🙂 I
  4. These headlight "switches" are all combined in the combination switches with the wipers. I did end up using part of the headlight switch (the little box of electrical contacts) from the new combination switch, and swapped it over to the old one to replace the contacts that weren't working. I didn't swap the stalk itself, as it seemed to not want to be removed. I was in a bit of a hurry too, so I might revisit that at some point (the only reason I would do this though, is because all the white lettering on the old stalk is wearing out and the new one looks pretty). 🙂 Yeah, effec
  5. What I mean by Chinese is all the current replacement parts for nearly any vehicle that you buy at Autozone, Pep Boys, Advanced Auto, etc. like the one in the photo above. It's some American company, but producing it in China. My fuel pump looks factory, but I haven't removed it to check. It's still working. 🙂
  6. Thanks Charlie. That would be great. The fuel pump replays are the same for all Z24 applications produced 11/1982 and later. I did find one (chinese-made) in the salvage yard truck the other day, and the truck is up and running again, but I would love to know the resistor sizes if you get around to checking. Never know how long the new one will last. The newer ones are all printed circuits (obviously), and who knows how well the components will last. 🙂
  7. The truck I found in salvage is an '84. It was a 2WD version that did not have intermittent wipers (mine does), and the body of the entire unit had a different layout, so the clam shell plastic that surrounds the steering column won't align correctly. It did look like a good cleaning might work, but it could also use a bit of sandpaper on the contacts. I actually was able to remove the entire electrical contact assembly in the new unit and swap it into my old unit, refreshing just the headlight switch part of the unit, so it all worked out. By the way, the combination
  8. Well, I dug into the combination switch a bit more. There is definitely something wrong with the combination switch somewhere in it. When I turn the lights on, then push forward on the stalk, only the driver-side bright bulb comes on. Then, if I gently "tap" on the plastic body of the combination switch, the passenger-side bulb will light up. I can't isolate where the problem is in the switch, but it certainly does appear each headlight is getting a separate signal from the switch. I still can't find a wiring diagram for the system though. Even in the FSM. It's not showing the head ligh
  9. Hmmm...I went though all the bulb swapping etc. yesterday. The problem remains on the same side. The only thing that reproduced the behavior was flipping the stalk in the combination switch. I couldn’t find the wiring diagram in the FSM either, so I couldn’t verify how it was working. I imagined the head lights (together) would get the same signal from the combination switch, but I noticed the behavior being different. Perhaps something funky with the relay, depending on electrical load or something. I have another relay I can swap it with. I’ll try that.
  10. My headlights started having a problem recently, in which one of the high beam light bulbs wouldn't turn on, and then would randomly come on as I was flipping the settings on the combination switch (the stalk on steering column) between high beam, low beam, and flashing high beams. I determined the problem being in the combination switch. I went to the salvage yard yesterday and picked up a replacement (an '84 720 randomly showed up there recently, and rarely are these available near me). I was so excited to find one that looked like it had recently been replaced on the truck in
  11. $0.03 vs. cost of a new cheap Chinese version. 😉
  12. Excellent! I just uploaded more pics to the original post #1). Part number on mine is: 28545-89900. If you remove yours and open it up, be careful with the little screws on the back, they can strip easily. Once the cover is off, you lift out the black plastic base (shouldn't even need prying) and remove the circuit board. In order to remove the circuit board from the main body, flip the unit over and work on pressing down on the 6 metal spades that protrude through the main plastic body. They slide through nicely if you keep them moving down and through the body evenly. The s
  13. Yeah, I understand. I figure that some others may have removed their's in attempt to repair it, like in the magazine article, didn't have success getting it to work, and kept it (still haev it lying around or have pics). I would imagine they would be the same if the part number was the same. 🙂 I'm just hoping for a clear understanding of the size of the resistors. They should be easy to replace. 🙂 I'll upload a pic of the part number too.
  14. I thought I should probably start a new thread on this topic, rather than piggyback off another related thread. I'd like to repair the fuel pump replay (fuel pump control unit). I know there is a magazine article that talks about soldering a couple of the leads, where the solder begins to crack over time. I had a different failure. I burned out of the fuses on the board, and a second one looks like it's been overheated too. Has anyone ever taken there's apart to make this repair and have any pictures of it? Or, have one laying around that could tell me what the correct color b
  15. Or passenger doors, without door lock cylinders. WTF?!
  16. Ah, there is a distinction between oil pressure = NO pressure, and oil pressure = FAILURE. They probably account for the "failure" of the oil pressure sensor (open circuit) and keep the engine running; in the last line. They probably suggest that the engine will stop running in the event of an accident (3rd line). Who knows. I've questioned much of Nissan's logic in the past. 🙂
  17. Oh, ok. That table suggests there is NO fuel pump when there is NO oil pressure. That would be as expected I think.
  18. Hmmm...where in the FSM are you reading that? Which FSM do you have? I've found it annoying my 1985 FSM only states a lot of information in the EF & EC section, but only in the part of that section for Z24 for Canada. I just looked at the table in the section for Z24 for Canada (the US part says nothing about the fuel pump control). I calls the "relay" a Fuel Pump Control Unit. It says the fuel pump is not operating when there is "No" pressure. It says it IS operating when there is LOW pressure.
  19. I found the problem with my truck... Bad fuel pump relay. Has anyone ever opened up the relay? I blew a resistor out on the circuit board, and another one looks like it's been heated up a bit too. I saw the magazine article where they repaired the contacts on the bottom of the circuit board. I made that repair just in case too (I didn't look cracked under my magnifying glass). Does anybody know what size these resistors are? I can't tell, since the burned one is...well..burned up. 🙂
  20. Interesting...Wow. Yeah, what a headache that must have been to go through. Gremlins. Thanks for reporting back on the ultimate cause. That, in turn, really helps people in the future when searching out gremlins. 🙂 I'm getting into mine this afternoon. Fingers crossed...
  21. Wow! Reading this thread made my head hurt! I have some intermittent fuel issues all of a sudden. Looks like I'm about to visit a lot of these same systems. I hate it when there is a gremlin in the system. I had hoped to rid my truck of most of these by now, but I do know I've found some bad "connections" on other devices. These are now so old, sometimes it can be an intermittent off/on bad connection (after manipulating) a component during install procedure...even after a bench test. I found the windshield washer fluid reservoir pump was coming on randomly and when I inspected this, I
  22. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    I did some testing yesterday...It's super finicky! Three things are consistent.... {NOTE: I just figured out there is a lamp in the dash for the 4X4 system. It was burned out. No wonder I couldn't tell where the heck I was in the system}! 1. If I'm sitting with the vehicle running, transmission in neutral, in 2WD...when I move the 4X4 selector into 4WD Low (also using the clutch), and then all the way back to 4WD High, it engages 4WD High immediately and allows you to put it in gear (trans) and bewgin driving. Evident with the lamp in the dash too. 2. If I'm
  23. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    Ok. Is the 2:1 ratio the ration from 4WD Low to 4WD High, or 4WD Low to 2WD? I imagine the ratio from 2WD to 4WD High is not 1:1, correct?
  24. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    I did check the oil level. It's good. The shifter is also nice and tight. That is what is so weird. No noise coming from it either while in 4WD (when it is engaged in 4WD Low). I'll have to verify of the gear ratio is actually in Low when the shifter is in Low, and then what gears are being utilized when I put it 4WD High after it's been in Low. It might be staying in Low.
  25. spddm0n

    Engaging 4WD High

    Yep. That's the problem. It doesn't. 🙂 It will once I'm going back to 2WD from 4WD Low, and stop in 4WD High. I don't get it. 🙂 Something messed up in the xfer case I wonder??
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