Jump to content

dat620_73

Members
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

28 OK

About dat620_73

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    modesto
  • Cars
    73 620
  • Interests
    datsuns

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Time Left: 1 day and 9 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I found a slider for my 73 so I took out my solid glass. I great shape. Lemme know

    $60.00

    Modesto, California - US

  2. Precision from O'Reilly's. $32.35 with tax.
  3. So here's the update. I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a new mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge stays steady at 4psi and the truck runs great again.
  4. Oh ok I'll get an oil filled gauge. Cool trucks fixed
  5. It's not oil filled, and after 2 hours of sitting the fuel pressure drops from 4 psi to 0. I could have sworn that when I first installed the gauge the needle was relatively stable. Today it started to act like I was letting the clutch out to fast and a complete loss of power at high rpm 3000-4000, almost like the brake is on. It's a 73 620, with a stock 1600, Weber carb, new fuel filter, plugs cap, rotor, wires, pertronix, 4 speed trans and 14" tires that's why I'm at such a high rpm. 3500 is about 55mph
  6. dat620_73

    Fuel pressure help

    I have a question about fuel pressure. I have a pressure gauge inline between the manual pump and Weber carb, at idle or acceleration the gauge needle fluctuates rapidly, so hard I can hear it bang off the needle rest! Is this normal, I don't think that is normal. Is this a sign the pump is going out?
  7. Thanks for the response, however I already replaced it. I used the string alignment method to get it close, now just got to get it to a shop so they can tell me something else needs replacing 😂
  8. Thanks. My steering wheel was way off before I did this (horn pad pointing at 1 & 7 to go straight) I read one of your other posts about the idler arm causing a lot of off center concerns. I hope all this fixes it!!
  9. So I'm replacing the front end of my '73. No damage just old and worn out. I've replaced both outer tie rods, idler, and center link. Can't find a pitman arm, and from what I understand replacing the whole steering box is the only way to get the pitman. Any how while I wait to get a pickle fork for the driver outer tie rod; is there a baseline measurement between the idler and pitman that will get the toe close to straight?
  10. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    I found some of your previous posts where you talked about the ballast, coils, points and how they all worked. It helped out greatly. I was able to get it wired correctly, and figure out how to get the coil to fire. Now it runs smoother than ever but still after driving for a few minutes it bogs almost dies, then catches itself and runs like a raped ape. As near as I can tell the points are not staying where they're adjusted to. So it's time to pull the trigger on a pertronix. Where is the best place/price? And I'm sure you have helped someone install them. Yup guys have been amazing. Thanks so much for the help.
  11. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    I replaced the pcv hose and valve. Verify no vacuum leaks. I think it's the coil. I'm able to touch the metal shaft of the screwdriver that I put into the coil wire while my wife cranks the engine over. As a kid I remember that being on of the best shocks I've ever had. I went and got an Accel super stock coil plugged it in and still hardly a shock. My power probe says I'm getting 10.9 volts to the coil. Sooo
  12. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    Ok so there's a large diameter hose that runs from between the exhaust manifold 3 and 4 ports up to what looks like a pcv valve in the bottom of the intake manifold. If I take that hose off it will run smooth as silk for about 3-5 minutes and then shut off, just like someone turned the key.
  13. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    There was a backfire, I attributed to the extended crank then starting. As far as what's been replaced. Battery, battery cables, NGK spark plugs, single point distributor (so I can use a pertronix later) fuel filter, carb, clutch, 3 u-joints, center support bearing, engine oil, gear oil, all shoes, all wheel cylinders, front wheel bearings, brake fluid, 2" exhaust from flange to a 40 series flowmaster. The is a video of it running before all this happened on my Instagram bulletside73
  14. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    I don't know if this is normal, but when I look down at the carb I can see fuel in the float bowl. When I cycle the throttle cable there is a steady stream of fuel that sprays into the carb. Should I see fuel in the float area of the carb?
  15. dat620_73

    Running poorly

    I'm starting to wonder if it's a spark issue. It will not stay running at all now. While I'm able to keep it running by feathering the throttle cable, I had the timing light on it to verify timing for a fourth time and my light would stop flashing then the engine would stumbling. I also noticed a random clicking sound from the newly installed voltage regulator.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.