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About Potmetalwelder

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  • Location
    Vacaville California
  • Cars
    69 2Door 510, 67 Nova SS Restomod.
  • Interests
    Potmetal Welding
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    Pot metal welder

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  1. Ah. Low temp tin/zinc based material. Have you tried it on potmetal? If so, wad flux required, recommended etc? James Ruther Pot Metal Welder 707-621-5052 James@potmetal.repair
  2. Bummer... What were you using for brazing rod?
  3. Brazing pot metal never works. You'll end up destroying the piece.
  4. Hey Wayno. A lot of platers will nolonger bothet with Potmetal parts. Because Good pot metal classic parts are becoming very scares amd and pretty much all that's left are parts with pits, broken etc. which are bug problems for chrome shops with regard to their method of repair (soft solder over copper). Bottom line, they just don't want to get involved. The dark spots are corroding metal (dead metal) those must be spot ground out and filled. And big holes, missing metal are an impossible task for platers. However that's not the case with welding. Pits, Holes, missing metal broken parts are no problem. Dead pot metal is simply replaced with clean pure zamac (pot metal) Maki ng the part(s) easily replatible. Anyhow, I hope this sheds some light on replating old pot metal..? Please feel free to contact me directly via DM, email, text message or a call at 7076215052. Regards, James Ruther
  5. Apologies brother. Ok. I'll try to post again here.
  6. Here's the Completed Tail-lamp Bezels if you'd like to see them. I would've posted them here, but the forum cms is blocking my Instagram links. Anyhow, if you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at any time.
  7. You're 100% spot-on brother!
  8. You can see the finished repair video on instagram as well. Thanks everyone!
  9. Hey guys & gals. I wanted to share a couple videos of a project that I did for our 510 board moderator, James. He had a set of #potmetal bluebird taillamp bezels that needed a little welding... Here's the pre-repair video: I will be starting on a few sets of Qtr glass latches as they tend to break often... Mine won't break. πŸ‘πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡²πŸ’ͺ
  10. Yeah, that sounds about right.
  11. ... I just had a closer look - rather than stainless, it looks like cheap plating which makes more since..
  12. It's probably 304 stainless which has a low nickel % and will somewhat rust depending on whether conditions.
  13. Thanks James. Very much appreciate the welcome. Btw, your tail-lamp bezels will done later today.,πŸ‘
  14. Potmetalwelder


    Brother, I'm sorry to hear that. But you spent way, way too much on the plating for those parts. A good chrome shop would have whipped those out with no problem. And if you have bubbles in the chrome, most likely they used muggyweld or some other low temp solder to fill. Wish I could have been here for you beforehand...
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